Mikes 360 Gallon Reef

Ditto on sp6. I'm using one as my return pump and one going to my manifolds and then back to the tank. Btw it's an 860g tank
 
thanks for the compliments ya'll.

Regarding the SP6 I've decided to sell it (only had it for a little over a week). It's just way too much power for my sump design. Basically, the area in which the return pump is in doesn't stay filled with water because the pump just sucks it right out. The alternatives are adding a gate valve or using a weaker pump. I'm going to go with the weaker pump. I have enough flow in the tank after all.

Anyone want an almost new Sp6 for $180?
 
There are many compliments on the stand already, but I just can't help myself to echo it again. I have seen many beautiful stands in the stores, but rarely seen a home made one looking this nice.

So simple but yet so clean and beautiful !!!
 
Time for an update. I banged this canopy out last weekend and now have it setup over the tank.

Started off cutting up a 4' x 10' sheet of plywood into strips 12" wide to make up my sides.


Then, I cut all those strips into their appropriate lengths and biscuit'd, glued, and nailed them together.




Next, I added supports in the middle to keep things square and some trim on the bottom to act as a ledge so the canopy can rest on the tank.

 
I decided to hang the lights the same way I did last time. I added some more trim to the center supports so that I had a ledge for the lights to rest on (this will make sense later). I then slapped on some moldings on the top and bottom of the canopy to dress things up a bit.

After all that was done I used wood putty to fill in any holes/gaps.


After that I sanded it all down and put on the first coat of stain. Since I used a water based stain (darn EPA and CA) it tends to raise the grain on the wood so you end up having little hairs sticking up all over the place. Only solution is to LIGHTLY sand them down with a finer grit sandpaper ( I used 320) without taking your stain down and then throw on another coat.






Once you get the desired look you hit again VERY LIGHTLY with fine sandpaper (those little hairs will always come up between coats) and throw on some clear coat to seal it in.

 
I wish my phone didn't take such crap photos but this is the best I can do so far. Now it's time to make some doors!

 
Ok Ya'll, I need some advice.

My standard approach to reefkeeping was to keep things very simple. I would only dose Kalk via my ATO, use a skimmer, and fuge. However, my corals never really popped until I started using some GFO. So, I figure I have some phosphate issues at this point. My plan of attack was to build a DIY GFO reactor similar in function to the Spyglass. However, I know there's more then one way to skin this cat. I'm now considering adding vinegar to my kalk reactor, or dosing vodka, and possibly adding a CA reactor or dosing supplements. As you can see, I'm a bit confused on what works best.

Oh yeah, forgot to mention I have a decent ozone reactor that I was considering using again. One thing I noticed with this bigger tank is that the "aquarium smell" rises up to my 2nd floor so I really got to do something to kill that odor. I've also noticed that I'm evaporating a grip of water now. Seems like I have to add 5 gallons every other day. Darn big tank!!!

Any tips would be appreciated. I want this tank to pop with color.
 
I dose vinegar to reduce nitrate.. it works really well on my LPS tank. That tank is dirty and I overfeed. Keep nitrate down to about 10.. Vodka works the same, but in lower quantity.

other tanks I use marine pure blocks. but those tanks are cleaner and the blocks keep it at 5 nitrate. With all the discussion lately on leaching aluminum, I may switch to Siporax soon. They basically replace live rocks and suck up all the nitrate.

GFO is for phosphate. I use it from day 1.

I also dose Acropower. really brings out SPS polyps
 
Have you tested for phosphates? I would start by testing first. If you identify that you have a problem, there are several ways to remove phosphate. You can run GFO in pretty much any media reactor. Bulkreefsupply sells a simple inexpensive media reactor that I like. Other filter medias like phosguard and rowaphos will do the trick as well. There are some negatives to GFO and phosguard/rowaphos so a lot of people like to alternate between the two to balance things out. For drastically high phosphates, you can drip lanthanum chloride into a 10 micron filter sock. It causes the phosphate to bind and precipitate out of the water and gets caught in the filter sock. Some people don't like this method though and it should be used with caution. I don't have any experience with carbon dosing, someone else will have to chime in on that one. I've personally chosen to stick with the following filtration methods: settling tank to remove heavy waste, lots of skimming, macro algae and detox blox. I use activated carbon, GFO and Phosguard only when necessary to combat a specific issue.

As for smell and evaporation, the only option I can think of is to cover your sump and place a bag of activated carbon on top of your skimmer cup.
 
Last edited:
Mr. Brooks,

I've tested for phosphates and they are at 0.25. I noticed when I started running GFO again some of my corals started to color up.

Monkie,
Thanks for the suggestions. I also feed very heavily since I love keeping healthy tangs. I also plan on experimenting with dosing phyto. I'm guessing I'm going to be adding more phosphates with phyto so I'm planning on implementing something to counter-act the addition. Unless I setup my skimmer/ozone on a timer to kick back on 20 minutes after phyto is added so I can "burn up" whatever isn't consumed.
 
Finally getting my doors ready for my stand. It's been a while since I've posted here so I figure an update is necessary. Pics to come by end of week. Still trying to clean up wiring.

One thing I've done recently (past few weeks) was add a Ca Reactor. Man, this thing is more challenging to dial in then I thought. Hopefully I'll get it down soon.


Also, my tank is having an unusually high Alk parameter. I'm using an API test kit and so far it's showing 17dKH. Holy crap!!! Calcium hasn't been above 380. I don't know why this is happening so I'm trying to read up on alk/ca to see if I can wrap my head around the chemistry. Today I was thinking.....
1. Before adding the the Ca Reactor I was adding Vinegar and kalk to my ATO
2. The Ca Reactor was bought used and had aragonite already in it. I rinsed it once but that's it.
3. When I put the Ca Reactor on for the first time I made sure the ATO was no longer treated with kalk and vinegar

So......can my high alk issue be from the change from treated ATO to using a Ca reactor??
I've also noticed cyno building up and my skimmer still going nuts! I've had to choke off the skimmers air intake because it won't stop overflowing full open. I even raised the level to as high as I can get it in my sump and it's still skimming like crazy.

Anyone have these problems before or got advice as what I can do? Yesterday I did a 10% water change. Going to test my water today and pick up calcium chloride tomorrow.
 
Alright, I had a friend come over with a Red Sea test kit and the results came out a lot different then my API.

API
dKH-17
Ca-380

Red Sea
dKH-12.3
Ca-300
 
man that's huge difference...

CNcwxdiWsAA0HC3.jpg


time to look into Salifert, Red Sea, or Hanna. I personally use Salifer and Hanna. also got this shaker to save some work

https://sraquaristik.com/product/speed-test/
 
Last edited:
Back
Top