Must-haves for EASY DIY controller?

send the zip

send the zip

discussmith said:
I have been trying with no success to e-mail the gerber files to itead. I have downloaded expanded erased and downloaded and expanded again to try to e-mail them. I have tried everything i can think of but ie stops working due to some problem reading the attachment files when emailing. Is it possible after the last edit that something corrupted the zip file? Has anyone else tried to use them lately? If not am I not downloading them correctly? I go to the google site with the link and then right click on the gerber.zip file and save it. It expands with all the right file extentions itead requires but it seems one of the can't be read when e-mailing and everything locks.
Click to expand...

Have you tried using firefox or chrome? Also when I sent in the gerbers i just sent the entire zip if that helps any
 
I also sent the compressed zip file and they sent it on to the factory, so I assume that's all they need. It still seems strange however that after extracting the files I was unable to send them that way.
 
Were you extracting and then re-zipping or something? itead wants them in a zip. Maybe a virus blocker (either on your email system or theirs) was interfering?

At any rate, it sounds like you solved the problem?
 
Being that this was being sent to a foreign country I thought I should extract them and send them that way. This info should probably be included with instuctions on getting boards made in case others don't read these posts. I sent the zip file on the chance that they would have the means to extract them. Obviously they do. I doubt that the problem is a virus unless it came with the zip file, but even then when I extracted them my systems did not catch anything. The problem only shows up when after attaching them to an e-mail and then trying to send it. I get an error message saying a file can't be read. The e-mail system I'm using is provided by my ISP and does not handle this properly as the screen becomes corrupted so I can't read which file and the e-mail system locks up so I have to exit off line and start over. Not much help I'm afraid. I guess we should just ignor unless someone else reports a problem or itead reports a problem with the zip file.

Thanks all;
 
Any one know if the digikey #ed7116-nd is equal to the mouser #517-974-01-16 16 pin straight header? Mouser is out and the BOM does not list a PN for digikey. While it won't break the bank the part is $4 and I'm ordering components for 2 boards so 6 of them will add up if they're wrong.
 
Last edited:
That's a really fancy machine pin header. It'll work but it's a little bit overkill.

IMHO the best way to get the pin headers it to order a bag of them from a hobby vendor - sparkfun, seeedstudio, iteadstudio, modern device (my favorite). You're probably going to need to have an order from one of these vendors for the AVR and one or two other things anyways. Their pin headers are typically cheaper than Mouser or Digikey, and you know you're getting the right parts.
 
Thanks DWZM for the reply. Unfortunately I have already ordered the AVR and LCD from them and I have most everything else coming from Mouser. I have a few of the unavailable mouser parts coming from Digikey. All have been confirmed and are shipped. The only other part other than those headers is the magjak. I will be hunting that down as soon as I'm off here. I guess it's not a big deal to find them anywhere else and pay the shipping as it will assumedly be cheaper than the $4.00 each for those others.
 
Well I've gotten almost all the components. I have to order the magjaks still and a couple headers. Just waiting for boards. I have some questions that I haven't found any reference to in all my reading. I am thinking about separating the LCD from the HYDRA housing as I want the display viewable outside the aquarium stand but not all the cables. How long a cable can be run to the LCD that will allow it to still function? I assume my control input (IR or buttons) will also be here. Is a project board still the best solution for the futurlec relay boards mcp23008 or is the relay board w/o the transistors better? The BOM only listed the mcp23008 for the lcd interface, but upon thinking about relay control I realized that also needs a mcp23008 and I didn't order those at the time. Perhaps a note at that component on the BOM should be made to reference the fact that additional ones are needed for any additional IO like relay control. I use 24 volts to close remote relays for refill pumps and 24 volt sprinkler valves for ATO and water storage fill in my basement so the futurlec design will allow me to choose which voltage I need to control.
 
Right on the relays it looks like they're rated at 10A for 120v AC. Using kcress's relay derating rule of thumb (50%) I'd not put more than 5A of load on one of those relays.

They need 20A @5v each. Times 8, you could be sucking 160mA. Doesn't sound like a lot but the 5v reg on the Hydra mainboard is already a bit taxed, so keep that in mind. One advantage of 12v relay boards is that they FORCE you to use a separate power supply so you're not wrecking the reg on the hydra.

To interface with that, you need 8 TTL I/O ports. You could wire it directly to free ports on either of the Hydra's AVRs but a much better solution would be to use a breakout based on one of the available protocols, i.e. I2C. The RelayBoard module discussed several pages back (design files on the google code repo, linked on the wiki) is ideal. It has an MCP23008, which there is already code for, and transistors for each I/O pin, so you can take the load off the IC itself (which is good since you'd be over it's current limit if you switched all 8 channels on at once).
 
discussmith said:
How long a cable can be run to the LCD that will allow it to still function? I assume my control input (IR or buttons) will also be here.
Click to expand...

How long do you need it to be? Will there be any other wiring in the area or anything noisy (from an electronic standpoint)? I've never used more than a few inches but I can't imagine a problem in a typical setup.

Is a project board still the best solution for the futurlec relay boards mcp23008 or is the relay board w/o the transistors better? The BOM only listed the mcp23008 for the lcd interface, but upon thinking about relay control I realized that also needs a mcp23008 and I didn't order those at the time.
Click to expand...

Personally, I would strongly prefer the RelayBoard.
 
Thanks DWZM. I thought the relay board was designed for the chauvet and similar ssr packages with outlets. I thought terahz needed only a mcp23008 on a proto board for the futurlec relays. I need a relay setup that doesn't include outlets as I will need a couple 120v controlled outlets and as many as 4- 24volt outputs. So the relays will allow me to mix the voltages I need. If the relay board will work to contol that fine but I don't need 10 boards so hope I don't have to order them.

I would like to wall mount the lcd near the top of the aquarium and keep all the other related cabling, (PH,Temp,Relays,Multi-Powers in and out) in their own enclosure and out of site. It would require a cable to the lcd section 3 to 4 ft. It could be a shielded cable to avoid noise I imagine. I just was more concerned about signal loss due to distance?
 
Last edited:
Relays

Relays

der_wille_zur_macht said:
Right on the relays it looks like they're rated at 10A for 120v AC. Using kcress's relay derating rule of thumb (50%) I'd not put more than 5A of load on one of those relays.

They need 20A @5v each. Times 8, you could be sucking 160mA. Doesn't sound like a lot but the 5v reg on the Hydra mainboard is already a bit taxed, so keep that in mind. One advantage of 12v relay boards is that they FORCE you to use a separate power supply so you're not wrecking the reg on the hydra.

To interface with that, you need 8 TTL I/O ports. You could wire it directly to free ports on either of the Hydra's AVRs but a much better solution would be to use a breakout based on one of the available protocols, i.e. I2C. The RelayBoard module discussed several pages back (design files on the google code repo, linked on the wiki) is ideal. It has an MCP23008, which there is already code for, and transistors for each I/O pin, so you can take the load off the IC itself (which is good since you'd be over it's current limit if you switched all 8 channels on at once).
Click to expand...

I got this relay http://www.ebay.com/itm/390369130004?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 and was wondering if the same would apply? The board is powered by a 12v power supply, but I guess it still needs 15-20mA from the controller itself? Don't really understand how these boards work, just that they do with some wires and connecting everything up.
 
NarumiHayaashi said:
I got this relay http://www.ebay.com/itm/390369130004?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 and was wondering if the same would apply? The board is powered by a 12v power supply, but I guess it still needs 15-20mA from the controller itself? Don't really understand how these boards work, just that they do with some wires and connecting everything up.
Click to expand...

That's a 12v relay board. You MUST use a 12v source and some sort of interface between the microcontroller and the relays, the 5v from the uc won't operate the relays (correctly at least). That's basically the style of relay board I was referencing in my second paragraph above. This is basically the exact sort of relay pack the RelayBoard was designed for, since it allows you to use a separate power source and has transistors onboard to switch it.
 
discussmith said:
Thanks DWZM. I thought the relay board was designed for the chauvet and similar ssr packages with outlets. I thought terahz needed only a mcp23008 on a proto board for the futurlec relays. I need a relay setup that doesn't include outlets as I will need a couple 120v controlled outlets and as many as 4- 24volt outputs. So the relays will allow me to mix the voltages I need. If the relay board will work to contol that fine but I don't need 10 boards so hope I don't have to order them.
Click to expand...

The RelayBoard was really designed to be a totally flexible I/O expansion unit - allowing I/O at any voltage and above the current capabilities of the AVR itself. That relay pack sounds appropriate given your mixed use, but I'd still favor the RelayBoard over an MCP23008 on a proto board because you're gonna be at or near the current limit of the MCP23008. Even though you don't need higher voltages, you probably DO need higher currents - that's where the transistors on the RelayBoard come in to play. You'd just give them 5v instead of 12v or whatever.

I would like to wall mount the lcd near the top of the aquarium and keep all the other related cabling, (PH,Temp,Relays,Multi-Powers in and out) in their own enclosure and out of site. It would require a cable to the lcd section 3 to 4 ft. It could be a shielded cable to avoid noise I imagine. I just was more concerned about signal loss due to distance?
Click to expand...

I don't expect that would be a problem but you can always do a "dry run" with that cable length before committing to it.
 
Again Thanks \DWZM for the reply. I will indeed then go for the relay board. I will get going on the BOM for it as I am still awaiting the hydra board. I have to get some ds18b20 stats anyway. Sucks having all the other components for it but nothing to place them in. I have an UNO so will hook up one of the lcd's to it on a cable for a test.

With the relay board in mind anyone wishing to unload a couple please e-mail pm, or contact me through here. Otherwise I guess I'll have to contact itead again.
 
der_wille_zur_macht said:
That's a 12v relay board. You MUST use a 12v source and some sort of interface between the microcontroller and the relays, the 5v from the uc won't operate the relays (correctly at least). That's basically the style of relay board I was referencing in my second paragraph above. This is basically the exact sort of relay pack the RelayBoard was designed for, since it allows you to use a separate power source and has transistors onboard to switch it.
Click to expand...

Oh okay, guess another board and parts I must order :) So even though the relay board has a 12 volt source being plugged into it, I still need another 12 volt signal to even be able to switch those relays. Wish they had a schematic or something of the relay to be absolutely sure. Thanks for the help Der_wille!
 
No, the 12v signal to the relayboard IS your 12v source, you don't need a separate 12v source.

Basically the relayboard allows you to provide a control signal (from the mcp23008 via I2C) and a voltage that you want the control signal to switch.
 
how long from itead

how long from itead

For any of you who ordered boards from itead, how long did the shipment take? I received a verification of shipment with a tracking number 2 1/2 weeks ago but when I try to track using the tracking number they supplied I get an "unable to find item" message. I want to place an order for relay boards but would like to see the hydra order first to verify all is ok before I invest any more time and $ with them. It would be nice to know how long I have yet to wait.

FYI for those who may be following still and interested in cabling the lcd away from the hydra board itself, I connected it last night to an UNO with a
6' 20awg cable and it performed as expected.

Is there any info on connecting an input means (buttons or IR) for the hydra, and which is better for incorporating a small menu select type UI?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

A
Aquarium Temperature Control: How I Hacked My Air Conditioner to control my tanks temperatures
Replies
6
Views
325
Naso180
N
R
DIY AI-coded ESP32 based aquarium controller
Replies
0
Views
674
ronnyking
R
E
Neptune DDR diy question for AWC
Replies
3
Views
357
Reefing102
Reefing102
J
Heater controller
2
Replies
23
Views
1K
Dustin07
D
B
Question on Mean Well 3-1 dimming
Replies
15
Views
568
bmichaelb
B
Back
Top