I wonder if all the native algea growing in the tank also produces aspartic acid when digested, or if it's only the nori..
Well, between the bubble, bryopsis and (recently returned) cyano I have growing - not to mention the dsb, cheato fuge and 12 liters of matrix, I'm sure I could come up with a few nitrates if I had to!! Actually, I do run around 2 ppm at the moment and p is at .07 with po4 absorbers running, so I'm not far off from recommended starting levels for bacto balance..
I recently tried my own version, using kno3, cano3 and np pro.. But I had to use such high doses of nitrates and np pro to get p to budge, I got uncomfortable doing it.. Not to mention excessively high calcium levels..
I don't think it is even readily available in Canada.. I'd probably have to special order it...
I'm thinking seriously about giving it a try... I'm going to look into its availability around here..
Bulent, I'm also curious as to why you would stop using the k+ and only continue with the other.. And while we're at it, what's in the other supplement?
I understood from your post that because you got to a certain dose of bacto balance, you needed to stop the k+ and I don't really understand the relationship between the two..
I'd be curious to have a look at that thread..
Hi Matt,
Nori is seaweed. I am guessing that algae that grow in our tanks cannot be any different unless they are physiologically different. I remember from the Triton literature that reefers are encouraged not to remove algae that grow in their sump, so that when overgrowth eventually dies "it releases amino acids" to water column. I do not know if there is a difference between dying algae or fish excrement that contains algae in terms of their aspartic acid content.
Cyanobacteria have also returned to my tank albeit in small patches (for the time being). Their return coincided with removing half of my sand bed and replacing it with new sand during the deforestation exercise as part of my nutrient export strategy. My action must have disturbed the bacterial balance in the tank. Furthermore, since I increased BB amount from 1.4 ml per day to 1.7 ml and then 2.0 ml per day, there has been rather rapid decline in nitrates as I documented before. I cannot rule out this fairly sudden reduction in nitrogen in water column as another interruption in the delicate balance I managed to achieve.
Referring to your question about my decision to stop K+ dosing, my rationale was two-folds, but before explaining it I would like to clarify the relationship between bacto-balance and K+. According to Hans-Werner Balling, K+ is essential for the growth and colouration of corals. Unlike most other companies that market different products for growth, colouration and nutrient control, Tropic Marin decided to include K+ elements in bacto balance, so that they offer a complete solution to reefers. Essentially, 1 ml bacto balance also contains 1 ml K+. Hans-Werner suggested that their testers reported that until bacto balance dose reaches about 70-80% of the recommended dose, bacto balance did not have colour improvement effect, hence the need to dose further K+ to supplement it. In the light of this, I stopped K+ dose since my daily bacto balance dose has reached 80% of the daily maximum recommended dose. Second, the online book on cyanobacteria cited by Andrew shows a link between cyanobacteria and excess iron. So, I thought perhaps I should lower the iron input to see if it will make a difference. Errm, it did not because I am already dosing iron contained in bacto balance. As of today I have started to dose K+ again, which is only 0.5 ml per day.
The other trace element bottle I use is A- elements. The product contains anionic elements. According to Randy-Holmes-Farley one of the ingredients is in fact not an anionic element (I cannot remember which one). Here is the contents: bromine, fluorine, iodine, lithium, vanadium, molybdenum and selenium in pure mineral form. Iodine is in the form of potassium iodide.
Finally, referring to your second paragraph above in which you described your experiments with different chemicals to control nitrate and phosphates independently with potential side effects, I recently posted the following comment to a fellow reefer on a UK forum who wanted advice on dosing regimen for bacto balance for his net tank volume of 400 litres (sadly it contains some repetitive information and information you are already familiar with as a very experienced reefer. But I did not remove it with the hope that it may benefit to anyone who is less experienced in case s/he reads this post).
I hope this helps.
Bülent
1. Get a 500 ml-Tropic Marin NP-Bacto Balance bottle;
2. Get a 500 ml Tropic Marin K+ elements bottle;
3. Get a 500 ml Tropic Marin A- elements bottle.
Stop using GFO. Use GAC passively in a filter bag in your sump.
Start with a daily dose of 0.5 ml bacto balance (i.e. 0.125 ml per 100 lt). Supplement this with a daily dose of 3.5 ml K+ elements and 4 ml of A- elements. Note that the dosing sum of bacto balance and K+ elements is equal to dosing amount of A- elements. This is because bacto balance also contains K+ elements. After two weeks, increase the daily dose of bacto balance to 1 ml (i.e. 0.25 ml per 100 lt). Supplement this with a daily dose of 3 ml K+ elements and 4 ml of A- elements. Every two weeks you need to increment bacto balance in small steps. Each increase in bacto balance will be matched by a corresponding decrease in K+. A- will remain constant. The big question is when do you stop increasing? The answer is not in the test results. You will need to observe your corals instead. You will see that their polyps will be extended more and their colours will improve. If you observe that your corals' colours start to look pale and/or your tank water starts to look cloudy, do not panic, just go back to the previous dose. Corals will react far more quickly to changes in the water column than your test kits register the same changes. By changing your mode of operation, you will be in tune with your corals. According to Herr Hans-Werner Balling many bacto balance users see positive results before (or when) the dosing reaches 0.5 ml per 100 lt. In your case, I would anticipate that this will be at about 1 ml per day.
One of the bottlenecks of organic carbon-based methodologies is that nitrates are lowered very rapidly. When this happens, facultative heterotrophic bacteria struggles and their ability to consume phosphates diminishes. The same phenomenon occurs when reefers dose nitrates in conjunction with or without GFO. Bacto balance, on the other hand, does not suffer from this phenomenon because the product is designed in such a way that some nitrates and phosphates will always be present in the water column. This implies that accidental starvation of corals is avoided.
As the colours of your corals change from one shade to another, you may wish to take nitrate and phosphate measurements out of interest. You need to remember that we are not guided by specific NO3 and PO4 numbers. We are guided by coral colouration, the degree of polyp extension and skin thickness, which are good indicators of coral health.
I hope this helps.
Bülent
PS. Please observe your sump and dark sections of your tank. You should be able to see an increase in the sponge and barnacles population too. This is of course a welcome news because as you know sponges, barnacles and tunicates convert organics from one form to another, so that undesirable organics are either consumed by bacteria and/or removed by a skimmer.