theatrus
100-mile-commuter
http://www.clippard.com/part/EV-2-12-H
12V, normally closed two port 25psi standard seals with the wire leads
12V, normally closed two port 25psi standard seals with the wire leads
Micro solenoids for CO2 regulators
- Thread starter theatrus
- Start date
theatrus
100-mile-commuter
I run a CO2 system through a diffuser in a (not very good 
) planted tank - pretty sure I'm at 10psi. Ca reactor is set to 12 psi.
The good news is the 50 and 105psi versions are the same price - I wonder if the springiness of the spider and possible noise is the only difference? Or is there any difference except testing?
) planted tank - pretty sure I'm at 10psi. Ca reactor is set to 12 psi. The good news is the 50 and 105psi versions are the same price - I wonder if the springiness of the spider and possible noise is the only difference? Or is there any difference except testing?
oreo57
Well-known member
I run a CO2 system through a diffuser in a (not very good
The good news is the 50 and 105psi versions are the same price - I wonder if the springiness of the spider and possible noise is the only difference? Or is there any difference except testing?
no idea..
Only mentioned it as an FYI..@ 50lbs just adds versatility..
macdaddynick1
Member
I think 50 psi might not be necessary since running it at a higher psi than 10-15 makes the bubble size too big for our application. Big bubbles will make it hard to finetune, although getting a higher rated solenoid might be good to have just in case.
macdaddynick1
Member
Any updates?
macdaddynick1
Member
Sneak peak: yes it does work. Basic skills with 555 timers confirmed
More details later
So I was hoping I would be able to build one for myself, after looking at this. I am realizing this might be out of my league. However, I love learning how things are made, so I am definitely following.
also how does one build a circuit board ?ravi197699
Member
Where did you get that board, I looked for 555 timer and they are 0 - 9999 seconds delay timers, I am not sure if they are going to work..
oreo57
Well-known member
Only used as an interval timer not an on/off period timer..
Like on/off once per second. so on/off and delay.
Think of it as PWM for gas..
Will (actually does as it is already in a production unit) work fine.
theMerchant
New member
Good info, i would buy your kit.
Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk
macdaddynick1
Member
I think he said OSHpark website
theatrus
100-mile-commuter
Those board are made at OSHPark because its great for low volume and the quality is really high. However, its expensive if you really only want one board.
https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/kJ0Pkzaz
I'll upload the Gerber and Drill files (the "manufacturing output" files needed to make the board) if you want to send them somewhere - usually I put these under a CERN Open Hardware License.
That said, I have two left of the OSHPark boards, yours for the price of postage
The board is absolutely not essential, you can build the circuit easily with a soldering iron and a vero-board (or other similar prototype board) since its all through-hole parts. The board does make it fool proof (just load components, apply soldering iron). If there is enough interest, the cheaper path is to get a medium size lot from one of the Asian suppliers (Elecrow, PCBWay, DirtyPCBs, etc) which will give you a bunch for $0.50-$2 a board.
I'm going to put up a BOM (bill of materials) as well in a bit. I made some tweaks in component values (R4 is now a 2.2k resistor and not a wire/ 0 ohm). The on-time of the pulse is about 30ms, and I'm going to do some experiments with actual CO2 flowing to see if I should change it.
https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/kJ0Pkzaz
I'll upload the Gerber and Drill files (the "manufacturing output" files needed to make the board) if you want to send them somewhere - usually I put these under a CERN Open Hardware License.
That said, I have two left of the OSHPark boards, yours for the price of postage
The board is absolutely not essential, you can build the circuit easily with a soldering iron and a vero-board (or other similar prototype board) since its all through-hole parts. The board does make it fool proof (just load components, apply soldering iron). If there is enough interest, the cheaper path is to get a medium size lot from one of the Asian suppliers (Elecrow, PCBWay, DirtyPCBs, etc) which will give you a bunch for $0.50-$2 a board.
I'm going to put up a BOM (bill of materials) as well in a bit. I made some tweaks in component values (R4 is now a 2.2k resistor and not a wire/ 0 ohm). The on-time of the pulse is about 30ms, and I'm going to do some experiments with actual CO2 flowing to see if I should change it.
theatrus
100-mile-commuter
The BOM as actual parts:
https://octopart.com/bom-tool/KsaVM9dL
Most of these parts are common "part kit" parts - if you have stuff laying around, the values used are very common (2.2K resistor, 220 ohm resistor, 10k linear pot, red LED, 220uF capacitors, 0.1uF capacitor, 555 timer). The exact brand here is not essential by any means.
I'd personally just grab the set from Mouser/Digikey, since the cost of shipping a single part will outweigh the actual order price. I have parts laying about (except power jacks, thought I had a stash but ran out).
https://octopart.com/bom-tool/KsaVM9dL
Most of these parts are common "part kit" parts - if you have stuff laying around, the values used are very common (2.2K resistor, 220 ohm resistor, 10k linear pot, red LED, 220uF capacitors, 0.1uF capacitor, 555 timer). The exact brand here is not essential by any means.
I'd personally just grab the set from Mouser/Digikey, since the cost of shipping a single part will outweigh the actual order price. I have parts laying about (except power jacks, thought I had a stash but ran out).
theatrus
100-mile-commuter
For this BOM, yes. The on time can be adjusted by changing the value of R1, or adding a second pot in parallel with it (or just using the pot, etc). I'm going to experiment a bit and see how low R1 can go realistically with the valve in place.
R4 was a zero ohm since it was in series with the off-time pot. But an off-time of zero isn't particularly useful, and you might want a longer off time in some scenarios, hence I'm recommending also loading a 2.2k resistor there.
theatrus
100-mile-commuter
In the realm of "things I messed up"
- R1 is specified as a 1/4W resistor. It really needs to be 1/2W or higher. I think a common 1W will fit - need to confirm. There is about a 50mA draw over this, and at 12V... I updated the BOM and will do a fit check.
- R4 should remain as a 0-ohm wire jumper, since its on the wrong side of the diode. Instead, add a 2.2k resistor in series with the pot (free wire). If I make a new board I'll fix this.
- R1 is specified as a 1/4W resistor. It really needs to be 1/2W or higher. I think a common 1W will fit - need to confirm. There is about a 50mA draw over this, and at 12V... I updated the BOM and will do a fit check.
- R4 should remain as a 0-ohm wire jumper, since its on the wrong side of the diode. Instead, add a 2.2k resistor in series with the pot (free wire). If I make a new board I'll fix this.
