Minimalistic multichip DIY LED build

[Meddler]

I don't think the information is necessarily new, but I think many can see that a fair amount of the commercially available lights don't have enough emphasis on the violet/bright-blue end of the spectrum. Considering that 400-440nm is the highest rate of absorption, I would expect to see lights with a (roughly) following layout:

12 LED Puck:
3x 6500K White
1x 5500K White
2x 460nm Royal Blue
2x 440nm Bright Blue
2x 420 Pure Violet
1x 400nm Ultra Violet
1x 660nm Deep Red

Certainly, these could change. Some want to add green for coloration. The green spectrum will be made up in the 5500K, which puts out a dominant wavelength of 525.4nm. Some may want more UV for that effect. In the end, I would think that this should be the basis of a light, and we would ADD more LEDs to it to bring out the effect that we want. This way, the corals get their basic requirements, and we get the look we want out of our tank. That being said, that would require a more expensive fixture, as the added LEDs would only be for show, and would provide minimal, albeit some, positive effect on coral growth and health.

 

[007Bond]

Interesting,...how are you going to control them? Dimming? Divide them up in groups on separate channels? ---Rick

 

[Meddler]

Interesting,...how are you going to control them? Dimming? Divide them up in groups on separate channels? ---Rick

To simplify I would likely run a 2-channel controller: Whites, Red, and UV on one channel, with Blues & Violets on the second.

If I had the option, I would rock a 3-channel dimmer, and put the whites on 1, blues on 2, and violet/UV/Red on the 3rd channel.

That being said, the risk is that if we use dimming, then we simply drop the violet and UVs down to make it look how we like and by doing that, we reduce the UV/violet in the light. Then we are back at square 1. So, to ensure that we don't fiddle, I would try (don't know if I could) to just leave it all on a single-channel dimmer. Maybe a per-pod dimmer.

I would also consider making small, 3-LED pods to go in between the main pods, to simply ADD some colors that I like to bring out the look I enjoy for my tank. The key there, just like above, would be to run the big pods at full power, and run the smaller pods to color it to my liking (ie. main pods at 100% and little guys at 40%). If they bleach, dial everything back equally (i.e. main pods back to 80%, and little guys at 32%) in lockstep so that I do not lose my violet/UV advantage while maintaining my coloring.

 

[007Bond]

Will be watching for any updates.---Rick

 

[themaddhatter]

Agreed. Because this article was published over 1.5 year ago and since this information was widespread You feel free to use any type of our 12x LED assemblies according to your requirements. If you would like to construct cheap fixture - you may use this assemblies: http://reefll.com/12xV1.0 if you would like to construct fixtures, based on assemblies, that has no any analogue, please use: http://reefll.com/12xV3.0

I would like to emphasize - no one of manufacturer of LED fixtures have the similar product. You may familiarise with this project here: http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2014/4/lighting

Has anyone got experience with this product? Looks intriguing.

 

[pwreef]

Has anyone got experience with this product? Looks intriguing.

Yes - ME :wave:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2409905

 

[sanamyan]

Has anyone got experience with this product? Looks intriguing.

I use first version of these 12led assemblies for a long time. My first led lighting was build in 2011 (see here ). It had just two types of leds - Royal Blues and Whites (cool white + neutral white). After some time I build another one for the same tank and now used ReefLedLab 12-leds assemblies. The result was (and is) very impressive - due to high amount of violet spectra the fluorescent pigments really pop, the fluorescence is much stronger than before and the overall impression is great. That I missed in first version of ReefLedLab 12-leds assemblies is the amount of warmer spectra, but as far as I know this was fixed in next versions of ReefLedLabe products (which include some LEDs having warmer spectra). Anyway, even with the first (cold) version of these assemblies I have the best lighting I eveк had (and I started with metall-galides+T5 actinics, simple and more complex DIY led fixtures so I can compare).

The only problem is that due to high amount of violet spectra is is very difficult to took good photos of the tank. On the photos it looks muddy and odd with violet cast and deep black shadows, but in reality the overall color is very beautiful.

 

[proietti]

Are you using the version with the PC Amber?

 

[ReefLedLab]

Unfortunately, no.
sanamyan has participated in the testing of an earlier version, which had no PC Amber. 12up assemblies, that he used, is 12xV2.1 version. More details can be found here http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2014/4/lighting

I would like to draw your attention - this old discontinued version of 12up assemblies is also representing very good visual impression. As sanamyan said "the fluorescence is much stronger than before and the overall impression is great". It has since been consistently made ​​two new versions, one is better than another

 

[007Bond]

Hello RLL,...what about deeper tanks(mine 42") how dose your diy 12up work on these? How deep will they penetrate the water depth? I'm looking into 100w Dream Chips,...only because the power to them can be increased, driving them to a max of 252w, and there are currently, adjustable lens available for them. Thanks,---Rick

 

[007Bond]

Hi, 007Bond!

Penetration of light depends mostly on lens, not of power of light. A lot of our customer has used our 12up assemblies on very deep tanks with proper lens with good result. Please check http://reefll.com/index.php?route=information/news&news_id=19 as you can see, this tanks have height 2 meters, i.e. 79". For very deep tank (or very high hanging of fixture) we recommend to use this lens without diffusers http://reefll.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=65_68&product_id=67

Thanks for the links you provided,....I'll look them over and will most likely have a few follow up questions of you?---Rick

 

[ReefLedLab]

I'll look them over and will most likely have a few follow up questions of you?---Rick

Please, don't hesitate of any questions!

 

[zachts]

Hi, 007Bond!

Penetration of light depends mostly on lens, not of power of light. A lot of our customer has used our 12up assemblies on very deep tanks with proper lens with good result. Please check http://reefll.com/index.php?route=information/news&news_id=19 as you can see, this tanks have height 2 meters, i.e. 79". For very deep tank (or very high hanging of fixture) we recommend to use this lens without diffusers http://reefll.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=65_68&product_id=67

That tank doesn't appear all that brightly lit compared to the background of the room. It looks to be a fish only so PAR levels of only 10 or 20 would still look bright enough for viewing

But would barely grow algea. What kind of par would you get at that depth and how many 12 up arrays would you need to grow coral in that tank? you would want 50 to 100 par near the bottom or at least on all the rock surfaces if that were a traditional reef tank.

I do like the arrays though, nothing against them at all.

 

[ReefLedLab]

That tank doesn't appear all that brightly lit compared to the background of the room. It looks to be a fish only so PAR levels of only 10 or 20 would still look bright enough for viewing

As you can see on photo, that tanks looks at the bottom almost as brightly lit as the top

What kind of par would you get at that depth and how many 12 up arrays would you need to grow coral in that tank? you would want 50 to 100 par near the bottom or at least on all the rock surfaces if that were a traditional reef tank.

We did not measured PAR in that tanks. But today one of this tank have some coral on bottom and near to bottom and it grows without problem.
About numbers of 12up arrays. Our component selection Wizard http://reefll.com/index.php?route=common/wizard has adviced proper numbers of 12up according to your request for tanks with depth at least up to 30". For deeper tank you should increase quantity. I think, for tanks with depth 80", if you would like to grow acros on bottom, you should increase quantity on ~50%, not more.

 

[hugorsf]

I built some multichip fixtures to replace the MH fixtures over the coral tanks at my store. I wanted 20k light to show off coral colours, but didn't want the usual "bait & switch" blue and Fiji purple look some retailers use to make brown corals look colourful. Eventually the customer sees the real thing when they take it home to their lighting.

I ended up with a colour that looks almost identical to the Radion fixture I have set at 20,000K. I would never use this colour mix over my own tank, but many people like the look.

Here's a map of the chip layout...

Here is a picture of the chip dimmed.

Here's a bad iphone photo that makes it look a lot more blue than it really is. I'll try to take a better pic with a real camera tomorrow. The Radion is at the end of the tank.

As you can see, it takes a lot of blue mixed with "16k" to get the look of a true 20k. An earlier version had one row (10%) red and it looked horrible. Red is so dominant it made the whole chip look pink. I had to scrap 16 multichips and start again

Sorry if you have allready answer this, but i cant find it:

1 - What temperature of whites do you use in this setup?
2 - Shouldn't have more of 430nm and less 470nm?

 

[ReefLedLab]

2 - Shouldn't have more of 430nm and less 470nm?

If you will change quantity of LEDs, will be good if you will change its wavelength too. Preferably 415-420nm, because violet LED with longer wavelength are working almost similar as royal blue.

 

[hugorsf]

If you will change quantity of LEDs, will be good if you will change its wavelength too. Preferably 415-420nm, because violet LED with longer wavelength are working almost similar as royal blue.

Sure, but 415-420 are not that easy/cheap to find in this kind of multichip led!:hmm3:

I'm just asking in the 4 wavelength that Mr. Wilson used!

 

[hugorsf]

in this kind of multichip led!

:debi::thumbsup:

 

[blokrocbet]

Have you thought of using a pelter device to help reduce the size requirement for the cooling coils, They are around $10 and run on 12 volts. Just a thought. Nice work

 

[hugorsf]

Anyone can answer my question about the Kelvin of the whites?
Thanks!