My 180g Acrylic Tank Restoration Project

casshoward

New member
Several months ago, many of you shared my frustrations with my 180gal acrylic bow front. For those who may not recall, I foolishly purchased a long needle sea urchin from a club member who was relocating. The urchin destroyed my display. The 5 little calcified "teeth" (if that's what you call them) scratched all three sides of my display beyond repair.

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The subsequent, adherent coraline algae was IMPOSSIBLe to remove. No one in Memphis would even consider touching a custom, acrylic tank.

So in the spirit of the club, I did it myself! You read it correctly,.... I took Marko's advice and purchased the Micro-Mesh Acrylic Repair kit (sold for acrylic aircraft window repair).

The following posts will share the steps of this project and final results.
 
Before and After: Up Front

Before and After: Up Front

For those of you who are impatient (like me), here is the quick and dirty "before" and "after" pics:

Before

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After

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Yes! I am still smiling! So, how did "WE" (hubby and I) accomplish this feat? Stay tuned...
 
Getting Started

Getting Started

After whining and pouting about the hideous, PETA punishable, monstrosity sitting in my family room, I entertained all possible options:

1. By a new "tank" from Tenacor for approx. $1100(no canopy or stand).
2. Tear the whole tank down and simply download an reef screen saver.
3. Get up the nerve to tackle the project myself with the help of my husband.

I obviously opted for option #3! Marko recommended ordering a DIY kit from Micro-Surface.com. This company sells a system used to restore acrylic windows and windshields of aircraft. I researched and purchased the Heavy Damage Removal Kit. The kit is $121.28 or $88 if you are not too lazy to simply order the kit items separately. (However, you get a plastic storage box if you order the kit. ;) )

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Note: The kit does not include any power tools. I borrowed an Orbital Sander from a friend. Unfortunately, it was not quit the right tool (you'll learn why later ... stay tuned).

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First, Empty the Tank

First, Empty the Tank

So, after watching the "How To" video for this product on YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=micro-surface+finishing+products,+inc&aq=f, we emptied the tank.

I placed all LR in a bath of the tank's saltwater. You may recall I mastered growing majanoes. So, this was a great opportunity to take down the LR and separate the pieces of LR that were heavily affected.

"Good LR" in a 40g Rubbermaid Bin
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"Bad/Majanoe LR" in a storage bin
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The fish, snails, crabs, and a few softies take refuge in a 30g holding tank.
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The sand was removed and also stored in a storage bin.
 
The SANDING phase

The SANDING phase

Next, we began the sanding phase. This involved 6 sequential standing steps. For each step, we attached the appropriate grit of sand paper disc and later, MicroMesh disc to the orbital sander (hook and loop, sorta like velcro attachment) and sanded the front and sides of the display. (I intentionally did not sand the back as I allow the algae to accumulate for my fish to graze.)

The sanding pattern was important. Vertical sanding alternating with a horizontal sanding pattern. Sanding at 120 grit continued until all coraline and algae was removed. Subsequent sanding steps continued until the sanding pattern created by the lower grit was removed. After completing the initial sanding with 120 grit, we increased incrementally to 220, 400, 1500, 2400, and finally 3600 grit. Each step yielded a clear display. See below:
 
120 grit Sandpaper Disc

120 grit Sandpaper Disc

The start and finish of sanding with standard, 120 grit sand paper discs:

120 grit
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Next, 220 grit ...
 
220 grit Sandpaper Disc

220 grit Sandpaper Disc

Next, we sanded with standard, 220 grit sandpaper discs:

220 grit

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Next, 400 grit ...
 
400 grit Sandpaper Disc

400 grit Sandpaper Disc

Next, all three sides of the display were sanded with standard, 400 grit sandpaper.

400 grit
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Next, the MicroMesh sanding disc 1500 ...
 
1500 MicroMesh Sanding Disc

1500 MicroMesh Sanding Disc

The next three disc are the patented, MicroMesh sanding discs. Apparently, they render a better finish than regular sandpaper as they use a flexible adhesive and finer crystals. The first of the three MicroMesh steps is with 1500 grit discs.

1500 grit
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Next 2400 grit MicroMesh ...
 
2400 grit MicroMesh Sanding

2400 grit MicroMesh Sanding

The next sanding step was with 2400 grit MicrMesh. Notice how much clearer the display is getting!

2400 grit
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Next and final sanding step will be 3600 grit ...
 
3600 grit MicroMesh Sanding

3600 grit MicroMesh Sanding

I'm getting tired simply typing this process but we're in the home stretch now .. stay with me! The final "Sanding" step is with 3600 grit MicroMesh. (I clarify because there are still 3 steps left! ... and we still have to put it all back together!) But, you must admit, its looking like it was worth it! At least I think so!!! (Note: The heat from my working lamp steamed up the display. It really is much clearer!)

3600 grit

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Now on to the 2 polishing phases and an anti-static cream wipe down ...
 
Polishing Phase

Polishing Phase

The tank was now polished using a Micro-Gloss Liquid Abrasive. The first polishing step required a Foam Polishing Pad + the abrasive. The next step was using a Black Lambswool TufBuf Polish Pad + abrasive.

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Almost done ...
 
Oops! My One Mistake!

Oops! My One Mistake!

The Heavy Damage Removal Kit included a foam back-up pad. This pad was to be attached to the orbital sander and all sanding discs attached to it. the orbital sander I borrowed could not accept the male, 5mm shaft of the bcd-up pad so I did not use it.

Well, it was included for a reason!

When you attach the 5-inch disc to the hook attachment on the sander (basically, the hard, plastic side of velcro), the hook material sticks out and can scratch the surface as you sand. Below are pictures of the damage it creates! Thus the Oops! :sad2:

New, Spiral Scratches

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Yes, I could have dropped back down to 120 grit sand paper and start over -- NOT! The swirls are nearly invisible when you fill the display with water! I consider them my Medal of Valor in the war on acrylic damage! (Okay, not really but No I did not start over!)

The final step involved wiping the treated surface with an antistatic cream to prevent particle build-up. I wasn't really sure this was need of a water filled box but I did it.
 
Final product!

Final product!

In the end, I was very pleased with our efforts. See below:

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Next, reload the display ...
 
Sand storm and silt mess

Sand storm and silt mess

I learned what happens we you disturb 7-year old sand. You get a fine, sandy mess when it settles!

Sand storm
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Fine layer of sand dust, later suctioned off.
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Are you tired yet? Read-on...
 
Cass' 180g Acrylic Restoration Project - FINAL Shots

Cass' 180g Acrylic Restoration Project - FINAL Shots

I admit, about 150#s of LR w/majanoe have not been dipped in fresh water or baked yet so it has not been returned to the display. However, everything else has been returned and our family room is once again therapeutic. I also took this time to replace all light bulbs, UV bulb, and finally install my VorTech 40 pumps (love them!).

Full Display View
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Left side
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Center view
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Right side
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In closing, for all you plastic tank lovers like myself, known that there IS hope. If I can do it, you definitely can! Although it was a lot of work, I'd do it again without reservation.

P.S. Look out frag tank brethren, I'm ready to repopulate! Looking for LPS and softies. Hammers, Torch, Frogspawn, etc. Give a yell if interested in parting with some or all!

Cass
 
Several months ago, many of you shared my frustrations with my 180gal acrylic bow front. For those who may not recall, I foolishly purchased a long needle sea urchin from a club member who was relocating. The urchin destroyed my display. The 5 little calcified "teeth" (if that's what you call them) scratched all three sides of my display beyond repair.

IMG_0325.jpg


IMG_0324.jpg


The subsequent, adherent coraline algae was IMPOSSIBLe to remove. No one in Memphis would even consider touching a custom, acrylic tank.

So in the spirit of the club, I did it myself! You read it correctly,.... I took Marko's advice and purchased the Micro-Mesh Acrylic Repair kit (sold for acrylic aircraft window repair).

The following posts will share the steps of this project and final results.

WHAT CLUB MEMBER WAS THAT?
 
That Floridian will forever remain anonymous!

P.S. The urchin did live a happy life and nearly tripled in size (as you can see)!
 
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