My 1165 Gallon in-wall Display Tank project

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13200971#post13200971 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by woodycb
Wish I owned my own company. ...


Grass is ALWAYS greener on the other side ... even in the desert! :/
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13201648#post13201648 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by wizsmaster
i wondered what happened to this ... glad you're back on track.

What field of software does your company produce?

We primarily make online affiliate software.
 
A few more pics....

Great White RODI from Aqua FX (http://www.aquariumwaterfilters.com):
rodi.jpg


40-50 TDS reading water in:
waterin.jpg


0 TDS reading water out: :D
waterout.jpg


HVAC unit removed and fish room now empty!
emptyfishroom.jpg


HVAC unit now located in the opposite corner of the "main" room in the now very messy basement (will be boxed in with access of course):
movedhvac.jpg


No more duct work in the fish room:
movedducts.jpg


And a quick view from the window in the room opposite the tank's viewing panel (next to the relocated HVAC):
fromwindow.jpg
 
nice property John, and great incoming TDS...are you on a well?

So tell us about all the extra valving on your water supply!
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13212553#post13212553 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jnarowe
nice property John, and great incoming TDS...are you on a well?

So tell us about all the extra valving on your water supply!

Thanks :)

Yep, thats well water after a softener w/ carbon.

Thats the supply lines for the whole room. The spigots are there now just in case I need some hot, cold, or a mix pre-RODI. Eventually it'll be branched off to a few places.
 
SOmething to keep in mind (if you don't already know) is that while well water can have excellent "TDS", it may have other elements that burn up resin, like the very common CO2. If you find you are going through a lot of resin, you might look into this. A de-gassing tower is usually the best method for CO2.

All the info. I have accumulated regarding RODI is that you should not "pre-mix" hot and cold. I really don't understand why, but I use a 200' length of supply line coiled in my holding tank to help bring the water temp. up. My incoming is 45F Winter and 55F Summer, so I have to kick it up a bit.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13212983#post13212983 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jnarowe
SOmething to keep in mind (if you don't already know) is that while well water can have excellent "TDS", it may have other elements that burn up resin, like the very common CO2. If you find you are going through a lot of resin, you might look into this. A de-gassing tower is usually the best method for CO2.

All the info. I have accumulated regarding RODI is that you should not "pre-mix" hot and cold. I really don't understand why, but I use a 200' length of supply line coiled in my holding tank to help bring the water temp. up. My incoming is 45F Winter and 55F Summer, so I have to kick it up a bit.

Thanks. Had no idea on either of those points. I will definitely look into them and keep a closer eye on the resin lifetimes.
 
Hooked up a second RODI storage tank today that I'll use to make up saltwater for now.

Started building a "salt mixing" tower for it. i.e. a pump and a bunch of pvc to circulate the water within the tank.
 
Have you seen mine or Weatherson's? And there are many more good examples. I also have a couple of vids describing the system and process if you want more ideas.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13226131#post13226131 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jnarowe
Have you seen mine or Weatherson's? And there are many more good examples. I also have a couple of vids describing the system and process if you want more ideas.

I've seen your main build thread but didn't notice a mixing system. Would love to see it.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13226568#post13226568 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jnarowe
you want it posted here? It's hard to find that stuff on my thread.

You're more than welcome to if you have it handy. If not I'll read through your thread again tonight and find it :)
 
Just set-up a 1144 gal system 10'X5" X36" high. Took down a 600 gal SPS system ,12 years old that seams were beginning to fail. I did two things unique on this tank. ADHI in Denver built the tank out of 11/2 in acrylic. I put in two dry boxes inside the tank next to the overflow box with 3/4" acrylic. On each side I have three vortec pumps on a chevaut timer that creats a gyro affect in the tank. Great flow for the 10' length. I added a Tunze 6301 pump in a stream rock three quaters of the way down the tank to help with the gyro effect. The tank has been up about a month and I have not had to ue the Tunze at this time. The cord is burried under the gravel so no external pumps or closed loop needed. I can have Jake Adams e-mail you pictures of the design if you wish. Because of the tank height I may add a fourth vorted (total 4 on each side) if needed.

Other neat thing I incorporated was no major acrylic bracing on the top. We used a metal brace completely surrounding the top with two 3' cross members. The metal was specially treated and powdercoated to prevent rust. The top is completely open for NO light restriction.I use 4 AquaMedic lights (48" 2 250wattDE 14K phoenix and ! 150DE 20K) two on each side about 8-10" from glass viewing area/ Down the middle I run 2 PFO ligt fixtures with 2 each 400 Watt Radiums and 2 4' VHO actinic . The lighting is great, no restrictions of acrylic and off the viewing area to cut down on algae on acrylic. Hopes this helps after many large tank projects I feel I have maximized ease of maintenance and simplicity. Steve
 
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