My plan of a 125 gallon build
- Thread starter SimonSKL
- Start date
SimonSKL
New member
I didn't do much this weekend as I was out of town on Saturday.
I have been thinking about how to organize (ie hide) the power cords and wirings of various equipment, probes, tubings...etc in the sump so they have a cleaner look. My original thought was a electrical panel or box where all the wirings will be routed to and from but then I found it is not possible as all these wirings are all spreading out. Some power cords simply will not reach the box. So this is my lastest change.... a false wall at the back of the stand.
The false wall is simply an 1/2" foam insulation board that I picked up from Menards for $9. I cut it down into the size and cut a few slots and holes where cords and wirings will be routed into and out. Here is some pictures of the result.
I have been thinking about how to organize (ie hide) the power cords and wirings of various equipment, probes, tubings...etc in the sump so they have a cleaner look. My original thought was a electrical panel or box where all the wirings will be routed to and from but then I found it is not possible as all these wirings are all spreading out. Some power cords simply will not reach the box. So this is my lastest change.... a false wall at the back of the stand.
The false wall is simply an 1/2" foam insulation board that I picked up from Menards for $9. I cut it down into the size and cut a few slots and holes where cords and wirings will be routed into and out. Here is some pictures of the result.
SimonSKL
New member
Just want to share my thought on Marineland Corner-flo features.
My 125 gallon tank has two corner-flos, each is rated to handle a max of 700gph flow rate. Each drain pipe has a piece of air tubing at the top to prevent full siphon as a full siphon can easily exceed 700 gph for a 1.5" pipe.
The corner-flo has a removable front panel which as you can see has a large lower grille and a top skimmer grille. The large lower grille collects water from the lower middle water column
With the front panel removed.
Here is my problem with the corner-flo
Left corner with return
Right corner
You can see there is plenty of water coming from the lower grilles but little to no water thru the skimmer grilles. The water level is higher than the bottom of the skimmer grille but the "teeth" kind of prevent the water from coming thru.
If I remove the panel, there is good amount of water coming thru but I lose pulling water from the lower middle section of the tank.
What if I cut out the center portion of the "teeth"? Thoughts and suggestions on how I can get good skimming at the top. Increase water flow rate to the DT tank can help by raising the water level but that also introduces a lot of gurgling and noise as it exceeds the 700gph limit. The drain will go in and out of siphon creating a lot of noise:crazy1:
My 125 gallon tank has two corner-flos, each is rated to handle a max of 700gph flow rate. Each drain pipe has a piece of air tubing at the top to prevent full siphon as a full siphon can easily exceed 700 gph for a 1.5" pipe.
The corner-flo has a removable front panel which as you can see has a large lower grille and a top skimmer grille. The large lower grille collects water from the lower middle water column
With the front panel removed.
Here is my problem with the corner-flo
Left corner with return
Right corner
You can see there is plenty of water coming from the lower grilles but little to no water thru the skimmer grilles. The water level is higher than the bottom of the skimmer grille but the "teeth" kind of prevent the water from coming thru.
If I remove the panel, there is good amount of water coming thru but I lose pulling water from the lower middle section of the tank.
What if I cut out the center portion of the "teeth"? Thoughts and suggestions on how I can get good skimming at the top. Increase water flow rate to the DT tank can help by raising the water level but that also introduces a lot of gurgling and noise as it exceeds the 700gph limit. The drain will go in and out of siphon creating a lot of noise:crazy1:
RichieT
New member
Simon,
Could you cut the front panel in half and then remove a 1/2 inch section out of the middle and glue it back together? That way you would be getting the surface skimming and still keep in the insert in place? You could add that 1/2 section back to the top so it's all level.
Could you cut the front panel in half and then remove a 1/2 inch section out of the middle and glue it back together? That way you would be getting the surface skimming and still keep in the insert in place? You could add that 1/2 section back to the top so it's all level.
SimonSKL
New member
Richie, Thanks for the suggestion. I don't think I am brave enough to cut the panel in half because there are locking tabs behind and they won't line up if cut. I probably go the route of removing some teeth from the center portion of the top grille. A lot of people recommend toothless overflow anyway.
I finally finished skinning the stand. Here are some pictures
The skin are mostly made from 3/4" oak plywood with oak banding to hide the plywood edges.
The tricky part of the construction is I want all the panels to be removable, especially the side panels so I can access behind the false wall and the electrical outlets. The 3 panels are held to the stand by 12 wood screws.
Side panel removed
Right side panel upper corner
Right side panel lower corner
Next .... Canopy
I finally finished skinning the stand. Here are some pictures
The skin are mostly made from 3/4" oak plywood with oak banding to hide the plywood edges.
The tricky part of the construction is I want all the panels to be removable, especially the side panels so I can access behind the false wall and the electrical outlets. The 3 panels are held to the stand by 12 wood screws.
Side panel removed
Right side panel upper corner
Right side panel lower corner
Next .... Canopy
SimonSKL
New member
From Drs Foster and Smith. This one is called Seascape
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=21123
SimonSKL
New member
Other than the water stain from the old tank that spot is now covered up by the new tank. The carpet that you see is just a remnant used as a door mat. I will let you know when I need new flooring
I have water in the tank now! it's just not salt water:spin3: After I get the rockscape done, I probably will have salt water in. I am still undecided on lighting
I have water in the tank now! it's just not salt water:spin3: After I get the rockscape done, I probably will have salt water in. I am still undecided on lighting
SimonSKL
New member
I cut out the center teeth of the top grille hoping to improve the surface skimming of the overflow. The result is pretty good. :celeb1:
Right corner-flo
Left corner-flo
I ordered 25 lbs of Pukani dry rock from BRS. They are awesome! They are very light and easy to work with. To make it stand on the side that I want, I use a hacksaw to cut the bottom flat. The rock cut easier than wood!:spin1:
This will be the right side rockscape with mostly the Pukani rock.
This is the left side rockscape with Fiji rock.
Some DIY auto-top-off float switch assembly. The float switch in the prescription vial is the primary switch to activate/deactivate the pump and the switch on top is the backup. The switch on the right is the low water alarm which can also shut down the return pump.
I also made a holder to hold various probes (PH, temp, grounding...)
Today's goal.... start on the canopy.
Right corner-flo
Left corner-flo
I ordered 25 lbs of Pukani dry rock from BRS. They are awesome! They are very light and easy to work with. To make it stand on the side that I want, I use a hacksaw to cut the bottom flat. The rock cut easier than wood!:spin1:
This will be the right side rockscape with mostly the Pukani rock.
This is the left side rockscape with Fiji rock.
Some DIY auto-top-off float switch assembly. The float switch in the prescription vial is the primary switch to activate/deactivate the pump and the switch on top is the backup. The switch on the right is the low water alarm which can also shut down the return pump.
I also made a holder to hold various probes (PH, temp, grounding...)
Today's goal.... start on the canopy.
SimonSKL
New member
I have been busy making a lot of sawdust in my garage building the canopy. This takes a lot longer than I thought as the measurements must be precise to fit over the top of the tank. I also try to keep the weight as low as possible by using plywood instead of solid wood. Here is what it looks like this morning. Still a work in progress:mtool:
I also ordered some Tropic Eden Reef Flakes from Premium Aquatics. The reason I go with a more coarse grain substrate is because of my relatively shallow tank (22"). I was afraid two MP40ES will be creating a sand storm in my tank if I go with the fine grain.:spin2:
Three 30 lb bags gave me a depth of about 1.5" sand bed.
The dry rocks have been curing in heated saltwater for almost a week. Water looks really clean and I am planning to put them in the tank and continue the process tomorrow.
Also picked up a 15 gallon pet food container from Petsmart this past weekend to serve as my auto-top-off reservoir.
Three reactors are hooked up to the manifold: carbon, GFO and calcium.
I also placed an order to China for two EShine 48x3W CREE Led lights with controllers. :bounce2: Very anxious to see how they work.
Here is the link for the light
http://www.eshinesystems.com/aqua/4g-48x3w-cree-simulator-led-aquarium-light.html
To be continued.....
I also ordered some Tropic Eden Reef Flakes from Premium Aquatics. The reason I go with a more coarse grain substrate is because of my relatively shallow tank (22"). I was afraid two MP40ES will be creating a sand storm in my tank if I go with the fine grain.:spin2:
Three 30 lb bags gave me a depth of about 1.5" sand bed.
The dry rocks have been curing in heated saltwater for almost a week. Water looks really clean and I am planning to put them in the tank and continue the process tomorrow.
Also picked up a 15 gallon pet food container from Petsmart this past weekend to serve as my auto-top-off reservoir.
Three reactors are hooked up to the manifold: carbon, GFO and calcium.
I also placed an order to China for two EShine 48x3W CREE Led lights with controllers. :bounce2: Very anxious to see how they work.
Here is the link for the light
http://www.eshinesystems.com/aqua/4g-48x3w-cree-simulator-led-aquarium-light.html
To be continued.....
SimonSKL
New member
You have to ask for a price list online or by email. Shipping cost is steep. The total cost for the two lights shipped close to 1 grand.
However, that still less than half of what I would have paid for a US brand product.
SimonSKL
New member
It is approx 24x5.5x2.5 in inches. I won't be needing any optics as my tank is not deep.
