Microfood culture: phytoplanktons, Rotifers, ciliates, Artemia, and copepods

When my copepod culture tank's green water starts to clear out, a lot of bubbles form on the top of the water. These bubbles have a greenish tint and cover the whole surface of the water. Is this normal or bad?
 
Correct me if I'm wrong, but bubbles at the surface could be Ammonia? I would check the levels if I were you.
 
We've been raising copepods in a tank with a small powerhead. I've been wondering if copepods can be damaged by any powerheads of any pressure levels. Does anyone know?
 
Correct me if I'm wrong, but bubbles at the surface could be Ammonia? I would check the levels if I were you.

It's typically organic wastes that cause the bubbles, not the ammonia. Ammonia itself won't contribute to bubble formation, but having other wastes built up the bubbling point is usually a good indicator that the ammonia has also built up alongside those ;)

We've been raising copepods in a tank with a small powerhead. I've been wondering if copepods can be damaged by any powerheads of any pressure levels. Does anyone know?

The water flow doesn't damage them, however, the impeller itself can chop up a small percentage of the copepods.
 
I finally figured it out! I have been having success for a little over a month now so I thought that I would show what I am doing in a graphic and further explain some of the details. I originally posted a version of this in the DIY section but I thought that this is a better place for the project.

crittertowerflow.jpg


(On top left, ATS with 130G main tank below it. Center, critter tower. Right top, peristaltic pump with 55G sump below it.)

I want to grow different kinds of critters in my garage. Right now. I and trying to grow rotifers.

I bought a 6 foot acrylic tube, for another purpose, that is 6 inches in diameter. I also bought a funnel from Grangers for about 3 bucks and after six tries I figured out how to affix it into the end of the tube. It was made of a plastic that doesn't lend itself to being glued but it was the right size and shape. I expect that the solids will settle to the bottom and go out to the main tank where it can be processed.

I attached a set of reducers and connectors to the bottom of the funnel that takes a ¼ inch tube. Since the tower is taller than the main tank, I plan to let the water from the tower, drain back to the show tank using gravity.

I ran the tube from the funnel, up to the desired water line in the tower before letting it descend to the tank. Hk855 suggested that I add a "T" connector at the high point of the tube to allow air to get into the line so that the siphon can not empty the tower if the tube falls to the ground or something like that. That will allow for this point to be a spillway for the water. I put a filter on the tower's inlet line to keep larger critter from getting into the rotifer tower. The pump lifts the water up and over the lip of the tower.

When I pump water into the top of the tower, the same amount comes out of the bottom, up and over the spill way, on its way to the tank, from the garage where the reactor is. If I change out 2 to 2 ½ gallons, I hope that the water quality will stay within acceptable limits. I plan to split it up into 8 or more 1/4 gallon, one minute periods, throughout the day and night with that peristaltic pump and a timer.

I won't have to turn off the skimmer at feeding times because I use an algae scrubber instead so that food will stay suspended in the water column longer. The pump will chop up some of the plankton but I can't do much about that right now. I have designed a high volume non-traumatic pump but that will have to wait for a while.

I have been able to grow the rotifers in the tower using liquid food to get started at the suggestion of a friend but the food is dead just like the powder so it will fowl. That means that the water changes are important. As I said earlier, I have tried using powders three times and they crashed quickly. I think that this success is a result of my cutting back on the food. As I get the tower to work with liquid food, I will try to see how much I can supplant with powders. My tank already handles more food than what I plan to use for culturing.

RotiferDensity.jpg


P.S. I just talked to someone at Reed Maricuture and he said that I should turn up the air flow quite a bit. Additionally, I had already planned to do this to finish up an almost hands free system but he felt that it was important that I implement continues feeding with a peristaltic pump. This should greatly increase the density of the culture.

I would love to have feed back on my wacky ideas. I hope that I can grow other forms of critters in more towers with basically the same method.
 
20 L culture bottles

20 L culture bottles

I used the five gallon water dispenser bottles for culturing green water, artemia and rotifers,

cut the bottoms off, smooth the edges, silicon into the necks a food safe tap.

Build a rack to stand the inverted bottles, I used pine uprights, with long board in between with holes for the bottle necks and the bottles rested on their shoulders, you can either string a light 'bungee' type cord to hold all the bottles straight or each one individually.

Illumination can be overhead and from the back, I used 4 lamp Flo. fixtures, one overhead and one from the rear on its side. Gives a LOT of light.

A rack of 5-6 of these works very well. Above each bottle is an airline with a air hose down into the neck of the bottle with an airstone.

When harvesting the culture through the tap just take the airstone out of the culture for 5-10mins ddepending on what the culture is. You can then draw off as much as you want, I used a large measuring cup. Pour the fluid into a seine filter and then rinse the filter into fresh water, pour it into your feeding culture or use a baster. Return the drained water to the cultures or replace with fresh solution.

These will raise a LOT of phyto, rotifers, copepods, and artemia.Put the pods into the darker shaded ones, or put some paper around them or just leave them.

I'd like to take credit for these but saw them at Scripps a long long time ago. You can tweak them for whatever species you want to rear.
 
cultures

cultures

Not really, growing artemia out takes space as does phyto for them, five gal cultures isnt all that huge, nor is five gallon rot cultures, gallon jars etc I expect are good for pods but growing broods can use a lot of artemia and rots.
 
I can never get a thick amount of rods to live, i have them in a 10 gallon bucket and just an air line. is there any thing im doing wrong? and i feed them phyto 2 times a day..
 
How strong is the aeration? Should be just a very light trickle, just barely enough to circulate water without making lots of bubbles to splash the rots out of culture. What kind of phyto are you feeding? How dense (cloudy) does the water get when you feed phyto, and are you waiting till the rot culture water clears up before adding that second feeding?
 
I have a light aeration in the bucket, and im feeding them pyto i got from a petstore they made. Its very green and very tick, and the water never seems to clear up seems like their isnt enough to clear the water.
 
How much of the phyto are you putting in? Should just be enough to lightly tint the water. Also, do you know what type of phyto the pet shop is selling you?
 
Sounds like one of the concentrates like the stuff from Reed's. Probably 6 drops is more than plenty for the whole day...maybe try 3 drops in the morning and another 3 at the end of the day.

Myself, I prefer using live phyto. Any excess stays alive till it's eaten, as opposed to the dead stuff that will drop out of suspension and rot. While those concentrates can work well, they are touchy when it comes to feed amounts...less is more ;)
 
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