My corals browning-HELP

kamen_BG

New member
Hi,
I`m new in the forum and have a problem with the SPS-s in my tank

Few days after putting in, the color of my blue, pink and purple corals turn brown. I'm not sure if this is not a light problem ( I`m with LED lights), chemical - in terms of missing elements or elements in more, or the whole system problem, using Tropic Marin supplements, is unsuitable for this type of reef and should I need to change with Zeovit system?
Water parameters are:ORP -370, Са 430 , Mg 1400, pH 8.2, kH 9, NO2 - 0 , NO3 ~ 15 , PO4 - 0
Any ideas :uhoh2:
 
tons. There are tons of "reasons" why. It's hard to pinpoint the exact one. It could be your light (too strong or not enough), your flow, NO3, PO4, KH or just change in any of these parameters. What I would do is keep your parameters stable for few months and observe your corals. After if there are no improvements (and corals grow and have good PE) you can play around with light first (give them less, more) then try GFO, better flow. here is my 2c
 
My SPS was turning brown under some temporary low lighting. After I threw my SPS frags under my new DIY LED build, colors started coming back within days. What kind of LED are you running?

Is your PH stable? Reason I ask is because i was screwing around with water levels/skimming a lot in the recent past, and having kalk in my ATO was causing PH swings (all within safe parameters). This was negatively affecting my SPS as well.
 
Tnx the answers. My LED`s is with 4 pcs 10 W white, 10 000 K, 4 pcs 10 W blue, 8 pcs 1 W white, 12 pcs 1 W blue, all of them made in China. And I know that the lightening is not so good. The new one, that I expect is whith 8 white 10W 15 000 K diods, 8 blue ones 10 W, 17 1W blue, 2 red 10 W and 2 UV and all of them are made in Korea. The pH from the very beggining is stable at 8.2.
All of my corals are growing fast, and the coloration of the red and green ones, as well as the zoantids, are perfect. I have two Vortex MP 40 W ES, and I think, that the flow is good enought. I will try to keep stable all the thank parameters and cold you explain what GFO meens?
 
GFO stands for "Granular" Ferric Oxide. It is a common way to reduce your phosphate level. Less phosphate you have in your tank - better. There is always some amount in your tank from feeding or decomposition so some sort of export is required. If you dont have Hanna phosphate checker probably is a good idea to get one (since you have MPs guessing money isn't a question here). I personally believe should be no phosphate in the tank at all (not detectable with Hanna). With nutrients its not so clear. You might want to have some or use special feeding procedure to feed your corals in ULNS.

Tnx the answers. My LED`s is with 4 pcs 10 W white, 10 000 K, 4 pcs 10 W blue, 8 pcs 1 W white, 12 pcs 1 W blue, all of them made in China. And I know that the lightening is not so good. The new one, that I expect is whith 8 white 10W 15 000 K diods, 8 blue ones 10 W, 17 1W blue, 2 red 10 W and 2 UV and all of them are made in Korea. The pH from the very beggining is stable at 8.2.
All of my corals are growing fast, and the coloration of the red and green ones, as well as the zoantids, are perfect. I have two Vortex MP 40 W ES, and I think, that the flow is good enought. I will try to keep stable all the thank parameters and cold you explain what GFO meens?
 
The first thing you mention in your original post is that they turn brown a few days after you place them in your tank right? In my experience this is normal. For me new sps take at least a solid month after introduction to my tank to really color up. I would just make sure your chemistry is spot on and stable. Big ones are phosphates nitrates and kH stability to maintain color. Besides lighting too. Hope this helps bud. Its hard getting good color.
 
GFO stands for "Granular" Ferric Oxide. It is a common way to reduce your phosphate level. Less phosphate you have in your tank - better. There is always some amount in your tank from feeding or decomposition so some sort of export is required. If you dont have Hanna phosphate checker probably is a good idea to get one (since you have MPs guessing money isn't a question here). I personally believe should be no phosphate in the tank at all (not detectable with Hanna). With nutrients its not so clear. You might want to have some or use special feeding procedure to feed your corals in ULNS.
Tnx! I have a filter body whith GFO, and I`m using Salifert for tests. According to this test my PO4 are 0. And I`ll check for Hana. The tank is not so stable and I`m using Microbe Lift`s TeraP and Special Blend.
 
Back
Top