MY 75 Gallon RR project and soon to be "former setup" DIAL UP BEWARE!

[demon16v]

Solution for the not so “Mega Flow”

Solution for the not so ââ"šÂ¬Ã…"œMega Flowââ"šÂ¬Ã‚

Hey Merv,
I just got through reading your tread and everything looks great so far.
What I did to get the ââ"šÂ¬Ã…"œMega Flowââ"šÂ¬Ã‚ (not so MEGA) to handle a larger pump was 1. enlarge the overflow, like you already did and 2. used a Dremel with a sanding barrel to open the glass to a larger size, where the bulkheads pass through to the sump. They were both opened up to fit a 1.5 bulkhead. This worked great and only took about 5 min for one hole and about 10-15 for the other. The only down side is you will go through 10-15 sanding barrels.
This was for a 90 gal, duel Dursos, 30gal sump with an Iwaki 70, 1500gph, and with the ball value wide open. I used 2 returns with 1/2 Loc-Line with 2 1/2 fan nozzles also. This setup gave good high flow and water movement.

Iââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢m sure that you donââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢t want to take everything apart again but since it is not stocked I would re due the plumbing and make the Iwaki 40 work. IMO a Iwaki 20 is not enough flow for the return especially when you calculate the head loss from the plumbing.

 

[concept3]

Re: Solution for the not so “Mega Flow”

Re: Solution for the not so ââ"šÂ¬Ã…"œMega Flowââ"šÂ¬Ã‚

Hey Merv,
I just got through reading your tread and everything looks great so far.
What I did to get the ââ"šÂ¬Ã…"œMega Flowââ"šÂ¬Ã‚ (not so MEGA) to handle a larger pump was 1. enlarge the overflow, like you already did and 2. used a Dremel with a sanding barrel to open the glass to a larger size, where the bulkheads pass through to the sump. They were both opened up to fit a 1.5 bulkhead. This worked great and only took about 5 min for one hole and about 10-15 for the other. The only down side is you will go through 10-15 sanding barrels.
This was for a 90 gal, duel Dursos, 30gal sump with an Iwaki 70, 1500gph, and with the ball value wide open. I used 2 returns with 1/2 Loc-Line with 2 1/2 fan nozzles also. This setup gave good high flow and water movement.

Iââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢m sure that you donââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢t want to take everything apart again but since it is not stocked I would re due the plumbing and make the Iwaki 40 work. IMO a Iwaki 20 is not enough flow for the return especially when you calculate the head loss from the plumbing.

I did try to rerun the Iwaki 40 again! I simply switched the plumbing and decided to check the flow of the "not so MEGAFLOW"
Every thing ran PERFECT! I must've been doing something wrong with the Dual Dursos because they gurgled and slurped, until I checked out Malcolm's system and he gave me ideas (thanks Malcolm). It didn't do it this time, plus I lowered the larger pipe about 3/4 of an inch. That's how it got majority of the flow.

THE ONLY THING IS: My living room is 8 feet away and I can hear the sump because of the water flow! Edit: It was way too loud for my taste! I like to watch TV at home and not at the beach! So ALAS, I will have to sell the Iwaki 40 after all.

Here are a few pics of all 1200 gallons of water rushing through the Modified Megaflow

Water rushing in the Modified Megaflow

I was afraid that the sump was gonna spill over with bubbles. I should've gotten a 29 gallon tank for the height, but that would have left me with less tinkering space which I like to do often....(yeah right)

This water flow may not look too impressive, but I have SIX 3/4 LOCLINE outlets sitting 3 inches underneath and parallel the water surface aimed towards the overflow. That should roughly be 140-180 gph per outlet (including headloss) IWAKI 40 is 1200gph at 4' head

 

[TA]

With the two durso's and the Iwaki40 running at 1200gph...was any water draining through the 3/4" bulkhead or was all of it through the 1"?

 

[concept3]

very little water through the smaller durso, just enough to compensate for the extra water flow. I WOULD have used the larger pump, but I can't afford to have all that noise especially when I like my peace and DEAD quiet. When I hopefully move to a larger house, I WILL definitely do the same thing over again, but with a MUCH larger tank and pump. My goal is at least 15 to 20 X turnover rate since it will be an all SPS tank AGAIN
I'm trying to get rid of all the powerheads all together for heat and electrical issues.

 

[concept3]

Moonlight install...the "CONCEPT" mod mod

Moonlight install...the "CONCEPT" mod mod

I installed moonlights on my 55 gallon tank a few months back just to give the fish some "nightlight." I am doing the same for this 75 gallon. Back then, I used 4 LED singles bought at Circuit city, courtesy of the Roadshop department. With a bit of ingenuity and patience, I drilled four holes in the 55 gallon's hood and hooked them up to an AC/DC adapter, also bought at Circuit city. They still work, and will be leaving it in the hood when I sell the tank since they are sealed with silicone. They are already aimed towards the center of the tank anyway.

TIME FOR AN UPGRADE!!!

I was walking around Circuit City today and noticed that in the "ricer" :lmao: section of the Roadshop, there were LED "projector-type" lamps. I figured, what the heck....if you can't make em work, they're only $10

Here they are.....AND IT WORKS!!! Not only do they work with the same 12 volt AC/DC adapter, they SWIVEL on a base as well. I got the BLUE LEDS of course...........

ANOTHER "CONCEPT" modification!!!

RAW MATERIALS. Cut off the Cigarette lighter plug, will be hard wired under the hood.

I will be installing two on each side of the Canopy brace.

LEDs can be angled!!! Perfect to highlight that one special coral for you to stare at for hours on end...... night after night after night after night *yawn*

Semi-finished product pre-soldering.


ETA on the TANK TRANSFER:
2 weeks and counting.............

 

[DRZL-sauras]

Your tank looks pimp-tastic man, thanks for all the setup pics, I love these types of threads

 

[TA]

Thats it..........................


I'm runnin' out to Circuit City today!
I've got a spare 12V adaptor...not anymore

Nice...very nice. They're not too brite or too focused, are they????

Thanks

Tony

 

[concept3]

Nope........just perfect. The best part is they swivel, and you have somewhat of a "spotlight" to highlight your center piece or "prized" pieces of coral........

Only problem is, I consider ALL my corals as my prized collections...........LOL

 

[Phyl]

Merv, the stand and canopy look fantastic. I'm getting ready to make a new canopy and was wondering if you could take/post some detailed pictures of the canopy? I'd also like some basic measurements, like how tall the canopy is, how wide it is and how far it is from the back edge to the diagonal on both the top and the bottom. Was there anything that gave you a problem on assembly? I'd also like pictures of the inside with the way the lights are mounted.

Thanks a bunch for sharing your masterpiece with us!

 

[concept3]

HOOD PICS

HOOD PICS

Hey Phil,
I tried to collectively gather what I remember when I started building my stand and hood, but I couldn't remember evrything. I also tried to re-measure the hood and all the dimensions, but I'd rather post some major features up so that you may take an idea and run with it. There is nothing better than your own "conceptual" hood design.... if you know what I mean.

SO SORRY for the size of the pics, I didn't have time to resize them. I'll give you specifics on how I put it together, right now I'm getting sleepy.

 

[mud711]

Ventilation

Ventilation

Nice setup. I also have a 75gl, I did not see any ventilation. With the mh lighting heat may become a big factor. I have two 150w mh plus flourescents and two fans.
Mud

 

[concept3]

Re: Ventilation

Re: Ventilation

Nice setup. I also have a 75gl, I did not see any ventilation. With the mh lighting heat may become a big factor. I have two 150w mh plus flourescents and two fans.
Mud

ya gotta follow the thread. I have 4 holes, two on top, two behind.

 

[mud711]

Sorry bout that!

 

[TA]

I'm running 2x250W MH + 2x95W VHO (actinic) in my canopy. The back is almost (90%) completely open. Running 2x4.5" fans about 50cfm (hard to say for sure because I reduced the voltage to cut down on air, but they blow a significant amount). Even so, although I have yet to add water, I can easily detect a good amount of heat build up in the canopy. Whether its enough to raise the tank temp remains to be seen.

Point: If you gonna go MH, be sure to have GOOD AIR FLOW.

I reduced the voltage to cut down on air

I mean sound...NOT air!

 

[headshrink]

Very cool!
Could you please tell me what kind and size of wood you used on the canopy.... I want to make one based on your design.

 

[steve68]

i have 3 250 w MH & back is 100% open & i have 2 4.5 fans blowing from 1 side to the other.
with my first canopy i had 4 fans but it was 100% closed & heat was an issue.

 

[concept3]

i have 3 250 w MH & back is 100% open & i have 2 4.5 fans blowing from 1 side to the other.
with my first canopy i had 4 fans but it was 100% closed & heat was an issue.

How high were the halides off the water, and what was the photoperiod? My current tank's hood is only 20% open, BUT both computer fans don't blow one in, one out. They BOTH blow out. This gave me another 2-3 degrees in temperature drop. My lights also sit about 9 inches from the water surface. I know people say you KILL your fans quicker due to salt air blowing through, I HAVE 6 of these sitting around the house that my computer-fixing friend gave me. ($2 a piece his cost he says)

The new hood will run with the two behind the halides blowing in when the halides turn ON, and the top ones will be sucking air out on top almost 18 hours a day for evaporation.

 

[concept3]

Very cool!
Could you please tell me what kind and size of wood you used on the canopy.... I want to make one based on your design.

I used Birch plywood as the main "box" since anything that is a composite is stronger than just a single plank. (I got a 4' X 8' 3/4 inch plank for $38 at home depot; All I needed for both the stand and hood were 2 pieces.) You do have to remember that since it has "layers" you'll need to dab an extra dose of paint to seal all the edges that could act as a water condensation sponge. I cut out squares as you can see, and then I SKINNED the whole thing in Plywood. Why all the extra work? I wanted the hood to be lighter so it was easier to take off the tank need be, while retaining its shape just in case it did start getting soaked in condensation.

Give or take my total cost for both the stand/hood were in the range of $140-$190 including hardware and moulding which is EXPENSIVE!

BUT, Having easy access to your tank and having a stand that NO ONE has: PRICELESS!

Hood Dimensions is as follows:
50" long
19" deep
16" high

Materials for Stand and hood:

TWO 4'X8' (3/4")YOUR choice of Plywood (I went with birch, since I thought of using STAIN at first, but changed my mind as I was progressing.)
TWO 2'X4' for Tank stand support/bracing
ONE piece of 4'X4' (1/8") plywood for SKINNING canopy, maybe less
Various 90 degree braces for structural integrity of canopy and stand.

48" long hinge (canopy)
Wood glue.
Drywall screws 1 1/2" and 2"
Moulding.........you get to choose your design. Mine was called a FIREPLACE once

 

[concept3]

Stand was started by making a "box" with the top that closely matched the Foot print of the Tank. It is alos better to go larger than to be short. I used the 90 degree braces to keep the corners in check as well as structural rigidity. I also used liquid nails heavy duty construction glue. Buy the ones you can use with a gun. Much easier. You can use nails at this point, but I needed to use my Makita drill, so I chose to use screws. Use drywall screws as they are cheap and hold a hell of a grip.

The top piece of wood (where the tank sits on) measures 48" long by 19" deep (or wide).

The Left and right sides measure 18" by 33" tall

The Front and Back of the stand was a Whole piece of wood 48" by 31.5"

Construction:

The sides slap on to the top, giving the whole TOP foot print of the stand (where the tank sits on) 49.5" (48" top + 0.75" left + 0.75" right)

The front and back follow suit, it is easier when you are building it, I'm going nuts trying to explain the process.

This is your "box." I then proceeded to glue and screw in the 2 by 4's to support the tank's footprint. The tank WILL NOT sit directly on top of the 2 by 4's, rather, it will sit on the plywood, that the 2 by 4's will be supporting from underneath.

 

[concept3]

As you can see from this angle, the 2 by 4 is being used to support the top piece of plywood. The tank still sits on a flat surface, which IMO is better than an uneven piece, prone to warping in the future.

I used 1" X 2" pine as "legs" for the 2 by 4's. These were all glued and screwed in to the plywood, thereby creating a stronger multilayered composite.

Pretty much that was all. I just cut openings for where I was gonna place the doors with a smaller circular saw. I decided to make the whole back as open as possible, for easier future access for plumbing, evaporation, electrical, etc. The best part was the fact that I used the back "cut-out" as my doors for the front side of the tank, and the "cut-out" for the doors were used as the sides of my hood.