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samsfishnchips
Premium Member
someone can't wait for santa 
sam
sam
afss
New member
I asked earlier but haven't seen a response yet. I would love to have the time to sift through this whole thread but i really don't. I am wondering what the best way to set an MR3 up is to produce a wet foam. I have a new style and an old style becket on it. Its being pushed by a hammerhead that is also being used to push the return as well as a bypass so i have ample power to divert more or less to each becket. Should i have the air valves more or less open all the way and control the amount of water pressure or should I let the water flow full force and control the air valves, where should i set the water level at etc etc. I have never run a becket before so this has all been a learning curve so far and so far i have been messing with the valves every day or so to try to maintain a wet skim.
Thanks for any pointers
Scott
Thanks for any pointers
Scott
NoSchwag
Premium Member
scott,
joefish did the same thing with 2 different becketts and he didn't like it. Maybe try ditching the old one.
Some mods I did that you could do are raising your beckett off of the black box 7 or 8" with a piece of 1" pipe and (more importantly) do a 1" straight from your pump output into the beckett housing, loose the 90 that's there. I noticed a big difference doing this.
I'm not sure if you ment you wanted wet foam, or if you wanted to skim wet.. There is a difference. There should be no "foam" if you are wet skimming. Froth sure, but no foam.
Wet skimming was a little tricky for me. Try to get the thick bubbles starting right below the top (3rd) riser. I'm not sure where this would be with the air off, but with the air on, that's about where your thick bubbles should start.
Also once you get your level right, you should have the touch the water gate valve.
If the bubbles are flowing over the top, that's obviously too much. Try turning your air down so the bubbles pop right below the top. If you have to turn your air down too much to stop the overflowing of bubbles, then you need to lower the water level in your skimmer.
If I turn my air up just a little, bubbles will flow over the top.
Hope that helps..
joefish did the same thing with 2 different becketts and he didn't like it. Maybe try ditching the old one.
Some mods I did that you could do are raising your beckett off of the black box 7 or 8" with a piece of 1" pipe and (more importantly) do a 1" straight from your pump output into the beckett housing, loose the 90 that's there. I noticed a big difference doing this.
I'm not sure if you ment you wanted wet foam, or if you wanted to skim wet.. There is a difference. There should be no "foam" if you are wet skimming. Froth sure, but no foam.
Wet skimming was a little tricky for me. Try to get the thick bubbles starting right below the top (3rd) riser. I'm not sure where this would be with the air off, but with the air on, that's about where your thick bubbles should start.
Also once you get your level right, you should have the touch the water gate valve.
If the bubbles are flowing over the top, that's obviously too much. Try turning your air down so the bubbles pop right below the top. If you have to turn your air down too much to stop the overflowing of bubbles, then you need to lower the water level in your skimmer.
If I turn my air up just a little, bubbles will flow over the top.
Hope that helps..
nunez1980 said:
nunez
Can you please elaborate on this issue of how to fix it? I have a new (2 week old) MR-2 with Gen X 55 and it is RATTLING like crazy. It is skimming ok but rattling. I am not certain what you mean by beckett head and inner piece is that the Black injector between the two PVC pipes? Or is it the white Sch 40 PVC in side the Gray Sch 80. If you can photo will help
Thanks for your help.:wave:
Memo!
Ereefic
In Memoriam
Memo, here are some pics to help you out.
1st Pic - Beckett is inside of this housing. Back out the 3 thumbscrews a little and then twist and pull out the injector. Then remove the injector from the top of the housing, should just slide out.
2nd Pic - Beckett injector (may be black or grey). There may be a couple of o-rings around the bottom of the injector, you'll need to slide those off before you can pull it apart.
3rd Pic - Injector opened up.
4th Pic - Inside piece of the injector.
You'll notice that the pieces on the opposite sides are notched out and the other 2 sides are not on the inside injector piece. The nothced sides go into the notches on both halves of the injector. You'll want to glue the middle piece to ONE SIDE ONLY. Basically so it looks like pic 3. Be very careful glueing to make sure it doesn't run and glue the 2 halves together. I'd let the glue dry for a good while and clean up any stray glue.
Pic 1
Pic 2
Pic 3
Pic 4
1st Pic - Beckett is inside of this housing. Back out the 3 thumbscrews a little and then twist and pull out the injector. Then remove the injector from the top of the housing, should just slide out.
2nd Pic - Beckett injector (may be black or grey). There may be a couple of o-rings around the bottom of the injector, you'll need to slide those off before you can pull it apart.
3rd Pic - Injector opened up.
4th Pic - Inside piece of the injector.
You'll notice that the pieces on the opposite sides are notched out and the other 2 sides are not on the inside injector piece. The nothced sides go into the notches on both halves of the injector. You'll want to glue the middle piece to ONE SIDE ONLY. Basically so it looks like pic 3. Be very careful glueing to make sure it doesn't run and glue the 2 halves together. I'd let the glue dry for a good while and clean up any stray glue.
Pic 1
Pic 2
Pic 3
Pic 4
Ereefic
In Memoriam
You can try silicone and see if it works, although I don't know well it will hold.
Really, there is no reason you should ever need to take the inside piece out, other than cleaning. But as long as you don't glue the whole thing together, you should be able to clean it.
Before you glue it, see how it will be to clean the one side. That way you'll know if glueing is a good idea, or to find some other 'not so permanant' method.
Really, there is no reason you should ever need to take the inside piece out, other than cleaning. But as long as you don't glue the whole thing together, you should be able to clean it.
Before you glue it, see how it will be to clean the one side. That way you'll know if glueing is a good idea, or to find some other 'not so permanant' method.
samsfishnchips
Premium Member
Memo,
glue the two pieces on pic3,
you start with three pieces and end up with two loose ones, the crazy glue does what it suppose to do without it, sometimes it happens to the head, and I have had becketts from different sources do this,
the beckett head doesn't have any moving parts, thus no performance decrease will happened
with two pieces loose, you will still be able to clean just fine, I would recommend crazy glue, for
1. there is not need to separated the pieces
2. you don't want to deal with this again
3. crazy glue is safer, works instantly, silicone, which should be giving 48hrs to cure property
thx for the pics Ereefic
sam
glue the two pieces on pic3,
you start with three pieces and end up with two loose ones, the crazy glue does what it suppose to do without it, sometimes it happens to the head, and I have had becketts from different sources do this,
the beckett head doesn't have any moving parts, thus no performance decrease will happened
with two pieces loose, you will still be able to clean just fine, I would recommend crazy glue, for
1. there is not need to separated the pieces
2. you don't want to deal with this again
3. crazy glue is safer, works instantly, silicone, which should be giving 48hrs to cure property
thx for the pics Ereefic
sam
afss
New member
No schwag, lift your skimmer up so that the exhaust of the skimmer is above the water level in the sump. This is likely why capt insano saw a huge difference in the skimmer as it no longer had the back pressure. As long as its above that level then it doesn't make a huge difference how much the water level in the sump goes up and down, of course the salinity will affect it if you let it vary too much.
Thanks for the tips. I will try them out. I like the foam i am getting with the 2 becketts, basically the whole lower chamber is a mass of solid bubbles (will try to get a pic).
What does raising the beckets do for performance. I would think they would work better being shorter, but i really don't know much about them, just gut logic.
Thanks
Thanks for the tips. I will try them out. I like the foam i am getting with the 2 becketts, basically the whole lower chamber is a mass of solid bubbles (will try to get a pic).
What does raising the beckets do for performance. I would think they would work better being shorter, but i really don't know much about them, just gut logic.
Thanks
kirei said:
In my earlier post, I mentioned I was re doing my sump. Unfortunately, I doubt if I can raise it above the water line due to height considerations.
If I moved my MR1 outboard, would it still be ok to be level with the sump?
Secondly, would I need to add a "T" to the gate valve to allow some air or just a straight on connection with the bulk head?
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