Minimalistic multichip DIY LED build

I really liked the fixture they have but they can't customize the LED multichip.

In looking into the Pacific Sun fixtures I noticed they don't use any white LED's and they supplement with other colors. Sounds interesting...
 
[QUOTEIn looking into the Pacific Sun fixtures I noticed they don't use any white LED's and they supplement with other colors. Sounds interesting... ][/QUOTE]

I have a a predominantly a cree set up and initially like most people I put in too many whites. I was having enormous problems with coral bleaching and recession. I also was running them too hard (concentrating too much on PAR as opposed to spectrum). I then stumbled upon the thread I posted earlier and also did a bit of research and concluded that I had too many white bulbs running too high. I have now taken out a majority of the whites ration 5:1 blues/whites inserted OCW which is basically turquoise, red and Rblue, which when mixed together gives white. I have never looked back corals are now doing great and growing. Corals which had suffered have now recovered.
 
... I have now taken out a majority of the whites ration 5:1 blues/whites inserted OCW which is basically turquoise, red and Rblue, which when mixed together gives white. I have never looked back corals are now doing great and growing. Corals which had suffered have now recovered.
Got any pictures of your tank with the current lights? I'm trying to figure out the best LED mix for an upcoming build.
 
IMG_20140224_075127.jpg
 
Awesome thanks! The picture has a blue look. Is the tank like that in person? If so, I think I need to go with a little more white than what you have.
 
The tank is slightly more brighter but my whites are only ramped up to 60% max @ 1000m/A. The picture unfortunately does not capture the colour really emitted by the OCW which in reality pick out all the pinks and reds.
 
In looking into the Pacific Sun fixtures I noticed they don't use any white LED's and they supplement with other colors. Sounds interesting

Yeah.. a very interesting fitting. What they are doing is creating white light by using the CyanGreen, RBlue and Red.
 
mmhhh ... I posted a link earlier on to a forum with a long video which suggests that yellow light produced by the white bulbs can cause algae growth. Have a look maybe you are punching in too much yellow. What test kits are you using? Additives? What lighting did you have before Leds?

can you post the video again pls

thanks
 
The chips are dimmable yes. There are a lot of different optics available, tight beam, wide beam, diffused etc. Most large optics are made of glass.

The efficiency are a bit lower when comparing total wattage, but ease of building, replacing broken LEDs, flexibility, price etc by far makes up for that.

I do help with builds, but I'm in Sweden :) But for any that like I can make a total "noob" guide how to make one.


Please send me a Noob guide lol Im eager to learn
 
How do these multichip leds differ from lets say a kessil? can u explain some benefits and comparison. price and performance.
 
I found a fixture that interest me for my reef. What do you think on the setup of this multichip LED?

12 x Blue LEDs run at 3W SemiLED 470nm input 3.5V , 750MA
10 x Cool White LEDs run at 3W Bridglux 12000K 3.5V 750MA
6 x Royal LEDs run at 3W SemiLED 440NM Input 3.5V 750MA
4 x UV LEDs run at 3W Edison 375-380nm 3.5v 750ma
6 X 6500K LEDs run at 3W bridglux 6500K 3.5v 750ma
2 x yellow LEDs run at 3W epistar 590nm 3.5v 750ma
1 x red LEDs run at 3w epistar 660nm 2.5V 750MA
1 x green LEDs run at 3W epistar 520NM 3.5V 750MA

From the top down
12@ 470 and 6@ 440 I would swap this ratio and do not see anything between those. So you would have a gap between 450 and 460 whioch is an important area of the spectrum for both growth and florescense

10 Cool Whites at 12,000K I would rather see something in the range of 4,500K to 6,000K which would eliminate the need for red and yellow chips.

375 to 380nm UV yes these are true UV;'s but they do not do anything for corals. Some say they may even burn corals. You should have a chip in the 420 to 420nm if you want to supplement UV.

590 nm does nothing for the corals as with the 520 chip. If anything I'd replace then with a 505 Cyan.

660 nm Red is okay but I think a 620nm is a little more important. Red is good but only moderation excessive red is often said to create two issues Cyan Bacteria and coral bleaching.

Overall I'd be looking at something like this per every 30 gallon of your tank volume with some modifications to the spectrum.
 
That might be the cause....because the 15,000K leds are more to the yellow spectrum light (i think the leds were cheap and not with the correct K). Im using salifert and tested with red sea as well to double check. as additives i use bicorbonate of soda for alkanity and calcium chloride for calcium. than ultra min s for corals. I had T5 lights before

Thanks

If they are causeing a yellow caste they are defenatly NOT even close to 15,000K. 15,000K should have a blue/turquoise tint..
 
What is currently the best full spectrum (For SPS corals, in particular) 50W multichip (With up to two individually controlled channels max) being sold?

I am basically trying to imitate the Kessil Cannons as simply (I don't want a thousand wires needed to dim individual channels) as possible.

How much trust do people put into the Epistar/Epiled brand nowadays?

I am looking to drive three 50W cannons for my new half cylinder build (With dimming from the Apex VDM). I have the driver(s) and the adjustable lens decided, and still deciding on the heatsinks, but I am so torn about which Multichip to go with... :(

I was, at first so sure about going with the "Cree Xlamp 50W XTE White(4pcs)+Royal Blue(6pcs) Coral Hybrid Multichip LED Light" but I haven't seen very many reviews on the net about it.
 
Are Epileds and Bridgelux trusted as decent/good LED brands

That is a very hard question to answer. As brands they are both reputable within their fields. What you have to judge is efficiency of the bulbs. Epileds tend to be good at producing the violet ranges and Bridgelux produce most colours. The downside with Bridgelux compared to Cree or Phillips is their efficiency. You will find that most bridgelux leds tend to be very voltage hungry relative to lumen output and most will not run beyond the 1000mA range.
 
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