micro/acan instant death
- Thread starter ServantSoldier
- Start date
Reefer07
New member
I just finished dipping my two aussie frags so we will see how they make out in a few days.
What is funny is it is only my two aussies which happen to be the nicest ><
My indo and my 20 polyp micro colony are doing great still along with everything else.
As I said all my other corals are find so it just boggles my mind and frustrates me. One of the frags was starting to attach to the rock I had it in and stuff so I am just bumming now.
What is funny is it is only my two aussies which happen to be the nicest ><
My indo and my 20 polyp micro colony are doing great still along with everything else.
As I said all my other corals are find so it just boggles my mind and frustrates me. One of the frags was starting to attach to the rock I had it in and stuff so I am just bumming now.
otrlynn
Active member
How do you reccomend getting them out? My two have popped every single bubble/vesicle on my ricordea. I need to get them out NOW! [/QUOTE]
I would think they would be fairly easy to catch, mine are all over my hand when I put my hand in the tank. They are soooo attracted to food, I think the inverted bottle trap baited with a lump of clam or something smelly would work. I think mine would walk into a net to get food.
I would think they would be fairly easy to catch, mine are all over my hand when I put my hand in the tank. They are soooo attracted to food, I think the inverted bottle trap baited with a lump of clam or something smelly would work. I think mine would walk into a net to get food.
nUgZ
New member
Here's a great article for anyone that's never read it concerning classifications like SPS and LPS.
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-03/cj/index.php
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-03/cj/index.php
JenDub
In Memoriam
Wrote this up in another thread but it may be helpful for you as well: micros are collected in similar conditions as the Aussies
IMO- this issue (Aussie acan sudden death) can be attributed to:
1) Low Magnesium
2) High lighting
3) High tank temp
4) Die off within the rock of sponges/worms etc.
Keep in mind the AU lords come out of water that is relatively shallow and nearshore. The water has been described by my divers as green/brown out conditions with less than 3 feet of visibility at times. This means the light penetration is very low; they recommend a 150w MH 20k over a 4X4' tank!
Also the water in these areas gets down to 16 degrees C in winter and is much cooler than we keep our reef tanks on a day to day basis (68-72 degrees).
Any time the magnesium levels dip to/below 1300 lps react adversely, the damage may not be readily apparent until the coral has struggled for weeks and finally collapses. Once the die-off starts it almost never stops; think of this as dieing from malnutrition.
On some largers rocks or those with a lot of substrate attached under the coral (for expamle we has a basketball sized micor colony that did this) there can be boring sponge that dies in transit and taints the rock. The toxins soon seep up to the underside of the colony and die off occurs.
Whatever the parameter(s) that are out of wack or the combination of several parameters being off the cure is always the same; frag it as soon as you notice the die off. We typically apply lugol's at full strength to the dieing/white area (while out of water) and then leave the entire piece to saok in some tank water for 5-10 minutes. Next the dieing area needs to be fragged; be sure to cut a good 1/4" or so in the healthy flesh to ensure you remove all of the affected tissue. Next; reapply a new batch of dilluted lugol's to the freshly cut area and allow to saok for 5 minutes and place back into the tank.
This is the only treatment we have had luck with and if you move quickly it works 90% of the time.
Good luck!
IMO- this issue (Aussie acan sudden death) can be attributed to:
1) Low Magnesium
2) High lighting
3) High tank temp
4) Die off within the rock of sponges/worms etc.
Keep in mind the AU lords come out of water that is relatively shallow and nearshore. The water has been described by my divers as green/brown out conditions with less than 3 feet of visibility at times. This means the light penetration is very low; they recommend a 150w MH 20k over a 4X4' tank!
Also the water in these areas gets down to 16 degrees C in winter and is much cooler than we keep our reef tanks on a day to day basis (68-72 degrees).
Any time the magnesium levels dip to/below 1300 lps react adversely, the damage may not be readily apparent until the coral has struggled for weeks and finally collapses. Once the die-off starts it almost never stops; think of this as dieing from malnutrition.
On some largers rocks or those with a lot of substrate attached under the coral (for expamle we has a basketball sized micor colony that did this) there can be boring sponge that dies in transit and taints the rock. The toxins soon seep up to the underside of the colony and die off occurs.
Whatever the parameter(s) that are out of wack or the combination of several parameters being off the cure is always the same; frag it as soon as you notice the die off. We typically apply lugol's at full strength to the dieing/white area (while out of water) and then leave the entire piece to saok in some tank water for 5-10 minutes. Next the dieing area needs to be fragged; be sure to cut a good 1/4" or so in the healthy flesh to ensure you remove all of the affected tissue. Next; reapply a new batch of dilluted lugol's to the freshly cut area and allow to saok for 5 minutes and place back into the tank.
This is the only treatment we have had luck with and if you move quickly it works 90% of the time.
Good luck!
