My new 180g

Mike, I have several leaks on the Sla Flex tubing. I had to stop tonight and head to the store tomorrow. I am bummed!

Did you have leaks? What kind of glue are you using on the spa flex? It looks like christy Hot Blue on the PVC? Do you use this on the spa flex too? Do you use primer with the Hot blue?

I think I was stingy on the glue. Did you sop your pipes wet with the glue?
 
I don't have any leaks yet. The glue is just something called Rain-R-Shine. I don't use a whole lot either, just get some on both surfaces and twist 90 degrees as it's inserted
 
yeah, that's all I did, but without the twist. I will use more glue and twist in this time.

I called Ed, I will come later today due to the setback. I could not get water in the tank last night.
Cheers
 
Well, it's up and running. I'm mixing the salt in now. Just a couple things to work out. The durso needs fine tuning, I want to redo about a foot of the return line to make more room, and I want to take the center glass brace out of the 55 sump.
 
Got the salinity right and put about 3 bags of southdown in. I still have about a bag and a half left but it's getting late. It's about 2 inches deep now. I really rinsed the sand well, so the water is barely cloudy.

I really am disappointed about how loud these Mag 24s are. I put a mouse pad under them and that helped a lot, but they're still really loud. Maybe they'll get quieter as they break in. It seems that I remember my Mag 9.5 being a lot louder when it was new.

I know, this thread is worthless without pics....

newsand180.jpg
 
The 200 gallon buckets of TM Pro looks to be pretty accurate. I mixed 1 bucket into 202.4 gallons (if the RC calculator is correct) and it came to 1.024.
 
Looking good. I guess spring is tank setup season. Everyone is setting up tanks LOL. Today I begin laying down the plans for mine. Went to Tucson yesterday and picked up the 240 from Gary.

You boys better save some plumbing supplies at the stores for others. :-) Ace doesn't have anything left. Going to HD today to see what's left there.
 
LOL, I bought Ace out of nearly everything! I found out they're the only store that sells schedule 80 ball valves. They turn so much easier than the white schedule 40 valves. They said they'll get more in on Saturday.
 
Mike, all the pl;ubming will quiet down a bit in a month when biofims coat the walls of PVC.

Also, I had another idea about tweaking your duro. I built mine using the All-Glass mod. You simply leave the cap in place with no holes, then drill a large 1/4" hole in the T adapter. Make this hole centered with the flow of water through the elbow.

If you go back and look at my thread, you can see pics.

I took for granted how well this worked, since I have no issues with the overflow. This design prevents oscillations too. And, as long as you have the T with the hole in it only about an inch or so under the Overflow teeth, then you should not have water falling too far into the overflow.

Here is another idea, but it may be too late.

Pulling water from the overflow chamber for the CLC may be too much flow for the overflow. You can drill holes for bulkheads in the overflow box about 12" above the bottom. Then attach the drain screens here and you will pull water from the main body of water.

This is how Jon Easly is running his CLC drain.
 
Scott, thanks for the suggestions, but it's actually working perfectly today. I was able to turn the cap to open the hole all the way, and it's a perfectly stable level and totally quiet.

Maybe saltwater is slippery-er than RO? :)
 
I got the T-5 fixture for the fuge today. I've heard of heat issues with this particular fixture, so I stripped it and mounted the bulbs retro style. They're pretty bright for a $25 T-5 fixture!

Unfortunately, and Scott this was my fault, I drilled the hole with the hole saw you brought me and it's too big. I meant to ask for a 1" bulkhead holesaw, but I see I asked you for a 1.5" hole saw. I ordered the bulkhead from Marine Depot, it'll be here tomorrow. I needed some other stuff anyway. I wasn't planning on bringing the fuge online until Saturday anyway, so this doesn't delay anything.
 
Great Chiller!

Great Chiller!

I've had the new heater on the tank, but no temp probe. I finally hooked up the controller, and the water was 84.5. No big deal, there's nothing in there. So, it was a great chance to test the chiller. It took exactly 15 minutes to drop 1 degree.
Not bad for 200 gallons!
 
Thanks Gary! I just found out how hard it is to break glass. (no, not the new tank!)

The center glass brace on the old 55 which is now the sump, was in the way. With 3 baffles solidly glued in place with UV cured glass adhesive and 2 tubes of silicone, I figure I don't need it. I wrapped it up with masking tape and hit it. But holy cow, the firs "hammer" I had in reach was a giant pair of channel locks. I couln't break it! And I was swinging as hard as space would allow under the stand. I went and got a hammer, and still had to hit it 5 times before it broke. WOW!
 
I now have living stuff in the tank.
I got the sand seeded from Ed's tank. I was thinking I didn't have enough flow because I didn't have any "floaties" to judge it, but after dumping in spagetti worm parts and tracking them back and forth, I do have a lot of flow. There's 2 Mag 24s running, but both are throttled back a bit. Once the fuge is inline and running I can open up the closed loop a little more.
 
Mike, my tank is still cloudy. I am wodering if the Flow is disturbing the sand bed and suspending the sand. I have the SD sugar fine too. Do you see the cloudy haze in your tank too?
BTW none of the return lines are blowing at the sandbed
 
Mine is still a little cloudy, but it's nearly cleared up after running all day. If there were rocks in there or if I had filter media in the baffles, it would be clear by now.

Ed and I just figured out how to adjust the durso so now I have the closed loop mag 24 fully open, and it still isn't disturbing the sand.
 
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