My How To Culture Phytoplankton Guide

Overnight is going to be expensive, no matter how you slice it. Last few orders I did for myself from FAF were shipped ground, which takes about 3 days to get me for only around $14 for a handful guillards (mass pack), and few other items that can handle ground shipping such as the algae discs. For more finicky live cultures such as Isochyrsus and Rotifers, I source them locally.
 
I was doing a project for a class of mine where I was culturing phyto, and I had to do this write up. I'm going to post it up here as a revision of my first post. I haven't redacted it, although I probably should because I wrote it at 12 at night.

anyway, here goes:

Sterile cultures of Nannochloripsis and Chlorella species were obtained. We also obtained a batch of food-grade Nannochloripsis that we used for culturing.

We used clear uncoloured plastic 2 litre bottles of a regular shape that were sterilized and rinsed with deionized water. Two holes were made in the caps, one larger one, centered, for the airline tubing, fitting snugly, to go through, and a smaller one to let air to escape so as to not build up pressure. Airline tubing was strung through the cap with enough length so as to more than reach the bottom of the bottle and enough to reach the gang valve without being taught. The bottles were stripped of labels to allow maximum light penetration.

To create the initial culture water we used 2.0 litres of deionized water minus the initial culture volume. This volume we would mix in proper amounts of marine aquarium salt mixture in a large clean beaker. (Two of the Nannochloripsis cultures are at a specific gravity of 1.025 one culture is at a specific gravity of 1.015 and the Chlorella culture is in fresh water with a specific gravity of 1.000. These values were determined with a refractometer) To the prepared water at the correct specific gravity we added 1 ml of fertilizer. The fertilizer is a Guillards F2 formulation without silicate procured from Florida Aqua Farms. A list of the chemical makeup is attached. The Fertilizer was prepared per the supplier’s instructions.

The pure culture was added to the prepared water and fertilizer in the beaker and using a funnel the culture was poured into the culturing bottle. The bottle was capped off and the airline hose was connected to the gang valve. The airflow thru the tubing into the bottle should always be enough to keep the algae in suspension. The culture bottles are placed at a light source with a 16 - 18 hr on cycle and a 8 - 6 hr off cycle regulated by a timer. The cultures should be left at normal room temperature.

Splitting of cultures can be based on turbidity (culture density) measurements or based on log phase doubling time. A culture of Nannochloripsis in log phase has a doubling time of about 8 days under ideal conditions. Log phase doubling times vary between species of algae. When splitting a culture, its best split it in half and replace the removed volume with prepared water as per the instructions of creating a new culture listed above. It is essential that the same amount of fertilizer is added as when starting a new culture, especially if trying to maintain a culture in log-phase growth.

I hope, this helps someone out who is interested in doing the same. I should take some pictures of my set up I have at home. I'll try and get those up after I'm thru with finals.

(edit: broken up into sections for readability.)
 
I noticed that Micro Algae Grow contains copper. Do you guys sieve the phytoplankton out before you add it to a rotifer culture or do you filter the rotifers out before you add them to the tank to avoid putting copper in your tank?
 
There isn't enough copper in the micro algae grow to be a problem ;) Remember, copper is one of those funny things...a tiny bit is needed for life, a little more kills things. The micro algae grow has just that right tiny bit.
 
Yes, I hadn't noted any ill effects from using the microalgae cultured in this way. and straining it would be a tedious procedure, not to mention you'd have to get paper fine enough to filter it.
 
I've had a culture going for around 8 months mow with no problems. Prior to that I was fighting crashes all of the time to the point where I was about to give up. I researched several sites including Melevsreef.com and tried different techniques including using tap water instead of DI water. Also, I live in the Denver area and have not found it necessary to sterilize the tap water prior to use. The tap water definitely helped but I still had a few crashes. Finally, I noticed that the temperature of the culture seemed high due to the close proximity of the lighting (I use a couple of T5s). I added a small fan that blows across the bottles and I have not experienced a crash since that time. In my situation, temperature had a significant impact on the stability of the culture.
 
OH i feel what your saying Algaenot, been there and done that. i have crashed more cultures than carter has liver pills before i figured it out. but now i just use the instant and my cellar dont look like a lab. whole lot easier with my job now days too
 
What are the the signs of a phytoplakton crash? I've been culturing (or trying at least) nanno, but some bottles have algae growing on the container walls that fall off easy if I shake it? Is that cyano? Also, the cultures have small clumps floating around. Im guessing they crashed..
 
If it turns all white and doesnt change in color within 3 weeks. I call it crashed. I have bene using Miracle Grow on my phyto and Nanno and Tetra seem to do fine but ISO G is having problems. Its on its second week and no signs of growth.... If it doesnt grow i'll have to throw it out and buy more somewhere with some F/2 formula like i should have used in the first place.
 
What are the the signs of a phytoplakton crash? I've been culturing (or trying at least) nanno, but some bottles have algae growing on the container walls that fall off easy if I shake it? Is that cyano? Also, the cultures have small clumps floating around. Im guessing they crashed..

Sounds like your culture got contaminated by cyano, which took over the culture. Nanno does not adhere to surfaces or clump. I'd break down your entire set up, sterilize it all, than set back up with a new culture.

If it turns all white and doesnt change in color within 3 weeks. I call it crashed. I have bene using Miracle Grow on my phyto and Nanno and Tetra seem to do fine but ISO G is having problems. Its on its second week and no signs of growth.... If it doesnt grow i'll have to throw it out and buy more somewhere with some F/2 formula like i should have used in the first place.

If the Iso hasn't grown in 2 weeks, it's time to try again. That stuff grows quickly if it's happy.
 
Thanks for the reply Bill and Bluscrnodeth. Can you just verifiy that this is cyano before I break everything down? Here are some pictures:

These are the free floating mini clumps:
DSC_0019-1.jpg


Here are the ones sticking on the walls:
DSC_0025.jpg


Thanks
 
appt220, it would really take checking under a microscope to be 100% sure. However, with that clumping it's like 90% likely to be contaminated ;)
 
Hi everyone. I just started my batch last week not noticing this thread. I started by reading on Melevs site. I got my culture from Aquafarms and also the fertilzer. I started with one whole discin one 2lt bottle with RO/DI water set at 1.019 salt gravity. Per the instruction on Melevs said 2ml of fertilizer and a LFS told me to use 1ml cause it can cause an outbreak of green hair algae. ??? Never had done it I went with 1ml. Its been 7 days and I just split my system tonight into 2 bottle. I just noticed someone said they use 10ml of fertilizer. Im a little thrown off now. Thats a big difference from 1ml and 2ml. Am I doing this wrong?
 
Its all about the concentration of your fertilizer. I use 1 ml because my ferts are very concentrated. plus if you use sterile water, you have no risk of a HA out break.
 
I have been trying my hand at growing phyto for about three months now.
I try to split every 7 to 10 days,I read some where not to go over 10 days,
Can I or should I go over 10 days?
I'm using 2 litre pop bottles and switch out to a new bottle every other split,
Never use the same bottle more than twice since they are free.
And the bottom of the bottle is settled with a dark green does that mean I am not bubbling hard enough?
My phyto never gets as dark green like I see some other people get, only a lite lime green.
The only time I ever got a dark green is one time I used sterilized/dechlorinated tap water. I didn't want what ever else was in tap water in my tank so I tossed it.

Using nano disc from FAF.
I set my culture water at 1.019 using RO/DI
1ml of Guillards F2 per bottle.n
I have looked at my samples under a microscope.
Could any one describe what It should look like?
Are there any good photos out there of a healthy nano culture that I could compare to?
 
Back
Top