Microfood culture: phytoplanktons, Rotifers, ciliates, Artemia, and copepods
- Thread starter FMarini
- Start date
atticus:
reedmariculture is selling mysis shrimp and you can start them at home using the condiution i describe in last months Breedersnet (http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/sept2003/breeder.htm), the problem w/ using mysids as food is primarily, time, and costs. I say time becuz the reproductive cycle for these critters is much slower then we are used to (say in regards to rotifers, BBS etc), so patience is a virture here, espcially if you want a constant supply of juvieniles for a food source. Cost of course is always a factor and a fair number of adults can be more expensive than a rotifer starter pack, lets say. However reeds product is cost effective (as you do get alot of adult mysids) and is prolly a very good producxt based on their other items
frank
reedmariculture is selling mysis shrimp and you can start them at home using the condiution i describe in last months Breedersnet (http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/sept2003/breeder.htm), the problem w/ using mysids as food is primarily, time, and costs. I say time becuz the reproductive cycle for these critters is much slower then we are used to (say in regards to rotifers, BBS etc), so patience is a virture here, espcially if you want a constant supply of juvieniles for a food source. Cost of course is always a factor and a fair number of adults can be more expensive than a rotifer starter pack, lets say. However reeds product is cost effective (as you do get alot of adult mysids) and is prolly a very good producxt based on their other items
frank
Last edited:
Paul B
Premium Member
I think you need to add all kinds of natural plankton to have a successful tank. I know most people do not live near a beach but I just came back from a muddy beach In New York to collect some food at low tide. Here the tide goes down about 8' and the beach is full of rocks. Under the rocks are loaded with plankton, amphipods, copepods, shrimp, worms and all sorts of food. I swirl these rocks in a bucket then get rid of most of the mud and dump the entire thing (except for the crabs) in my reef. I have been doing this as long as I have a reef and I never had any problems, disease or otherwise. I think this stuff should be collected and sold. It's not like it is endangered or anything.
Paul B
Premium Member
I think you need to add all kinds of natural plankton to have a successful tank. I know most people do not live near a beach but I just came back from a muddy beach In New York to collect some food at low tide. Here the tide goes down about 8' and the beach is full of rocks. Under the rocks are loaded with plankton, amphipods, copepods, shrimp, worms and all sorts of food. I swirl these rocks in a bucket then get rid of most of the mud and dump the entire thing (except for the crabs) in my reef. I have been doing this as long as I have a reef and I never had any problems, disease or otherwise. I think this stuff should be collected and sold. It's not like it is endangered or anything.
i have two breeding pairs of clowns and would like to try to raise them. i have not been having much success. i now have rotifers and phyto, but i still have very little success. i have only one baby clarkii clown left. i am using 10 gallon tanks with the water from the breeder tank. changing 50 % weekly plus small changes. the water seems fine, but the babies keep dying. if anyone has ideas let me know please buick48@juno.com
Atticus
New member
If you want to start your own thread and give us a bit more information we will be able to better help you. We will need to know age of fry at die off, water parameters, signs and symptoms and anything else you find different than what you have researched already.buick48 said:
The Escaped Ape
In The Canopy
Could the moderators sticky this thread?
The Escaped Ape
In The Canopy
Whoops. Glad everyone agrees with me though (ahem).
)
Becuz DT is now a 3 phytoplankton mix (it used to be a monoculture), it will be difficult to culture all three phytos.
However, if you use a standard culture mix, you will preferentially grow out nanno (N occultus). While its not a bad thing, its actually one of the better and easier to grow phytos. The reason DTs is now a mix is becuz its contains 3 varied phytos all have different HUFA profiles and together they make the mix much higher in nutritional value
However, if you use a standard culture mix, you will preferentially grow out nanno (N occultus). While its not a bad thing, its actually one of the better and easier to grow phytos. The reason DTs is now a mix is becuz its contains 3 varied phytos all have different HUFA profiles and together they make the mix much higher in nutritional value
Atticus
New member
AquaNight said:
IMO it doesn't really matter how long it takes for them to foul because you truely do not know what you have grown. This method may be ok for reef tank additions, but I need to know what I am feeding my rotifers for my baby clowns and bangaii so I can ensure they are getting the proper levels of nutrients.
As far as shelf life goes nanno is useless way before it dies. As it sits in storage it will slowly use its stored nutrients to maintain its own life thus leaving an empty cell with little or no nutrient value. With homegrown phyto in a clear refridgerated container you should use it up within 2-3 weeks. It is also necissary to shake the bottles at least once every couple days to resuspend the cells.
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