My 300 gallon acrylic tank

[jnarowe]

Paul, most snails sold in the hobby are not appropriate for captive reefs. If you follow my home page link, you will see a link to Project DIBS, where there is ample explanation. I don't want to derail this thread. PM me if you want.

Steve, the way I see it, is if you can commit to vacuuming the sand in the display and replacing it over time, you should be OK. One thing I would suggest is that you not have the rocks sitting in the sand. Doing that will not allow flow around them. My tank is currently moslty BB with sand just in the viewable areas. You can do the same, or mount your rock on racking, PVC legs, etc. to to get them off the sand and allow more flow around the rocks.

 

[jnarowe]

OK...I think we have all passed "geek" and are headed for "freak"...

 

[Hop]

I dunno... The sand thing goes both ways and I wish that the answer was more evident. The thread about the 800 gallon tank in operation for 8 years, now over ten has a SB and if I recall correctly, it's all just placed in the tank. I'll have to go back and verify. But, why is his and others so successful and others are not? Not to turn this into a SB debate, I just hate the looks of bare-bottom tanks and I like the diversty of life with SB related critters. I guess it comes down to preference and the fact that I'm willing to tear a tank apart down the road to have them... Heck I can't even keep any one tank running for two years before I have to tear it down:lol:

 

[Bebo77]

cant wait to see this thing filled up...

 

[steve the plumb]

I think i will leave the sand in.I may take some out where I want to place my rocks.This way I will have less sand underneath the rocks plus I don't have to buy more sand.I will see maybe I may leave it as is.I will have to follow the tank once its mature then see.I will buy the nitrate reactor.I have heard good things about the H&S.They seem to do a good job at keeping nitrates down.I thought about doing the pvc leg thing I don't know if I want to do that.I think tanking out some sand now would be less of a pain than once its filled with rock.I should get in gear and do that.I hate doing things twice.I did drill the holes.I am missing some 3/4" fittings to finish (part off) my return.One of the holes was off and I didn't want to break more just for 3/4" pipe.I can finish it with a 22 or a 60 here is a pic of the hole.I left plastic inside the hole so my wife doesn't have a fit(she hasn't seen the hole she is going to freak.

 

[steve the plumb]

here is a closer look.I also screwed in some plywood on the wall so I can hang my monitors and other stuff.This way everything will be in the garage.

 

[jnarowe]

You did pretty well on the holes but I bet it wasn't fun. What about foaming in the holes? In fact, adding some fine metal mesh would be a good idea too to keep rodents from using your nice new holes.

 

[Hop]

Yeah, the bubble wrap only distracts them while they pop a few and giggle

 

[steve the plumb]

you guys make me laugh.The bubble wrap was left over from my 8 way.I just wanted something to cover the holes.I drilled 4 or 5 holes and then chipped away.All in all it took 2 hours to do everything.I will use the foam.I may leave a spot open to pass some plugs.I will see.I was thinking of using foam to fill the holes.If I had taken my time to measure I could of made the holes exact but who needs that.I wanted to get the most out of my tool rental.It cost $67 with the drill and a 2 5/8" drill bit.The holes were ok.I got kind of tired after the first one but then I got a second wind and I sat down on my table saw while I was drilling so I tryed to be as lazy as I could without haveing the drill get stuck on me.

 

[lancepender]

:fish1: Very nice so far.. Keep up the good work..:fish1:

 

[TandN]

Steve sweet setup looks great

 

[steve the plumb]

Thanks for all the nice comments.Now as far as lighting goes.I was going to go all T5 but then reading threads people who have both have a nice look to the tank and corals.I have read some posts and the problem with acrylic tanks is when using mh the heat causes cracks in the tank and eventually will weaken the tank and cause it to bow(look at Kevin Pro thread)I have read this once or twice and I am concerned.I spent alot of money on this tank(I have yet to fill it) the last thing I want is to have to change it 6 or 7 years down the line.I AM NOT GETTING ANOTHER TANK!!! This will be my final Tank.So as that is said My plan was to get 2 custom 48" fixtures with 2x 250 watt MH and 6x54 watt T5 plus moon lights.I may just go with all T5 like I had planned in the first place.The tank will be easier to cool and The heat will be easier to manage(I hope).The fixture was going to have fans built in.My skimmer guy was going(still is) to make me a pair of acrylic legs(a few inches in height) so that the lights can sit on the tank.I am thinking to go with 12 bulb units or 12 bulbs with one 150 watt mh at least 2x 150 total mh won't be that bad.What do you guys think.I SAY AGAIN THIS IS MY LAST TANK AND I WANT THE TANKS TO LAST FOR MANY YEARS TO COME(we can grow old together)The tank already overpowers my basement,so I am not getting another one.Who needs drugs when you have this hobby.

 

[jnarowe]

:lol: no kidding! First of all I do want to point out that T5 arrays are not neccessarily cooler than halides. I have measured temps as high as 198F on the glass surface of my Aqua-Medic 8 x 54w T5 array. Typically they are mounted closer to the water, as you discuss above, so I wouldn't be too sure that you will not be adding significantly less heat.

As you stated, your unit will have built in fans, so that is a plus, but keep in mind that they will be drawing salt air through the fixture and the fixture itself may have a shorter lifesapn a=than you would expect.

Also, I would find having the fixture on legs on top of the tank a major hassle when trying to do maintainance, aquascaping etc. There are so many cool options for mounting lights so that they can be moved out of the way, I would suggest you do somemore research on this. Plus having the legs sitting on the tank will create a point of contact between an electrical device and your tank.

Check out this T5 Install. Check out my T5 install:

Using the cables allows me to infinitely adjust the lamp height above the tank and this is extremely valuable for controlling how much light a species is getting, and how much heat is being transferred to the tank. More control/flexibility is a good thing!

 

[steve the plumb]

My wife doesn't want me to hang the lights.She doesn't want to see more screws or holes in the ceiling(she is nuts)The acrylic legs that the guy is going to make me will allow me to take the lights off the tank when working on it.Its a pain but I had suspended pendants before and I found unless its on a rail its more of a pain.I got my sump today and started to work on it.Its a 125 gal tank 6ftx18"x22" height.Its drilled so I can put a 1" bulkhead(witch I have) for a return pump

 

[steve the plumb]

I washed the tank and cleaned it and started on the partition.Yes my silicone job wasn't neat.I wasn't in the mood to do a great clean job I had a fight with the wife over the size of the tank and the holes in the concrete wall

 

[steve the plumb]

A pic of the tank.I am not finished with the partitions

 

[steve the plumb]

 

[steve the plumb]

Top view of the drains.I was forced to used more fittings since the tank was higher than my holes.Drains should still work properly

 

[steve the plumb]

A dsb will be on the left side.I might make room for another one on the right side.This way I can clean out one at a time.It will be easier to replace them and not worry about it affecting my bio load since I will have 2 DSB sections.

 

[jnarowe]

yeah...making progress though! I have my display tank lamps on rails too. In fact I am using light movers to move the lamps back and forth during the day.