My DIY Automated Controller Build.

Hi Stage,

The break out boards i got from Sparkfun, They make working with the SMD stuff so much easier!! I found soldering them was not too bad, just take your time and keep your soldering iron tip clean.

I ended up using the Zetex ZXLD1362. Its a great little driver. 1A and up to 60V. Im driving 12 LED's of each string at 48V.

As for the programming i did most of it myself. I used alot of copy and pasting from other people's codes on the arduino forum and then adjusted it to suit my application. I used to program industrial PLC's and had never done an C before so i know my code is not anywhere near how it should be written. However i have written it to how i understand it and so far its working fine. Time will tell once im up and running to see if i have any bugs in it.

VR
 
Vancouver Reefr said:
Hi Stage,

The break out boards i got from Sparkfun, They make working with the SMD stuff so much easier!! I found soldering them was not too bad, just take your time and keep your soldering iron tip clean.

I ended up using the Zetex ZXLD1362. Its a great little driver. 1A and up to 60V. Im driving 12 LED's of each string at 48V.

As for the programming i did most of it myself. I used alot of copy and pasting from other people's codes on the arduino forum and then adjusted it to suit my application. I used to program industrial PLC's and had never done an C before so i know my code is not anywhere near how it should be written. However i have written it to how i understand it and so far its working fine. Time will tell once im up and running to see if i have any bugs in it.

VR
Click to expand...

that is great, Im an EE but I work with high voltage a/c power systems so my programming skills are lacking. PLCs are great to use and pretty easy to program using ladder logic. Would you mind maybe taking a look at my code and make any suggestions?
 
Hi Stage,

If you tell us a description of what your controller will do and then copy and paste the code onto here, i know there are several other people on here who will take a look and possibly add their input.

VR






stage3-s4 said:
that is great, Im an EE but I work with high voltage a/c power systems so my programming skills are lacking. PLCs are great to use and pretty easy to program using ladder logic. Would you mind maybe taking a look at my code and make any suggestions?
Click to expand...
 
Lookie what the UPS man brought me today....................


5429191404_22905b91e1_z.jpg


oh and i also made a start on my PC interface.....


5422024251_870d104a34_z.jpg


We are slowly getting there and i can see the light at the end of the tunnel!!!

VR
 
Temperature Probe?

Temperature Probe?

Hey i was wondering where you got your temperature probe from? I've been looking around and I cant come up with anything? any ideas for me!
Great build btw!
:beer:
 
Hey VR, I was wondering what type of probe you use for temperature? Do you use the pH probe and then use the temperature sensor to convert it to an actual numerical number or is it a totally separate sensor and code? Bc I've been looking online and I can't find a single temperature probe. Any ideas? Thanks!
 
Hi guys,

The temp probes im using are a Dallas one wire semi conductors. I can use multiple sensors on one signal wire and just address each one to get iTs temperatire.

See here for more info:

http://www.arduino.cc/playground/Learning/OneWire


Once i wire the probes i then take a length of black plastic tube, slide the sensor and wire in the end and then pour epoxy down the tube to seal all the electircal side.


I then calibrate my code to read correctly with my temp probes sat in 78F water ,as this is what my tank will be maintained at.


The temp and PH pRobes and associated circuits are completly seperate to one another. I just then read each value independantly in the controller and output the coded values.

VR
 
A few more progress shots:


Front Panel:
5566623337_4533a1a42c.jpg

Back Panel:
5567202984_5dc4773a56.jpg

Front Panel Wiring:
<img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5256/5566624767_356a4715f9.jpg" [/IMG]​

Mains plug-in box:
5566622785_8853c49476.jpg


VR
 
Ok now with that being said i totally understand your websites description of the temp sensor. With that being said though, while checking out the diagram i see that all your probes and heater are wired into the same line. Is this a basic one-wire design taking the output wire and also connecting it to the pH probe? or is it just for the sake of saving space on the diagram that you didn't put separate wiring to each.
 
That is just a generic diagram to show whats going on. The temp sensors will all be connected together using the one wire protocol and will feed into one input.
Each ph sensor and salinity sensor will have its own input.

So i total i have 5 inputs on the mega for the sensors:

1. Temps ( Tank Temp, Mix Temp, Hood Temp )

2. Tank Ph

3. Mix PH

4. Tank Salinity

5. Mix Salinity



Hope this helps.

VR
 
This thing is absolutely out of control awesome! Its exactly what I was imagining I wanted to do with my arduino skills on beautiful steroids. But seeing this build makes me realize how much I would need to put into it. Amazing job on the hardware and case too.

I am a UI Web Developer who worked for years in the building controls/automation/energy industry and man, your PC interface looks lightyears better then many of the large automation dashboards I ran into on the job.

Tell you what, I will build you the slickest Web Service, Transactional Database, and Web UI you've ever seen. And you build me another one of these things :p
 
Looks like you used Front Panel Express. Are you pleased with the service? Their prices are kinda spendy. I never pull the trigger on their panels becuase the price scares me one I get everything laid out.
 
I did indeed Bean. Their software was very simple to use and made laying out a dream, and the price as you draw is fantastic! I was going with a full infill colour panel until i figured i could save $60!

As for the quality and delivery, it is first class! They are a little pricey, but compared to the quotes i was getting locally, it was cheap. Im so glad i used them, as the front panel looks stunning now its all assembled.

I will definately use them again for any future engraving. Fast delivery to! They also tell you exactly when its going to arrive, and it was bang on time!!!!

VR
 
The software has improved over the last few years, but it still drives me crazy for some reason. I use water slide decals and clear coat for most panels, as most of the panels I have designed using their software end up being upward of $150 - $200.

My controller has been waiting on a custom panel for 2 years now. I have almost pulled the trigger on FPE several times but just can't swallow the price. My actual intent was to build my own CNC router to do that kind of work, but that is likely never going to happen.

Interesting mains box, though with cords, those switches are going to be a tight reach, though I imagine they will get little use. I chose to use low voltage logic to derive HOA (Hand Off Automatic) modes for the outputs instead of putting switches on the mains side.
 
I thought about doing the water slide transfers but then i bit the bullet and went with FPE. IM glad i did as the quality is fantastic.

As for the switches, they are actually pretty easy to access. Once the box is mounted, each cord will wrap around to the side and then go through access holes in the backing board. This leaves enough room to operate the switch. Also the switches are there really for emergencies. It will be rare that i will have to turn anything off outside of regular maintenance, as the common things i need to turn on/off can be done from the front panel of the controller.

Also the switches are switching 12VDC. They act as an override to drive the relay coil that switches the mains voltage. I did not want possible salty wet fingers switching 110v!
 
Yup all of my HOA switches are low voltage as well. I just pulled up the last FPE panel I designed for my controller. It costed out to $300...

There is justs no way I am spending $300 on a single front panel :)
 
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