Minnesota Basement Fish Room
- Thread starter huseMN
- Start date
I ran the RODI line to the back of the room and connected it to my RODI holding tank. I am using a float valve to shut off the booster pump and water flow to the tank. The booster pump has a pressure switch in line so when pressure builds it shuts off. I also am going to wire an outlet on a switch to manual shut off power to the pump and after the tank is full I will also turn the RODI shut off valve off. That way the pump will be off and water will be off until it is time to make new water. I had thought about automating it further with float switches and an apex to automatically fill the RODI tank when it gets low (as some have done to avoid TDS creep) but decided against as it seemed unnecessarily complicated. The 100 gallon tank should mean I will not have to make water very frequently.
My old setup was a 45 gallon cube. I had a mixing station rigged up using a couple of (50 gallon?) pickling barrels. I used an eheim 1260 for a mixing pump and plumbed the tanks together in such a way to facilitate easy transfer of water and mixing. I am going to setup up my current tanks in a very similar manner.
I will repurpose the two black pickling tanks. One tank I will use as a cryptic fuge/live rock holding tank/added water volume. This will be plumbed into the main system. The other tank I think I will cut up and use for growing potatoes this summer.
I will repurpose the two black pickling tanks. One tank I will use as a cryptic fuge/live rock holding tank/added water volume. This will be plumbed into the main system. The other tank I think I will cut up and use for growing potatoes this summer.
Here is my 75 gallon sump. I split it up into three chambers. Middle chamber is the return section with a 1 1/2 inch bulk head that will feed my external Panworld 150 return pump. The right section will house my future skimmer and drains from the main tank. The left section is going to house a refugium and will also be where my cryptic 50 gallon barrel will drain into. (I changed the layout in the picture)
I purchased a 40 gallon breeder during the $1 gallon sale and dismantled it for the glass. I then cut the glass into appropriate sized baffles and siliconed them into place.
I purchased a 40 gallon breeder during the $1 gallon sale and dismantled it for the glass. I then cut the glass into appropriate sized baffles and siliconed them into place.
It is an absolute must to use stranded wire when trying to fish the wire through the conduit. Would have been almost impossible if it was solid.
I picked up a bunch of these plugs from the depot and attached all of the stranded wire to them once cut to length. I then sleeved the wire in 1/4" expandable braided sleeving. I purchased the non fray kind. Worked out great but was obviously very tedious. I did wrap the cords in black electrical tape before sleeving to hid the green and white wires. I drilled holes in the conduit boxes and secured the sleeving with some zip ties to help from pulling through.
I picked up a bunch of these plugs from the depot and attached all of the stranded wire to them once cut to length. I then sleeved the wire in 1/4" expandable braided sleeving. I purchased the non fray kind. Worked out great but was obviously very tedious. I did wrap the cords in black electrical tape before sleeving to hid the green and white wires. I drilled holes in the conduit boxes and secured the sleeving with some zip ties to help from pulling through.
bit of heatshrink around that sleeving and you'll never have to worry about it. I always finish my ends with heatshrink
Agreed! I didn't have any on hand and made sure to leave enough sleeving into the conduit box. The zipties also help the actual cord from sliding through.
Thanks and appreciate it. It's coming together slowly. I just received a 10 foot 8 pin minidin from amazon today so will be getting the breakout box and float switches connected and program to automate top offs and water changes.
I looked everywhere locally for one of those cords and no one had it. Must be very outdated
I looked everywhere locally for one of those cords and no one had it. Must be very outdated
homer1475
New member
Really liking the thought out process here, just a small question though. You basically made your own "extension cords", plugged them into the EB8's, then ran them to the tank where I'm assuming you put regular outlet boxes?
If thats right, it's a great idea to keep all the apex gear away from the tank.
If thats right, it's a great idea to keep all the apex gear away from the tank.
Yes, you are absolutely correct. I wanted all of the apex units up and out of the way. Extension cords would have done the trick but I would have needed a lot of them based on where all of the equipment will be, plus this just feels more organized.
homer1475
New member
100% agree with you there. I was trying to figure out how I could put my apex gear in the closet behind the tank, and now I know how. Thanks! :thumbsup:
So..... I am setting up a 40 breeder in the fish room that will be my main display until I can get a larger tank. I will then turn the 40 into a frag tank. That being said I am looking for an awesome light.
Any recommendations or suggestions for a good light? I am leaning towards Halide as that is proven and no one can argue growth.
Any recommendations or suggestions for a good light? I am leaning towards Halide as that is proven and no one can argue growth.
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