Midnight Clownfish getting ICH!!

trini305

New member
Started seeing little white dots over the body of the pair of Midnights' earlier; picked up some KICK-ICH at the LFS. I have another pair of Platinum Clownfish that are always around them. None of the other tank mates including the Platinums' are showing signs of ICH. Anyone know if KICK-ICH is the best solution , or if there is a better way of dealing with it?
 

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I personally wouldn't use any ick treatment in the display tank --- either won't work or will cause issues.

IMO, there are two options

1) Reduce stress, leave in the tank, feed well, and hope for the best.

2) Remove ALL fish to a properly sized/set QT tank, and treat with a proper medication or run hypo for 8 weeks -- all the while leaving the main tank fishless.
 
if i go with your option 1(Toddrtex) , do you think my other tank mates will get ICH? its pretty strange to me also that they got it before my yellow tang
 
Do you think ORA sold it to me with ICK? They have been in my tank about a week now , and i have never seen ICK on any of the other tank mates
 
if i go with your option 1(Toddrtex) , do you think my other tank mates will get ICH? its pretty strange to me also that they got it before my yellow tang

Do you think ORA sold it to me with ICK? They have been in my tank about a week now , and i have never seen ICK on any of the other tank mates

They just might have it already, and could have been where the current "sick" fish got it from. Just because the other fish aren't showing any signs doesn't mean they aren't "carrying" the ick parasite on them.

Should note, it has been a long time since I have had to deal with ick (( about 10 years now, knock on wood )), so take what I say with a grain of salt -- pun intended. The last time I had it, the fish just had a few spots, and after reducing stress it cleared up.
 
To be safe, I would not risk having ich on both midnight and platinum, unlike the midnight, due to the platinum's color it does make it very hard to detect ich (actually almost impossible to detect velvet - and have a chance to save the fish). I would actually treat them in QT with cupramine.
 
Now one of my Hawaiian wrasp have little white dots starting to appear ; does anyone know know a better or easier way of dealing with ICK?
 
Now one of my Hawaiian wrasp have little white dots starting to appear ; does anyone know know a better or easier way of dealing with ICK?

If you are not willing to treat them in QT, then your best bet is to buy a strong UV

I have never seen a 100% effective reefsafe treatment despite what all the manufacturers claim.
 
how do the fish eat?
my coral beauty got ich and i took tods approach because he seemed real healthy( other than the fact he had ich), fat, and ate a lot
 
I had that problem and solved it very quickly with an increase of 2 degrees in the temperature and a powerfull UV (the UV was largely oversized and heated the tank too much by accident, which helped)
 
do not use an ich treatment in your display tank..will kill your coral.. and contaminate your live rock.. if you wanna do any kind of copper treatment set up a QT tank
 
I had that problem and solved it very quickly with an increase of 2 degrees in the temperature and a powerfull UV (the UV was largely oversized and heated the tank too much by accident, which helped)
Temperature doesnt do anything to the ich. The UV wouldnt help much either. Their would be far to much free floating to matter.
 
Proper nutrition has always helped me out, I use to run a UV but now that I dont get ich anymore I dont run it. Kick Ich has never done what it was suppose to. I say just let it go away by itself. Soemthing is stressing the fish for the fish to get it...find your stressor and remove it
 
sounds like they were healthy and got throught it
AMD is right, temp and lights do nothing!
keep a look out and make sure to always QT
 
I thought marine ich had a similar life cycle to fresh water ich.

In fresh water, a rise in temperature causes the parasites to let go of the fish to multiply - or pass through an UV and get killed.

As I said in my previous post, I had it twice in my nano tank and in both times, I connected a 36W UV and in a few hours it was gone.

I strongly believe that the temperature rise made the parasites think it was a great time to let go off the fish and breed.
 
I also heard that raising the temperature against MI is a rumor caused by FI.

It seems one has two choices. Do nothing and hope for the best or QT and treat with copper.
 
What size of tank do you currently have them in now?
Ick is going to be a constant concern with two pairs of clowns in the same tank if its not large enough to house both sets.
I would remove your least favorate pair for better long term results for the pair you dig the most.
 

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