Must-haves for EASY DIY controller?

[TheShadow]

I don't think there is any communication. No lights at all. orientation is OK, same as main.
strange that the main header works great but when i move it to the slave header nothing.

 

[TheShadow]

Oh ya one more thing when I plug the bub into the slave header(with it unplugged from the main power) it runs the main firmware, I guess that means it has power

 

[TheShadow]

strange but when I switched my board type to Uno it loaded to the slave. Will this pose a problem.

 

[der_wille_zur_macht]

Sounds like you have different bootloaders on the two chips?

 

[TheShadow]

do i need to match them or will they work together as is

 

[der_wille_zur_macht]

I can't think of any specific reason to match them other than pure convenience.

 

[shirley386]

I notice on the Arduino program there is a tool to "Burn Bootloader". Would that correct the problem Shadow is having and if so which option should you choose?

 

[der_wille_zur_macht]

Yeah, it would, but you need hardware between your PC and the target AVR, you can't burn in-system on this hardware without modification. Google searching "burn arduino bootloader" or similar terms will reveal all sorts of solutions. You can even hack an existing Arduino to burn onto other chips.

If people are interested in doing this, it's lots of fun, and lets you use "generic" AVRs bought from any supplier (i.e. you no longer have to buy a bootloaded chip) but it's not strictly necessary to have this capability.

 

[TheShadow]

I would like to try some function to see if the slave is functioning. would a temp probe work if so what pin for data?

 

[der_wille_zur_macht]

If you mean "working" in the minimal hardware sense I would just load the common blink sketch, put a resistor and an LED in series on pin 13, and see if it blinks.

Or, did you mean in the "slave" sense according to some certain intended function? If so, can you reference the firmware you're using?

 

[TheShadow]

Slave sense Terahz latest firmware

 

[nrbelk]

Man, the problem with these threads is that it gets so big its hard to find information lol.

With that in mind, I just got my Dosing pumps working, now I'm in the testing phase.

I'm going to add a tempurature monitor to my controller. Which is this:

https://www.adafruit.com/products/381

Does anyone have a guide or something about how I can wire that up and the arduino code that it needs?

Another question I have is how to monitor PH. Which probe and hardware do I need to look at?

Thanks

 

[terahz]

I would like to try some function to see if the slave is functioning. would a temp probe work if so what pin for data?

If you've confirmed that the hardware is ok (at a minimum, you should see the LEDs on the ethernet port working when the board is connected to your network), the easiest test would be to go to http://192.168.1.128 in your browser. If your ethernet port is working, the board is connected to your network and your network is in the 192.168.1.x range, then you should see a working webpage showing, at least your pH.

Man, the problem with these threads is that it gets so big its hard to find information lol.

That's why we have a wiki: http://hydra-reef.com/wiki/Home

https://www.adafruit.com/products/381

Does anyone have a guide or something about how I can wire that up and the arduino code that it needs?

Looks like a 1-Wire probe. Bot the slave and the master have support for it. The current latest code uses digital pin 2 on the master (if you're using the complete firmware, if you connect the probe that pin, temperature will start displaying on the screen) and digital pin 3 on the slave.

Another question I have is how to monitor PH. Which probe and hardware do I need to look at?

I'm guessing you're talking about the Hydra controller here... You don't need any additional hardware other than the pH Probe itself. Almost any standard pH probe will work. I get mine from BRS.

 

[TheShadow]

Looks like a 1-Wire probe. Bot the slave and the master have support for it. The current latest code uses digital pin 2 on the master (if you're using the complete firmware, if you connect the probe that pin, temperature will start displaying on the screen) and digital pin 3 on the slave

I still need the 4.7 resistor?

DS18B20 leads
1= GND
2= DQ
3= 5v+
4.7 k resistor between #3 and #2 leads

DQ #2 lead = pin 2 on master
or
DQ #2 lead = pin D3 slave

 

[der_wille_zur_macht]

I still need the 4.7 resistor?

DS18B20 leads
1= GND
2= DQ
3= 5v+
4.7 k resistor between #3 and #2 leads

DQ #2 lead = pin 2 on master
or
DQ #2 lead = pin D3 slave

It'll probably work without it, but I would absolutely include it. Especially since you get it for free if you buy that waterproofed version of the sensor from ada.

 

[TheShadow]

I am trying to make my own sensors but I am having no luck getting the hydra to read it

 

[nrbelk]

I don't know anything about hydra. I thought this was about arduino...

As for the PH question, I was wondering what probe you use and how you hook it up to an arduino.

Is Hydra based off arduino? I have an arduino MEGA if that helps.

 

[davbrunson]

control unit

control unit

Hello,

I am just starting up a 30 half moon glass, coral only tank. Since I am using an internal skimmer and led lighting, is there really a need for the control unit to just control the light cutting off and on? what would be the other benefits?

 

[TheFishMan65]

IMHO some folks go over board with dawn and dusk just for the coolness effect. The only real positive I have heard is that fish that jump when startled my jump less with the slow turn on/off of the lights. But then again most fish and corals have been doing fine with T5 turning on and off. So if the controller is just for dimming the LEDs then maybe not. Monitoring Ph, temp, water levels, etc have there own benefits.

 

[der_wille_zur_macht]

I am trying to make my own sensors but I am having no luck getting the hydra to read it

Can you describe the sensors you are trying to make and how you are trying to use them?

I don't know anything about hydra. I thought this was about arduino...

As for the PH question, I was wondering what probe you use and how you hook it up to an arduino.

Is Hydra based off arduino? I have an arduino MEGA if that helps.

Hydra is the name of the project we're developing in this thread. It's an Arduino clone with some onboard hardware to target it towards monitoring/controlling aquariums.

To use a typical pH probe with a generic Arduino, you need an instrument amplifier between the probe and the Arduino, since the Arduino cannot measure the raw signal from the probe. There are lots of designs. If you search for threads started by terahz in this forum you'll find the design we based the Hydra's amp on.

IMHO some folks go over board with dawn and dusk just for the coolness effect. The only real positive I have heard is that fish that jump when startled my jump less with the slow turn on/off of the lights. But then again most fish and corals have been doing fine with T5 turning on and off. So if the controller is just for dimming the LEDs then maybe not. Monitoring Ph, temp, water levels, etc have there own benefits.

Agreed, controlling the LEDs is just as much for hobbyist enjoyment as for the livestock. If all you want to do is dim LEDs, the Hydra is overkill. You might be better off with a Typhon - look for the "easy DIY arduino LED controller" thread in this forum.