Had several PM's asking about the LED mod:
Basically I mounted the LED's onto an Aluminium plate. You cannot mount them directly onto the Sunpowers metal chassis as the heat conductivity through that material is only about 3/20 of Aluminium.
I had to cut a rectangle out from the Sunpower using a Dremmel with slim cutting wheels.
Once this was done, I screwed and thermal glued the Aluminium plate onto the chassis of the Sunpower.
The plate and chassis on their own wont disperse the heat. I tested and within 5 minutes the plate was getting very very warm to the touch.
So I ordered 4 VGA graphics card fans and found a few other bits of low profile heatsinks lying around. All I had to do then was glue them down with thermal paste.
I had to upgrade the AC to DC adaptor that runs the two ATI Sunpower fans as I wanted to run the VGA fans off the same power supply. I could have gone with a seperate powersupply but that meant another couple of wires going into the unit somehow...couldnt be arsed with that.
I then wired everything up and here are a few shots:
1. This shows the LED's mounted onto a secondary surface, ie the Aluminium plate:
2. Here I was playing around with the placement of the fans and heatsinks. Not very pretty, but it will do the job.
3. Final shot showing all the lights on at the same time:
The White balance is screwed up and I didnt bother to take custom white balance readings with my DSLR, but from front the configuration is as follows:
Front:
ATI Blue+
ATI AquaBlue Special
24 LED's (20 Royal Blue + 4 Blue)
KZ Fiji Purple
Arcadia 14K
ATI Blue+
The 4 Moonlights are on as well, but you cant see them properly with the main lights on.
I am running the LED's off 2 x Meanwell LPC-35/700 model LED Drivers. These drivers allow 12 x 3watt LED's to be run at 700mA each. The 24 LED's are running at almost 60watts.
So combined with the T5's + LED's, I have about 180watts. Due to this fixture having: Active Cooling + Individual Mirror reflectors for the T5's and a combo of 40,60,80 degree lens for the LED's, without even having measured the PAR, I am confident that PAR will rival or most likely beat most 250w halide setups. I believe I have very good PAR and with the assortment of T5 tubes and LED; a very good spectrum of light for corals.