Mountain Madness - My full floor reno's with 300 gallon centrepiece.

VanJuKy said:
Yes it has the automatic transfer switch. Power goes out and then it kicks in within a minute. Obviously for us here it is run on Natural gas.
It is badged as Honeywell but it is made by Generac. I ordered mine online from Costco when they were on sale in November. What is surprising is the cost to have them installed. It cost almost 3k for install. Hydro needs to be involved for permits as well. We do have it set up as a whole house unit instead of select circuits. We put a meter on the panel in the garage and ran absolutely everything we could in the house. Lights, heaters, hairdryers, microwave, stereos, TV's, all appliances etc. and came up with just over 40amps. We would never run anything like we did for that test. Not even close. Power goes out and DT, and quarantine are not in jeopardy. Fairly easy sell to the wife too!
Click to expand...

Yup that's what I found as well. Still haven't pulled the trigger on it but I know it's an eventual expense I will have to shell out for. The key is to get it before I need it haahaa!
 
Scythanith said:
Yup that's what I found as well. Still haven't pulled the trigger on it but I know it's an eventual expense I will have to shell out for. The key is to get it before I need it haahaa!
Click to expand...

When your tank is fine and you are enjoying a movie and popcorn while it is -20 degrees out and the rest of the neighborhood is in the dark, you wont second guess it!:dance:
 
I need some advice on my tank layout. I don't want the worry of having a closed loop with all the potential for leaks with bulkheads. I do need good flow though.

Here is what my tank will be like. It will be a peninsula setup against the internal overflow. It will flow to a shallow end at the other side where I will have a nice empty space. I do intend on having a few nice tunnels or bridges.

I have all the listed pumps already. My concern is detritus under the reef.

Tank is 96" long.

IqdhFSV.jpg


A second option is to plumb the return under the rock with grey pvc. Keep the Gyre 280 up top and the MP40 on the opposite end. There is no room for pumps between the wall and tank.
What are your thoughts?

Ip6Z6sT.jpg
 
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Running pipes under the sand like option 2 leaves you open to a back-siphon unless you utilize some sort of protection. Some people install a one-way valve at the top but these are prone to failure. If you insist on going this way make sure you get a see-through valve so you can verify the valve is working and plumb it so that it can be taken out and cleaned or replaced. Another method is simply to drill a small hole near the top that will suck air and break a siphon, but such holes are prone to encrust with salt and you must make it a part of your regular maintenance to keep the hole clear.

If you go with option 1, I would suggest you consider at one of the Gyre pumps.

To control detritus under your rockwork consider setting pieces on the bottom that will act like feet to raise the rest of the rocks up off the bottom. There are several forms of epoxy glue that people use to hold the rockwork together. Keeping an open space under the rocks allows currents to flush this space out as part of normal flow within the tank.

Dave.M
 
dave.m said:
Running pipes under the sand like option 2 leaves you open to a back-siphon unless you utilize some sort of protection. Some people install a one-way valve at the top but these are prone to failure. If you insist on going this way make sure you get a see-through valve so you can verify the valve is working and plumb it so that it can be taken out and cleaned or replaced. Another method is simply to drill a small hole near the top that will suck air and break a siphon, but such holes are prone to encrust with salt and you must make it a part of your regular maintenance to keep the hole clear.

If you go with option 1, I would suggest you consider at one of the Gyre pumps.

To control detritus under your rockwork consider setting pieces on the bottom that will act like feet to raise the rest of the rocks up off the bottom. There are several forms of epoxy glue that people use to hold the rockwork together. Keeping an open space under the rocks allows currents to flush this space out as part of normal flow within the tank.

Dave.M
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Thanks Dave,
Definitely would drill a couple of holes in the pipes. I used to only do one per pipe but when I read about someone having a snail sitting on one when power went out, I decided two would be better. I have never used so much flow in my tank so I am not sure what to expect as far as detritus accumulation. In the past when I took a tank down I was always amazed at how much crap was under the rocks. And, I was always careful about creating open rock work with small contact points. I have never been guilty of creating the rock pile that I made with my picture. I can't imagine how bad that would get.:lmao:
Still not sure what to do. I could also run a dedicated pump in the overflow box. Sort of like a closed loop without bulkheads? Just leave the return's alone.
 
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Fireplace covered in drywall and cement board. Cement board where tile will go. Inset is framed to accommodate a 70" television. There will be a mantle as well.
0Ly4yWV.jpg
 
VanJuKy said:
In the past when I took a tank down I was always amazed at how much crap was under the rocks.
Click to expand...
You can use a small pump during your weekly maintenance to blow out under the rockwork and to disturb any detritus that has settled on top of the rocks. You want to get as much of it back up into the water column to get collected by the overflow and into the filter socks. It doesn't have to be too powerful a pump, just enough to get stuff floating again. Corals love to feed on this stuff, too.

Dave.M
 
Lots more drywall and mudding work completed. Ceilings redone with new lights and wired for home theatre speakers.

RZCQHWY.jpg


The doorway into the fish room. The audio video rack will be installed on the left side to hold all components.

tLANAfJ.jpg


Kitchen ceiling redone. No more 1980's big pot lights or popcorn ceiling. New pendants over the counter. Fridge removed and new cabinet will be built in its place. Cabinets to be sealed for woodgrain and then painted white on top and stained dark brown on the bottom.

FPsWPaU.jpg
 
dave.m said:
You can use a small pump during your weekly maintenance to blow out under the rockwork and to disturb any detritus that has settled on top of the rocks. You want to get as much of it back up into the water column to get collected by the overflow and into the filter socks. It doesn't have to be too powerful a pump, just enough to get stuff floating again. Corals love to feed on this stuff, too.

Dave.M
Click to expand...

I just pictured a tool I will make for this! Thanks!:thumbsup:
 
Laundry room before. This will become the fish room. All Apex and Reef Genesis equipment will be placed on color coordinated boards and mounted on the walls.
Two 210 gallon barrels will be in the garage for mixing station and for the RO/DI and Reef Genesis to draw from.

wqXLgpe.jpg


Washer and dryer removed for sink and cabinets. Unfinished cabinets bought from Home Depot. They will be painted white.Full tiled back splash will be installed as well.

rFfLrwD.jpg
 
I built this in the garage. Two 210 gallon holding tanks for mixing and holding as well as a Panworld 100PX pump for mixing. Water supply will come from a Spectrapure RO/DI unit. I also bought a Reef Genesis Storm and Renew which will plumb through the wall into the fish/laundry room. I will also plumb the mixing station to the sump as well. Even though the Genesis will change 5 gallons a day, I still need to be able to change larger volumes should the need arise.

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Nice work! We've been dealing with a remodel of sorts thanks to mother nature's propensity to flood and it's been like having a 2nd job so kudos for the progress you've made. Before and after pictures don't show the amount of work and frustration that go into it!

Oh yea and the tank build looks awesome!
 
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