My 300 gallon acrylic tank

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I was going to get light mover but because every time I do something that involves drilling holes in the ceiling the wife complains.She already isn't to thrilled about the size of the tank and sump.So I opted for to separate fixtures.I may get 150 watt MH bulbs(2 of them) just to get a little shimmer I will see.I didn't want a canopy because its a pain to lift if you have to get in the back or bottom of the tank.I don't think lifting a 4 ft fixture will be that hard.I have covers for the top of the tank.I will see if I am going to use them.This way the entire tank will be covered but the sump area will be open.I will have to see about that because the heat from the lamps might raise the tank temp.I will be looking at this before any corals are added.I want to figure out any potential problems before livestock gets added.
 
So have you decided what lights you are going to use? I am really thinking about thoes soloar things. I am just not to thrilled about cutting a hole in the roof. I am not to concerned about the ceiling.

I like how you seperated your sand beds. Great idea about checking all your parameters and water temp before going crazy with the livestock. I am just trying not to get a chiller myself.

Great Job on keeping the pics coming. Great Work..
 
I think you will find that the tank covers will quickly become salt encrusted and block quite a bit of light. It will also limit gas exchange and trap heat. That could work against you.

I get a little wary about handling electrical devices around SW, so that would be my main concern, but I also add that tank maintainance can be difficult and when things restrict your movement around and over your tank, over time that can reduce your motivation and your system may suffer for it. No lecture about it from me, but just passing on my personal experiences.
 
i noticed the tank is on concrete floor, will you be using any wood w/ foam padding? then if wood and foam was used you would probably need to make the fittings higher :D
 
Yes I was going to put the tank on wood or foam but I will have to raise the fittings(I didn't glue them)I was going to leave it on the cement is there a problem with that.The sump isn't 100% level but its not that bad either.Its a 125 gal tank and my partitions are 17 " in height.I may put some Styrofoam insulation around the tank for the winter months.The garage has a heater but its still a bit cold.Since the glass isn't touching the floor I don't know how cold the tank will get.I guess that depends on the room.Like I said I will see if I have to insulate.I don't know if I will use those acrylic tank covers.I am thinking humidity will create salt creep.I only have about an inch from the water surface to the top of the tank.I think the only way to clean the top is a squeegee.Eric 3000 I think I may go all T5 I am concerned about the direct heat of an MH bulb on acrylic.I know that T5 give off just as much heat but its over a larger surface area.I may go with 2x 150 watt Mh per fixture just to get a little shimmer.Gas exchange?Well I have the entire sump area for that plus the water falling from the sump.I forgot to mention My skimmer will be using a dart NW pump so thats more heat to the tank plus now I will run and external pump for my return.Does anyone have any ideas as to what pump I should go with for my return.It has to be a 1" inlet 3/4" outlet.Thank you for all the nice comments and the critique(Jnarowe) I feel as if I am being graded for my school project.
 
I am not going to use a sequence pump is to big.I only have about 4 ft of head loss.Plus the sequence pumps require a larger hole.I am not going to drill a bigger hole in the sump so we will have to go with a 1" inlet pump.Now what pump shall we use.Is the fact that my tank is on cement a problem.Will it cause me any problems with the plastic bracing.Please feel free to comment or critique(jnarowe this means you) Cbui2 you can also critique,the more the merrier.It helps to get different opinions.Thank You all.I have done nothing with the tank today.I came home late and pretty tired from work so it was a long day.I sat on a plank all day and my *** and back are soar.
 
I am using a dart for my return like a lot of people here. It sounds like a nice quiet pump that isn't a hog on electric. I guess you don't feel like drilling it again.
When you drilled your tank did you use a whole saw or a bit on a drememl I don't remember. I just bought a tile bit and still am not too sure. They had a diamond bit for etching but it said not for drilling. The head looked flat compared to the tile bit
 
yeah it's hard to say about it being on the cement. If it were me, I would have placed it on a styrofoam sheet. I put all my tanks on them, but, some glass tank manufacturers specifically state to not do that because it can add stress to the glass.

The fact is, the cement may provide some temp. control so there is no way to really know until you get it up and running through all the seasons. Because cement will allow moisture through, you may end up with mold on the underside of the tank.

If you are not going to use a Sequence, I guess the next best thing would be an Eheim 1260. I can't figure out how you only have 4 ft. of headloss though. That is surprising to me.
 
Height wise my stand is 28 " and the tank is another 24" then the sump is 22" and maybe another 6 " because my garage is slightly lower than my basement floor. I am thinking 4 to 5 feet of vertical head loss.I am not talking horizontal.In all my basement floor isn't much higher than my garage floor.We used 2x4 and plywood for the basement floor.There is tar paper and the floor was leveled.There is a foam and carpet on top of the plywood.So there may be about 4" to 5" of height difference between my basement floor and my garage.Maybe 8" lets say.I was thinking something like a iwaki pump.Eric my tank was already drilled when I bought it so it came with a 1" hole.Rather than enlarge it I figured I will get a pump to fit that size.I was going to use a mag 24 .I have a mag 18 witch was fine on my 150gal.The dart pump wouldn't be a bad idea but then I have to dremel the hole larger.
 
Well, I have heard those are good pumps, but for about the same price you can get a Dart. The Dart ($229) is rated at 3600 gph at 135 watts where the Panworld is rated at 1100 gph at 180 watts. There's just no cmparison IMO.
 
Well how would I enlarge the hole.I would have to use a dremel.More work.You are right less wattage more water and good price.What bit do I have to buy to enlarge the hole.Maybe I can leave it as a drain (for water changes and drill another hole for 1 1/2" bulkhead) but then I will go from 1 1/2" to 3/4".I think thats not good.I will see what I will do.I don't think the dart would be good for me .To reduce to 3/4" is kind of restrictive.
 
I found this pump its a bit pricey but the size is good and its made by sequencehttp://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewItem~idProduct~MM1120.htmlI also see its burns to much power.
 
Look on the MDM/Sequence web site for the right pump. You can always T off the out flow and have some return to the sump. That's what I do to maintain sump levels and provide an easy prime. Then you won't have to re-drill the tank. But if it were me, I would try to utilize one of the better ones. That one you pointed to uses too much power for too little water flow IMO.
 
Yes thats what I saw the wattage is insane.The dart is the best all around but when you restrict the size I think the pump isn't as effective when it comes to electricity.I am not sure of that but I would imagine that..What you said about using some of the return for the sump is a good idea.The other sequence pumps use less wattage.I found other pumps that aren't bad but none give the same amount of flow.I could also feed my skimmer with the return pump witch isn't a bad idea.Do I need that much flow for my return line?How much flow can 2x 1 1/2" drains handle.
 
Dam you Jnarowe you always have to be right.The dart pump is the best option for the money.Now I have to get someone to drill my sump.The sump I bought was drilled.I didn't get them to drill it.I guess someone ordered it and then changed there mind.The 125 gal tank cost me $300 tax in.I didn't think it was that expensive.It wasn't cheap mind you but if I was to get an acrylic sump those aren't cheap either.Just buying the acrylic to make the partitions cost me close to $100.My MY how the money just vanishes from my pocket.Why did I get back into this hobby?I will get the dart and get the tank drilled.Where can I get a drill bit to drill it myself? What should I do with the 1" bulkhead.Leave it as a drain for water change?Any ideas
 
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