coralfarm'n
New member
do you mean with the 1000 watter
My Chiller Setup **Lots of pictures**
- Thread starter ReefRelated
- Start date
A Reef Scene
New member
That is a great chiller. Thanks for taking the time to post it and the pics.
coralfarm'n
New member
yes Ive about wore it out
Here is a diy plan for a 20x40 greenhouse frame I would like to custom design for coral/fish production/holding
http://bioengr.Ag.utk.edu/Extension/ExtPubs/Plans/6312.pdf
I probably would try a fog system to cool the greenhouse before installing any other cooling system
since Anothony recommends maintaining water temps by ambient temps & fog systems are super efficant at cooling greenhouses and inexpensive to operate and install compared to other type methods
Ive been around alot of greenhouses there is probably 25 30x100 greenhouses a stones throw from my back yard
the tank with the 1000 watter has no glass or brace its a 180 gal the bulb is about 12" above the water with no chiller installed just a 8"fan blowing across one end of the tank
Here is a diy plan for a 20x40 greenhouse frame I would like to custom design for coral/fish production/holding
http://bioengr.Ag.utk.edu/Extension/ExtPubs/Plans/6312.pdf
I probably would try a fog system to cool the greenhouse before installing any other cooling system
since Anothony recommends maintaining water temps by ambient temps & fog systems are super efficant at cooling greenhouses and inexpensive to operate and install compared to other type methods
Ive been around alot of greenhouses there is probably 25 30x100 greenhouses a stones throw from my back yard
the tank with the 1000 watter has no glass or brace its a 180 gal the bulb is about 12" above the water with no chiller installed just a 8"fan blowing across one end of the tank
deputydog95
New member
reefrelated. your pm is off. hit me with an email:
depdog95@tampabay.rr.com
depdog95@tampabay.rr.com
deputydog95, tony/reefrelated is not allowed on this site.
no way would I reduce the capacity of a chiller by reducing the size of the compressor. If you are using a heat pump situation to heat your tank in the winter why change the compressor instead of getting a higher seer rating condensor. this will give you a larger coil. I did not read the article you posted yet so I don't know what they are trying to acclompish but it seems like a waiste of time , effort and money swapping compressors. Figure out and buy what you need the first time around. something is out there manufactured that will work perfectly. trasnfer rates are different for every type of material. This chiller as stated works more efficiently than mass produced systems of the same capacity. Tony's chiller has a capacity very close to 1/2 ton. The metering device is matched to the condensor not the tank or the evaporator or anything else, just the condensor as is the way it is suppose to be done. Efficiency on the other hand can be changed any # of ways which alot of are way over my head. Hopefully you have a knowledgeable refrigeration tech in your life.
no way would I reduce the capacity of a chiller by reducing the size of the compressor. If you are using a heat pump situation to heat your tank in the winter why change the compressor instead of getting a higher seer rating condensor. this will give you a larger coil. I did not read the article you posted yet so I don't know what they are trying to acclompish but it seems like a waiste of time , effort and money swapping compressors. Figure out and buy what you need the first time around. something is out there manufactured that will work perfectly. trasnfer rates are different for every type of material. This chiller as stated works more efficiently than mass produced systems of the same capacity. Tony's chiller has a capacity very close to 1/2 ton. The metering device is matched to the condensor not the tank or the evaporator or anything else, just the condensor as is the way it is suppose to be done. Efficiency on the other hand can be changed any # of ways which alot of are way over my head. Hopefully you have a knowledgeable refrigeration tech in your life.
forgot something sorry.
Who cares if you use a 1 ton compressor in a 1 ton chiller and get 2 tons worth of cooling?
Sounds like one heck of a bonus if you ask me. We are not trying to remove humidity for comfort feel. who cares if it runs for 5 minutes or 10? it will only start again when it needs to which will be the exact same time either way. take the bonus and smile .
Who cares if you use a 1 ton compressor in a 1 ton chiller and get 2 tons worth of cooling?
Sounds like one heck of a bonus if you ask me. We are not trying to remove humidity for comfort feel. who cares if it runs for 5 minutes or 10? it will only start again when it needs to which will be the exact same time either way. take the bonus and smile .
AcroSteve
Make my Funk a P-Funk
I have just made some changes to my plumbing and am now running my return water into the chiller barrel throught the "outlet" port and the water is now exiting the barrel through the "inlet" port.
Would this make much difference? I tend to think not, at least not enough to warrant evacuating the system, re-orienting the barrel and then re-charging it.
Anybody know anything that would make a difference?
Would this make much difference? I tend to think not, at least not enough to warrant evacuating the system, re-orienting the barrel and then re-charging it.
Anybody know anything that would make a difference?
coralfarm'n
New member
melvel
no the fog dont obscure the sun this is the method used in orchid & hydroponic produce greenhouses
its just somthing you'd have to see its not like fog at a rock concert
wet walls(swamp coolers) are also a option but fog cooling is much better
large fans might be enough anyway..theres only one way to find out and Im not dead set on a greenhouse yet though the option is nice to consider and may be the way to go
I did however visit a local supplier of greenhouses & supplies today & liked the prices they had for commercial frames
the frame I priced was 22 x 48 for just $750
the diy one is out the question for me now since I can purchase everything premanufactured localy and aviod the high shipping costs
no the fog dont obscure the sun this is the method used in orchid & hydroponic produce greenhouses
its just somthing you'd have to see its not like fog at a rock concert
wet walls(swamp coolers) are also a option but fog cooling is much better
large fans might be enough anyway..theres only one way to find out and Im not dead set on a greenhouse yet though the option is nice to consider and may be the way to go
I did however visit a local supplier of greenhouses & supplies today & liked the prices they had for commercial frames
the frame I priced was 22 x 48 for just $750
the diy one is out the question for me now since I can purchase everything premanufactured localy and aviod the high shipping costs
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coralfarm'n
New member
rob you should read the artical it explains everything and even has efficancy ratings
they changed the compressor to keep from overheating the coils I think
Im no expert on chillers and was only sharing the artical wrote by experts at Florida State
I may have misunderstood ...this may only apply to the coils they used and not a prefab titanium one
btw I recieve a email back from the pool heater/chiller manufacture who stated the one they distribute was designed for saltwater aquaculter so I quess if I ever did need a big one $3800 shipped for that heatpump at 125000btu would be the logical thing to invest in anyway
Id still love to build one though
they changed the compressor to keep from overheating the coils I think
Im no expert on chillers and was only sharing the artical wrote by experts at Florida State
I may have misunderstood ...this may only apply to the coils they used and not a prefab titanium one
btw I recieve a email back from the pool heater/chiller manufacture who stated the one they distribute was designed for saltwater aquaculter so I quess if I ever did need a big one $3800 shipped for that heatpump at 125000btu would be the logical thing to invest in anyway
Id still love to build one though
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holy cow you have a reef large enough for a 10 1/2 ton chiller? it says you only have less than 500 gallons of water I would say 8000 to 10000 btu would be about perfect.
Overheating the coils? they obviously did something way different than I have explained here. there is a very stable relationship between the pressure and temperature of any refrigerant. I have been using r-22 and I have not experienced any pressures over 250 psig. most falling between 200-225 psig.if you use a p/t chart to determine the temperature of the refrigerant inside the condenser coil it would be around 100-120 psig. nowhere close to overheating a coil. if they are refering to discharge temperatures I have felt with my hand only and didn't burn myself. since I have many times left burn marks on my hands from discharge pipes on commercially produced refrigeration systems I have to believe that it is just fine like it is. I don't have alot of time on a computer anymore so I am not sure if or when I will get to that article
Overheating the coils? they obviously did something way different than I have explained here. there is a very stable relationship between the pressure and temperature of any refrigerant. I have been using r-22 and I have not experienced any pressures over 250 psig. most falling between 200-225 psig.if you use a p/t chart to determine the temperature of the refrigerant inside the condenser coil it would be around 100-120 psig. nowhere close to overheating a coil. if they are refering to discharge temperatures I have felt with my hand only and didn't burn myself. since I have many times left burn marks on my hands from discharge pipes on commercially produced refrigeration systems I have to believe that it is just fine like it is. I don't have alot of time on a computer anymore so I am not sure if or when I will get to that article
coralfarm'n
New member
rob the 10 1/2 ton would be for a commercial facility
robthorn, I've recieved all the part this week for the chiller. I ordered the chiller tube from SW Wilson, I picked up the controler from a LFS for a c-note and I had a 5,000 btu air-conditioning unit in the garage, which in itself is entirely a different story. My A/C friend is coming over Friday after work. Is there anything else I need to tell him?
For the water valve placement, do you mean my return line from the chiller to the tank? I have a ball valve on that line already. I was going to splice the chiller into a return line from the sump to the tank. Or would it be better to buy a separate pump just for the chiller and return the chilled water back to the sump?
it doesn't change the water temp coming out of the chiller barrel that much so it has been safe for us to return the chilled water back to the tank. you just need to be able to meter the water flow through the chiller barrel. if there is too much water flow, the refrigerant coming back to the compressor will not be cool enough to cool the motor windings in the compressor and it will overheat and go off on the thermal overload. I think the refrigerant has to be below 65 F somewhere around 40-50 F is better.
