My corals are not happy with my lights!

[Mdwannabe]

The 170 has been up for a couple years now, and I'm just not happy with the way the lights grow coral, thought to my color blind eyes (3) 400 watt 20,000 K bulbs look nice.
I'm thinking about lowering the (K) on the MH bulbs and adding T5's for the blue color. Not to mention what sunset would again look like using the actinic T5's.
Please check "My Gallery" and see what my hood set up is: (Hood Open) on page 3.
What I am considering doing is buying a 4 bulb 36" DIY T5 kit and putting 2 bulbs between the fans, and 2 on the front face of the hood.
Not sure reflectors would buy me anything, as no bulbs would be in a position to reflect down into the tank without interfering with the MH's.
I'm thinking I would lower the MH to 14,000 (K), and get all Actinic T5 bulbs. I could even go lower on the (K) of the MH if experienced input say's T5's could make up for the loss of blue.
Any input on this idea? I'm just thinking out loud as I have no experience with T5's, but (4) 36 inchers are the only thing I could squeeze into the hood.
Before anyone suggests it, no I can not squeeze 4 VHO's in, the tape measure say's it's too tight.
Any input is appreciated, as this will be a major PITA to do, not to mention the cost justification to the boss

Thanks:
Rick

 

[TitansFan]

I know you said no to the VHO... I am switching back to VHO from my T5 actinic. If you want to see if they fit I have 2 36 inch blueplus bulbs, endcaps, and icecap SLR reflectors I could sell.

 

[crumbletop]

I'd get the reflectors for sure with the T5s -- they double the output, and with a tank as deep as yours you'll need it. I know you said your halide reflectors would get in the way, but could you mount them lower down? The reflectors clamp to the bulbs so they don't have to be mounted on anything. You only need to mount the endcaps/standoffs.

 

[gflat65]

Rick,

Why not just 2 VHO's? I'm running 14K's and 2 VHO's and love it (over the 125). You know I had to suggest them just because you said no.

 

[Sir Knight]

I agree with the T5's, I have a T5 hood over my 40 and they are doing a great job (5 bulbs).

The reflectors are required to push the light down to the tank and increase the output, without them you or should I say your wife since you are color blind may not even see any change in color with 400's, the 400's will over power them. For reflectors look at the Ice Cap reflectors and if you need to over drive the bulbs look at using an Ice Cap ballast or two to run them. You will need to run fans across the T5's to keep them cool and in your setup they will make a difference.

Note: each T5 bulb should have its own reflector don't even consider using the single reflector for multiple bulbs they just don't push the light as good as the individual reflectors do.

 

[wooglin]

I would recomend 10k xm's and VHO URI brand actinics. You just cant get anywhere close to the PAR output you get with the XM at 10k with any other bulb. In fact a 250 watt 10k XM puts out more par that any 400watt bulb that is 14k or above. A 400 watt 10k XM puts out more par than any other bulb on the market.

 

[DMBillies]

Rick-

As Jack said, the reflectors on T5 retros attach straight to the bulb. With a tank as wide as yours (front to back), I would think you'd be able to use to reflectors to push as much of the light down into the tank as possible and would be able to angle the light toward the center of the tank a little bit. This will prevent your "sunset" from having a big shadow in the middle and will make it so that the main beam of light from the top T5 on each side doesn't have to shine past the bottom one. If space is the primary concern, the reflectors only stick out maybe an 1/8" farther then the end caps. I would think it would be better to bend the reflectors in just a little bit than to go without any (assuming you don't have space for them).

One other thought, looking at the picture of your set-up, would it be possible to fit 4 x 24" T5 retros (or maybe 6) running front-to-back between the halides and on both ends of the hood? 24" retros are actually closer to 23"... it that helps with figuring out the space. I would think it would be better to get 4 or 6 shorter bulbs that will shine better down into the tank than going with 4 longer ones that are going to "waste" a lot of their output by having to shine around one another.

Brian

 

[fishdoc11]

What brand of bulbs have you tried and what ballasts are you running them with? How old are the bulbs you have on there now?
I personally find it odd that 3 400 watt bulbs over your tank, even if they are 20K, will not grow corals well.
IMO, like others have stated, 10K's with UVL VHO atinics is hard to beat for coloration and growth but the look is definately not blue.
Also beware of simply going off of PAR to choose bulbs. Par is definately an important part of the equation but IMO too much emphasis has been placed on PAR in recent years mainly stemming from more light being needed in the past in "dirtier tanks" maintained with now outdated equipment.
Good choices for 10K bulbs are Ushio, AB and XM.
The T5 idea sounds pretty good but you will need to use reflectors if you use T5's. That is really what makes them what they are and I would definately vote for VHO's over T5's without reflectors, or with them for that matter but the race would be closer
Personally I think a bulb and or ballast change may be all that's needed.
Chris

 

[Mdwannabe]

First; all input is appreciated!

Now to try and address input; in order given:

1)TitansFan: 2-36" just would not do it, thanks though.

2)gflat65: Thanks, that helps a lot , OH, and view my reply to your available frags post.......1/5"....?

3)DMBillies: Interesting Idea, I did not think of that, back to the hood I go with a tape measure. Is there a recommended height off the water T5's should be?

4)fishdoc11: First, it's great to still see your input. Bulbs are XM 20,000 K, about 4 months old, with mag start. OH, and by the way, as I am blue/green color blind (too an extreme; according to my ophthalmologist), overall color of the tank is not a concern to anyone but the "BOSS". She likes the blue(?) color. I'm just looking to up the growth rate.

Please don't misunderstand, I have great polyp extension, but growth is painfully SLOW. Maybe it's just that this is the first time my first (SPS) tank is working and I expect too much.

Again, I'm just thinking out loud.

Thanks:
Rick

 

[gflat65]

Noone gets fishdoc and reewik results on SPS growth.

 

[wooglin]

In my tank my SPS growth has been fast, my three keys to fast growth have been:

1. Strong light (closest to color of sun 6500k, while still pleasing to the eye).
2. Plenty of Alkalinity and Calcium
3. Low Temp. (74-76 degrees)

 

[crumbletop]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9516517#post9516517 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by wooglin
Low Temp. (74-76 degrees)

Interesting. I would have thought faster growth would come at higher temps. I was talking with Sean at ebay a couple of days ago, and he was talking about the crazy growth you get for SPS.

 

[fishdoc11]

That last one puzzles me Wooglin although I know you get good results that way
Corals calcify more rapidly at higher temps (~ 80 - 85 F ). I have seen some people report less effects from stess at lower temps during transport etc..but in general higher temps, to a point, mean higher metabolism for most living things.
Here is a good thread about temp and SPS:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=956543&highlight=sps+temperatures
Pay particular attention to the posts by Mcaxmaster and Green bean....both of those guys know what they are talking about

Nothing wrong with your bulbs Rick. 3 things I see could be what you are experiencing.
Not enough patience....IME the larger colonies get the faster they grow. Sometimes frags will take a year or two before they really take off. Some never take off and grow agonizingly slow but this is usually based on type and is fairly predictable ie. slimers/milles grow fast and Gomezi and PM's grow slow.
The other 2 Wooglin stated. Keeping Ca and alk levels in check is important and a higher kelvin light might be worth a try. IMO using a 14K will only get you marginally, if that, better growth than the 20K. Neither will get you the growth a 10K (Ushio, XM, AB) or 6.5K (Iwasaki) will

hth, Chris

 

[wooglin]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9516853#post9516853 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by fishdoc11
That last one puzzles me Wooglin although I know you get good results that way
Corals calcify more rapidly at higher temps (~ 80 - 85 F ). I have seen some people report less effects from stess at lower temps during transport etc..but in general higher temps, to a point, mean higher metabolism for most living things.
Here is a good thread about temp and SPS:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=956543&highlight=sps+temperatures
Pay particular attention to the posts by Mcaxmaster and Green bean....both of those guys know what they are talking about

Nothing wrong with your bulbs Rick. 3 things I see could be what you are experiencing.
Not enough patience....IME the larger colonies get the faster they grow. Sometimes frags will take a year or two before they really take off. Some never take off and grow agonizingly slow but this is usually based on type and is fairly predictable ie. slimers/milles grow fast and Gomezi and PM's grow slow.
The other 2 Wooglin stated. Keeping Ca and alk levels in check is important and a higher kelvin light might be worth a try. IMO using a 14K will only get you marginally, if that, better growth than the 20K. Neither will get you the growth a 10K (Ushio, XM, AB) or 6.5K (Iwasaki) will

hth, Chris

I agree that everything you read says warmer is better, but as a safeguard against a malfunctioning A/C unit in the summer I chose a lower temp (this happened too me twice, the first time was a nightmare so I got a chiller, and the second time tank went from 74-76 to around 80 during the three days they were rebuilding my ac unit. It was 95 in the house). Its just a side note that I have noticed that I have good luck at lower temps. Of course ive got a 75 and its alot easier to keep a 75 at lower temps than a larger tank. When I upgrade my target temp will be around 78-80.

 

[fishdoc11]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9517496#post9517496 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by wooglin
I agree that everything you read says warmer is better, but as a safeguard against a malfunctioning A/C unit in the summer I chose a lower temp (this happened too me twice, the first time was a nightmare so I got a chiller, and the second time tank went from 74-76 to around 80 during the three days they were rebuilding my ac unit. It was 95 in the house). Its just a side note that I have noticed that I have good luck at lower temps. Of course ive got a 75 and its alot easier to keep a 75 at lower temps than a larger tank. When I upgrade my target temp will be around 78-80.

I've allways been curious why you kept is so low. Guess I should have asked
Can't argue with the results!
Chris

 

[wooglin]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9517579#post9517579 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by fishdoc11
I've allways been curious why you kept is so low. Guess I should have asked
Can't argue with the results!
Chris

The Pink Pocillopora I got from you some time ago is really doing well, it has turned out to be one of my favorite corals. I need to Frag it soon.