My 280g Custom upgrade.....
- Thread starter SPotter
- Start date
Ahh stupid me! The stand is the issue not the really the tank. There an age build where they made a stand in two pieces for the guy. Or you can have a welder bring it in two and then just weld it together.
This is generally not an issue and I know I've asked you before so not being annoying but there has got to be someway to have anther entrance to this house that is bigger than 36". Maybe a double patio door or something? Not even for the tank but just stuff in general like appliances and furniture.
This is generally not an issue and I know I've asked you before so not being annoying but there has got to be someway to have anther entrance to this house that is bigger than 36". Maybe a double patio door or something? Not even for the tank but just stuff in general like appliances and furniture.
Last edited:
SPotter
Active member
We have a 5ft french door that will lead out to our screened in deck on the back of the house but the entry door to the deck is only 36" :headwally: Im leaning towards the 30" wide tank and then do a 40" high stand. Once the house is sheet rocked I'll go over and tape out the different dimensions and see what will look good.
phk36
Member
Steve, I follow many of the large build threads but do not post much. I have a 60x32x24 3/4 tank with an internal over flow. The stand is 40 inches high. The 40 inch is great for standing next to the tank and looking at it across the room but is harder to clean . I am short at 5' 8" so it is not easy for me but nice to look at. I would have used an external over flow if I had to do it again. I think if you went with the 36" deep tank you will be very happy. You can remove the sliding glass door and the stationary panel as they are made to come out to be replaced if need be. I replaced many in the past , you can ask the builder for some tips. You can get new suction cups at Grainger for around $60 new I would get the woods with the metal handle not the plastic.
You can remove the deck rail section and put it back and if you move just reverse every thing. I have two cups you can use you just have to pay the shipping to you and back . The 36" deep will be so much nicer for larger fish to swim and you can have killer rock work as well . Good luck , Pete
You can remove the deck rail section and put it back and if you move just reverse every thing. I have two cups you can use you just have to pay the shipping to you and back . The 36" deep will be so much nicer for larger fish to swim and you can have killer rock work as well . Good luck , Pete
Mark...
Member
Not to hijack, but curious why you would change from an internal to external overflow?
Mark...
Member
I see, I guess its always a trade off. Tank space vs against the wall space.
Alex T.
Active member
Haven't been on your thread in a while, but since I've got some construction experience I thought I'd chime in...
Get the dimensions you want and bring the tank in before the door is installed. Without the jamb and door frame in the way you'll have more than enough room to have your 36" width, and any height you want. Put the tank in the first room that's drywalled on a 2x4 frame with locking caster wheels. Then, build yourself a plywood box and cover the tank, screwing the box to the 2x4 moving cart. Lock the wheels down, and spray paint "Fragile, glass aquarium" on all the sides. The tank will be safe behind 3/4" plywood and will be next to impossible to tip over. If it's in the way of any planned construction, unlock the wheels and roll it wherever you want. Then, when you need it to be lifted to its' final resting place just wheel it to the right spot, move it into place and disassemble the cart. To protect wood floors (if they're installed before you move the tank) get yourself some roofing paper and lay it on the route you'll be moving the tank through. On top of the paper lay a couple sheets of lauan underlayment so you don't damage the floors from the weight of the tank on 4 wheels.
Just sayin'.
SPotter
Active member
Thanks for chiming in Alex. That was one of the first questions I asked them when I found out I couldn't make any changes to the door width. They wont allow me to have it delivered prior to closing. I even offered to have them sign a damage waiver but they won't go for it.
Funny you should ask Henry! I've been out at the house the last two nights dealing with some issues involving some other structural changes that they would allow and we paid for but were not done.
I think I got it straightened out so here are some pictures.....
Future site of the tank and its already got water on the floor....
Back yard view.....
owenspackman
New member
I think I got it straightened out so here are some pictures.....
Future site of the tank and its already got water on the floor....
Back yard view.....
here are the photos so everyone can see them. Tapatalk doesn't play nice!!
By the way, my opinion is, go as big as you can with the tank, just have the cabinet built inside the house like i did, just means you can never move!!
SPotter
Active member
Just remember you said that when you're helping me carry a 700lb tank in my house.
SPotter
Active member
Thanks Mike! Sure would love to see more pictures of my old tank :hmm5:
Ya I'm overdo for an update lol. Not a lot of activity over the past few weeks. Just doing some little tweaks and researching skimmers. The tank went through the normal early diatoms bloom and I'm getting a little cyano but overall it is coming along nicely. I mentioned to my wife that it doesn't look that big anymore and boy did I get a look.
SPotter
Active member
Be happy that she didnt turn that one around and say it about you...:spin3:
LOL....I tried that with her already and her response was "there will be no floods with this tank right???" Hopefully that will be partly correct. I have narrowed the tank builder search down a little and I am waiting on one more quote before making the final decision. If I go with the builder I am leaning towards they make a waterproof drip pan that is molded to fit in the stand. Since I wasnt able to put a drain line in the floor, I have two ideas that I am working on since I will be running a couple of conduits and pex lines from the garage to the tank.
1.) see if I can put a bulkhead in one of the side walls and plumb that to the pex line that would drain into a brute can in the garage.
2.) if I cant do the bulkhead then use a water sensor program with the apex to turn on a pump that is sitting in the pan that will pump the water down the pex line and into the brute can in the garage.
My concern with both of these is running an external pump for the tank and what will happen to it if either of these options end up not doing what I want them to do and the pump sits in water. I am considering using internal DC pumps for my returns because of their energy effeciency and reduced noise. I have been checking threads nightly for feed back on these pumps since they are new. I am seeing mixed reviews based on performance and reliability.
Rotknee
Member
Just thinking outloud...
Just thinking outloud...
What about having the tank built on site? Taking the cost of movers into consideration, potential damage to the property, the frustration of any unforeseen mishaps, it may be worth your while to invest in an onsite build. Either way, I am looking forward to the project.
<O
I am sure we will get a chance to talk "lighting options" at a later time.
<O
<O
Congrats on the new property.:thumbsup:<O</O
Just thinking outloud...
What about having the tank built on site? Taking the cost of movers into consideration, potential damage to the property, the frustration of any unforeseen mishaps, it may be worth your while to invest in an onsite build. Either way, I am looking forward to the project.
<O
I am sure we will get a chance to talk "lighting options" at a later time.
<O
<O
Congrats on the new property.:thumbsup:<O
</O
