My 150 Reef Photo Journal

The plumbing for my 150 is as plain jane as can be. Only one pipe from the overflow box and a return. I did include a lip plate on the sump and made the lip larger on the corner where the connection is for the flow into the sump. I added a bulkhead there so I could change the length of the nipple from the bulkhead into the sump so adjustment could be made if I didn't like the noise of splashing water but enough to get good oxygen exchange by some splashing.

81613Sump.jpg
 
Here are some pics of the thing in action. It's silent in operation and skims the thinnest layer of the surface.

Overflowtrough.jpg


The Quarter test.
Quartertest.jpg
 
Another update; the oceans motions 4way is on it's way as well as the HDPE to put down on the bottom.

I spoke at length with Paul from Oceans Motions about my setup and I'm going with version 3.
 
Hey Dan,

Version 3 was the one I was looking at. Originally I was debating on version 2 as well. What did Paul say that convinced you to go to version 3?

Do you have any pics of your over-the-top return? What are you using to angle the water back? My plans were similar, but I have an extra tee at the rear of the tank (pointing into the tank) before it ends on a 90 towards the front of the tank. I like the look of whatever it is you have at the end of your 90. Is it a locline piece?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7202695#post7202695 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dtaranath
Hey Dan,

Version 3 was the one I was looking at. Originally I was debating on version 2 as well. What did Paul say that convinced you to go to version 3?

He didn't really say much. From his answer and his tone it sounded like this was the only way to go for me.

Do you have any pics of your over-the-top return? What are you using to angle the water back? My plans were similar, but I have an extra tee at the rear of the tank (pointing into the tank) before it ends on a 90 towards the front of the tank. I like the look of whatever it is you have at the end of your 90. Is it a locline piece?
Click to expand...

My over the top return from the sump? It's a slip x fpt 90 with the mpt loc-line screwed into it. I have the 3" flair nozzles but I don't think they are on in the pic
 
Hey Dan, How is the install on the MP going?

I swapped out all my 3/4" to 1" elbow,ball valve,union, fittings and lines to the MAG18 for the Skimmer still makes the exact same noise:mad2: Oh well....
 
Damn, I figured that would've done the trick. Is that bulkhead a 3/4" or 1"?

Yesterday I went to Lowe's and Ace Hardware to get all the plumbing for the Ocean Motions, another 75 bucks in PVC, lol.

A quick observation on unions; yes they do restrict the flow somewhat because the ID is not the same as the ID on the PVC pipe. What I discovered is that the unions from Lowe's which are made by American Valve restrict ALOT more than the unions I found at Ace Hardware. The brand that Ace carries is kbi I think, which is the same as the gate valve I got to mod my skimmer. Of course the ones from Ace are more expensive but at this point who's counting?
 
Another update. I just ordered the rest of my lighting except for the halide bulbs, still working on that. Can't decide if I want XM 10k DE's or Reeflux 10k DE's. Sanjay does not have the PAR data on Reeflux bulbs on his site yet.

My lighting will consist of 2 x 250 DE MH on IceCap ballasts with ROIII+ pendants. Along with 4 x 54 T5's (two actinic and two blue plus) with IceCap hardware and SLR reflectors. This should be plenty of light even on my 30" tall tank. We'll see.....
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7253172#post7253172 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by GoldStripe
Another update. I just ordered the rest of my lighting except for the halide bulbs, still working on that. Can't decide if I want XM 10k DE's or Reeflux 10k DE's. Sanjay does not have the PAR data on Reeflux bulbs on his site yet.

My lighting will consist of 2 x 250 DE MH on IceCap ballasts with ROIII+ pendants. Along with 4 x 54 T5's (two actinic and two blue plus) with IceCap hardware and SLR reflectors. This should be plenty of light even on my 30" tall tank. We'll see.....
Click to expand...

Can I ask why you are going with icecap ballasts for the MH? They are the most expensive and aren't the best performer. Also from everywhere and everyone ive heard, the reflux 10k gives out the most PAR. There was a site that had the PAR readings posted about a month ago and their PAR was alot higher from what I remember.
 
After doing a lot a reading on Sanjay's and other sites I opted for these for a couple of reasons. One of which is the ability to fire any 250 watt bulb. If I wanted an SE setup I could still use the ballasts. They do not push the bulb or "overdrive" it like some ballasts do. I like the smaller size and they put out virtually no heat. I think they also a lot more effecient in power consumption.

I just looked at a couple of ballast for 250w MH.
Blueline magnetic 250 = 139.00
PFO HQI 250 = 119.00
Ice Cap MH 250 = 115.00

I know there are cheaper ones out there but just as an example. Plus with IceCap, the service and support is top notch. They have a sponser forum in here as well.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7251251#post7251251 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by GoldStripe
Thanks Linn, trying to figure out this maze of plumbing right now. LOL
Click to expand...

It's kinda sickening how much money you end up spending on plumbing. I also noticed the Lowe's unions have a small ID, but I compared them with the ones at home depot.

I don't even want to add up all my plumbing expenses.
 
You guys should keep track of all of your expenses just for kicks. You don't have to tell anyone :D

All I can say is figure $25/gallon just for starters :eek1:
 
This is coming along nicely Dan....Guess you should have quit working a while ago :lol: J/K

Did you go w/ the ATIs for T5s? I don't think you need the extra PAR the GEs have we were talking about. You've got a ton of light already! I look forward to seeing this tank as it grows and matures, it should be top notch for certain.
 
Dan just for thoughts, I've been using ARO ballasts on mine and I really cant say anything negative about them because I haven't judged them against anything else. Their just what I picked up at the time of setting up the system.
I'm running two of them with XM 20ks
Below is the description taken off from Hellolights website.

The ARO electronic ballast is nice looking and best of all, its easy to set up. It will run any 250 watt lamp and comes with a 3 year warranty.

* UL approved
* 250W Electronic Ballast: Energy Saving - up to 25%
* Model #LN-250-02
* Extended Lamp Life - up to 25%
* Consistent Lamp Color
* Uniform Lumen Output
* Reduced Lamp Flicker
* Cool, Silent Operation
* Long Ballast Life
* 120VAC, 250W, 2.2Amps
* Works with all 250W lamps.
* Works with 250W HQI double ended lamps.
* One lamp ballast.
* 3 year warranty.
* Power factor >90%, Lamp Current Crest Factor < 1.8.
* 8 1/2" x 3 3/4" x 2 1/8" (LxWxH)

Just a thought, keep us updated, can't wait to see this thing up and running.
George
 
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