Moving Iwaki to other side of wall

In regards to cutting out the horizontal piece on the rear of the stand... You could reinforce it if you are concerned by drilling a hole through a 1x4 or 1x6 that the pipe could run through and then screw it on either side to the horizontal stand piece.

Likely not necessary, but a workaround if you are concerned.

Don
 
I dont think it will make much of a difference, but I might reinforce anyway. You can see in the picture the 1x4 in the back that is in the way if I run a level horizontal 1.5" PVC from the bulkhead.

Does the 10 x pipe diameter apply at the bulkhead as well? Would I need 15 inches from the bulkhead before I make my 90? If that is the case, I would probably be drilling a hole in the back corner of the stand.
 
If it were me, I would put either a union or a tubv right at the sump, in case you ever need it. I would also put a valve, tubv if you want, on the 1.5" line going to the tank past the 1" line for the manifold in case you need to put back pressure on the manifold of you
need more pressure for your reactors, etc.

Looking good!

Don
 
Added some TUBVs and some BVs. Does anyone think a Check Swing Valve is a good idea by the pump or should the sump be able to handle the back flow?
 
I just thought. I would put a tubv at the sump. With just a union, if you ever need to remove the pipe, it would drain everywhere.
 
dcmartinpc said:
I just thought. I would put a tubv at the sump. With just a union, if you ever need to remove the pipe, it would drain everywhere.
Click to expand...

Then I wouldnt need a TUBV by the pump, just a TU?

I'm also thinking about ease of use, since I'll be in a different room when pulling apart plumbing. Might be worth having a TUBV twice on that line, one in each room
 
Will a TU Swing Check Valve cause friction on the return?

With the 45 just below the water line, there shouldnt be too much back siphoning into the sump, just the volume of the 1.5" plumbing. Hopefully the sump can handle it...actually, it will just be the vertical section of the 1.5" plumbing as the horizontal section will stay full since it is in line with the bulkhead.
 
jharding08 said:
Will a TU Swing Check Valve cause friction on the return?

With the 45 just below the water line, there shouldnt be too much back siphoning into the sump, just the volume of the 1.5" plumbing. Hopefully the sump can handle it...actually, it will just be the vertical section of the 1.5" plumbing as the horizontal section will stay full since it is in line with the bulkhead.
Click to expand...

Don't use a check valve, they will just fail when you need them the most. The failure probability on check valves and anti-siphon holes is 100%. If you have a volume issue in the sump, fix the volume issue.
 
Agreed. Check valves always work except when you need them to and snails or other gunk inevitably cover siphon holes. I think you will be ok. Just make sure it break right at the surface.

I personally would use 2 TUBV on the inlet in that config. 1 at the sump and 1 at the pump. That gives you the most flexibility in the long run and you will be glad you have it if you need it.

Don
 
Valves needed: Pump inlet: -->ball valve, on/off only. Pump outlet: --ball valve, on/off only. Return line:--> Gate valve, above 1" branch, flow control, Branch: -->gate/needle valve to control flow, one for each reactor.

Unions needed: Pump inlet: --> sch 40 spa fitting. Pump outlet: -->sch 40 spa fitting. All other unions in the system are a waste, and potential leak points. 99% of folks, whether it is planned for or not, will never take their plumbing apart, let alone spend the time to clean it, and dissasembly is not necessary for cleaning.

True union ball valves are a huge waste, as for ball valve usage (not mis-usage) $5 valves are all that is needed. If you are taking your plumbing apart all the time, maybe there is something wrong with the plumbing set up...

Glued in gate valves, if not butted against other fittings, (should not be anyway) are reuseable for as many times as there is a little over an inch of pipe sticking out both ends.

The pump needs to be removed at least twice a year, for cleaning and maintenance. No one does that? Well they are supposed to be doing that...and the spa fittings make it possible.

Other than that, the over "fitting" of return systems is a bit silly.
 
If you have the room, unions and standard valves work just fine. In some situations I am forced to use TUBV due to space restrictions. I also think it is a cleaner look. But I tend to go a bit overkill trying to keep everything looking clean. I definitely don't think they are a "waste" but I agree there are other options unless space dictates their use.

I have never had a quality TUBV leak. I have used Georg Fischer, Spears, and even the American Valve ones from Lowes. I am not saying the potential isn't there, but I have never seen a properly installed one leak in my 10 years in the hobby.

I personally prefer Georg Fischer valves (TUBV and standard) because they operate very smoothly and have held up very well for me over the years. IME cheaper valves tend to be harder to turn and I have had the regular valves from Lowes suck air and act like a Venturi and create micro bubbles. Granted it was only 2 out of the however many piles of valves I have installed, but it happened, and I hate redoing plumbing when something doesn't function as spec'd.

Buy once and buy quality and call it a day, whether you choose to use TUBV or not.

Don
 
Yeah clean works, and I violate my own advice at times, depending on "the client is always right" concept....

337-5.jpg
 
Awesome info guys, thanks!

What about the right angle after the bulkhead, can I do it 6" from the bulkhead or do I need to do the 1.5"x10=15" from the bulkhead?
 
Yeah, the only place the 10x rule applies is between that last direction change, and the intake volute of the pump.
 
hope no one tells the water in my house it's been breaking the 10x rule for the last 9 years cause then I'd be #$%&'d

cuda.jpg
 
It is your pump, and you are more than welcome to install it in any manner you wish.

However, your installation is in violation of how centrifugal pumps are supposed to be installed, and in violation of the very clear and concise instructions supplied with the pump.

Good for you it has not destroyed the bearings and bent the mainshaft yet, however, that does not mean your installation is correct. Looking at the position of the valve, you are not running that pump anywhere near what it is capable of, which makes the pump a complete waste, and that is quite possibly why it has not self destructed.

Just so you can be clear what I am saying, it is not the water that is violating the "rules" it is the operator that is violating the rules... ;)
 
I run it full open estimating around 1000gph (I know, another rule broken about to much flow through the sump) since 2008, before that a Iwaki MD 70RLT same conf. No problems, just saying.

Believe though what's saving me is head.
 
That pump is far more capable than 1000 gph ;) And running low flow through the sump is breaking the rules...not the opposite. I really get a kick out of the flow rate debates...too much common practice, and not enough realization of what is really going on.... ;)
 
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