My Project ★ GENESIS ★ 110G (Miracle) SPS Dream Tank - (I) Pre-Build Thread
- Thread starter Wally.B
- Start date
Wally.B
Active member
Hey Marty, nice to hear from you.
Here another not-so-boring update.
I'M STARTING TO Cheat (or get creative to moving things along faster).
Rather than painting back of Drywall and waiting for it to dry, I thought of just doing a Plastic Sheet Vapour Barrier.
I can always SOMEDAY paint from the inside. BUT PLASTIC is better in some way, since I saw what my Painted Drywall became after 10 years, flaking, cracking, brittle.
Working on the Drywall, and it's starting to look like the Dream Design I came up with a few months ago.
Photo's coming soon.
HOLY SMOKES. I never new they got that big.
Maybe a few slightly smaller ones
Yeah me either, I love that picture, only wish that guy with his awesome tail and coloring wasn't like 3' long lol
Everything is looking amazing, tank is a perfect fit.
Wally.B
Active member
SNEAK PEEK UPDATE ( Found Ultimate Bead Trim [Plastic] ) Finishing Touches
Tank is moving only for Finishing.
I'll post a picture when I'm done (including a series of how I did it).
I wasn't happy with the Metal Paper SheetRock Trim at the Tank Top since (metal) I know will corrode over time. (Painting or Sealing isn't guarantee for test of time)
I found a local Drywall Supply Store and they had all kind of great Drywall Trims. (PLASTIC)
They had J, J-Mud, Rounded Edge, and Straight Cut.
I TOOK THEM ALL at $3 a 10foot Strip.
This open up many possibilities, including the Access Door Edge points.
STAY TUNED (Update coming soon)
Tank is moving only for Finishing.
I'll post a picture when I'm done (including a series of how I did it).
I wasn't happy with the Metal Paper SheetRock Trim at the Tank Top since (metal) I know will corrode over time. (Painting or Sealing isn't guarantee for test of time)
I found a local Drywall Supply Store and they had all kind of great Drywall Trims. (PLASTIC)
They had J, J-Mud, Rounded Edge, and Straight Cut.
I TOOK THEM ALL at $3 a 10foot Strip.
This open up many possibilities, including the Access Door Edge points.
STAY TUNED (Update coming soon)
Wally.B
Active member
MEGA/MICRO UPDATE (TANK Should Be REC-ROOM Installed/Complete TOMORROW) The Details on Progress TODAY
The MEGA mean a big Step Forward today towards completion.
The MICRO means the very fine work achieved.
This was two days before as a reference on Progress.
This is now (With Summary of Progress TODAY). THINGS ARE DRYING so I have to wait till tomorrow to move forward.
NOW THE DETAILS (For those who care).
(1) I had to CUT THE DRYWALL Even and increase the GAP for the PLASTICE L-Bead
Trust me, IT TOOK "Nerves of Steel" to put pressure on that Super Hard/Sharp X-acto Knife and run (many passes) that close the Front Face of The Starphire Glass.
(2) Drywall Bead-Edge Selection/Install
I played with all the Plastic Bead Edges I bought.
The J-Bead was too tight, and not Flush and would interfere with the Tank Trim (flush)
I got an idea to REVERSE the install with a J-Edge.
The choice for this way was to protect the SUMP Room Drywall (From moisture and mist)
To install the Edge level and firmly....I FIRST STAPLED IT.
That edge is design for Drywall MUD, and I almost did it.
THEN I DECIDED, for a better Waterproofing WAY.
Window/Door Chalking (WaterProof and Paintable) for J-Edge Adhesive
The Smear the Chalking over the Bead Holes and over the edge.
RESULT OF THIS is my Drywall Edge and inside is pretty Moisure Proof.
I'll still paint the Sump Room Side Drywalls with a Waterproofing Paint.
(3) Tank Side Drywall (Finishing)
The right side Wall Had a Big gap (for Sliding the Tank in).
I use some strips of Plywood and INSTEAD of Mud, use the Chalking to hold it inside the J-Edge bead.
I also ran Chalking along the whole top Drywall Edge near the Tank (So the wall above is water resistant)
(4) The Crooked/Hacked CORNER
I Couldn't use Silicone at the Corner since the Corner has a significant Gap AND NEEDED TO BE STRONG, Even Finish.
I didn't want to use Corner Edging up to the Ceiling (since there is already one there)
So some Drywall Tape, a Small piece of SheetRock Paper/Metal Edging, and Some MUD worked.
That's it.
Never did this before, and learned/experimented along the way.
ONWARD to (Final Sanding, Painting, and Tank Trim)
The MEGA mean a big Step Forward today towards completion.
The MICRO means the very fine work achieved.
This was two days before as a reference on Progress.
This is now (With Summary of Progress TODAY). THINGS ARE DRYING so I have to wait till tomorrow to move forward.
NOW THE DETAILS (For those who care).
(1) I had to CUT THE DRYWALL Even and increase the GAP for the PLASTICE L-Bead
Trust me, IT TOOK "Nerves of Steel" to put pressure on that Super Hard/Sharp X-acto Knife and run (many passes) that close the Front Face of The Starphire Glass.
(2) Drywall Bead-Edge Selection/Install
I played with all the Plastic Bead Edges I bought.
The J-Bead was too tight, and not Flush and would interfere with the Tank Trim (flush)
I got an idea to REVERSE the install with a J-Edge.
The choice for this way was to protect the SUMP Room Drywall (From moisture and mist)
To install the Edge level and firmly....I FIRST STAPLED IT.
That edge is design for Drywall MUD, and I almost did it.
THEN I DECIDED, for a better Waterproofing WAY.
Window/Door Chalking (WaterProof and Paintable) for J-Edge Adhesive
The Smear the Chalking over the Bead Holes and over the edge.
RESULT OF THIS is my Drywall Edge and inside is pretty Moisure Proof.
I'll still paint the Sump Room Side Drywalls with a Waterproofing Paint.
(3) Tank Side Drywall (Finishing)
The right side Wall Had a Big gap (for Sliding the Tank in).
I use some strips of Plywood and INSTEAD of Mud, use the Chalking to hold it inside the J-Edge bead.
I also ran Chalking along the whole top Drywall Edge near the Tank (So the wall above is water resistant)
(4) The Crooked/Hacked CORNER
I Couldn't use Silicone at the Corner since the Corner has a significant Gap AND NEEDED TO BE STRONG, Even Finish.
I didn't want to use Corner Edging up to the Ceiling (since there is already one there)
So some Drywall Tape, a Small piece of SheetRock Paper/Metal Edging, and Some MUD worked.
That's it.
Never did this before, and learned/experimented along the way.
ONWARD to (Final Sanding, Painting, and Tank Trim)
Wally.B
Active member
The first thing that comes to mind with "so Fresh...so Clean" is a Dial Soap Commercial
NO MORE Dish Soap in this Tank (For those who know what happened just before I started this Build). Dishwasher Leak, dripping in my RO Reservoir .
om6acw
New member
Hey Wally, just kind of unrelated question to your tank, why did you opted out insurance involvement in repairs of your basement, it's just odd to me that someone who seems this much detail oriented towards his fish tank is happy with quality of the repairs he's done to his own house.
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The fishtank room he's building IS his basement (I'm pretty sure).
Wally.B
Active member
Your question is actually very related.
If it were not for the Flood and Insurance this project would have never happened, and I'd still have a 65 Gallon OLD tank.
The lucky, or unlucky part of the Flood is it happened right where 3 rooms meet (thus 3 rooms affected for costs of Wall and Flooring).
But there are a few reasons for doing myself:
-> Insurance Contractor wanted everything done fast so no time to break up things into a Fish Tank (They were going to just restore old Sump Room Walls as was)
-> Insurance Budget was MATERIAL AND LABOUR (roughly 50/50)
-> I took Budget $ and was Allowed to Spend it all on Materials
-----> Therefore I Got a Subfloor Expansion within Budget
-----> Insurance was going to replace with Carpet with Carpet , I got WPC for less. (and larger area)
-----> They were going to paint 6 flood damage walls only (Leaving scratches, and marks on the rest). I painted 14 walls (for less, and new Colors)
-----> I also had time to do some extra Electrical Outlets, and Home Theatre wiring.
Some money was left over to pay for a Portion of the New Fish Tank too.
And I took my time to do it right (thinking each step of the way), which would have never happened in a Flash Insurance Repair.
Downside, is it took 3 months, not 3 weeks, and I got that Slither Jammed under my finger nail.
And yes as Rakie says this is Basement, but it's coming out better quality than in our Living Room on Main Floor done by builder.
Wife Likes WPC Flooring and wish we had it in Kitchen (since Soft, Warm, and Waterproof)
So summary is things came out 500% better than letting insurance do it all.
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om6acw
New member
Thanks for your reply Wally, reason I asked was mostly related to drywall repairs and removing of the corner of the wall. I'm working in fire and flood restoration industry for bit over 20 years and from my experience you cheated your self out of some money as insurance companies usually pay out only 50-60% of what they are willing to pay there contractor if he does the work, they are also willing to implement changes in materials and finishes you want to upgrade to and contractor doing the work is usually more then happy accommodate owners who want to perform some changes in house for some extra cash on side. For what insurance was planing to do is probably what you have insured house to, that's why is recommended to call insurance and get house re-evaluated after every upgrade or bigger changes in house that effects it's value and changes scope of work that's required in case that something happen. I think you'll see that corner to start sagging and wall to ceiling separation in less then year and walls will develop cracks along side of drywall joins in 6 months or less. My assumptions are based on your pictures in this tread and improper materials and techniques used. But I guess it's your basement and it would be you looking at your tank and all those defects around it. And me asking this question is not trying to insult you or something, it was just extremely surprising to me to see it from you who's so nick picking about planing, record keeping and details analyzing everything that I had to ask as I am following your adventures for ages here.
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Wally.B
Active member
You were right.
I tried painting some cardboard strips to PRACTICE TANK TRIM.
I tried Matching Wall, and Also a Slightly Darker Shade in Same Color.
Just doesn't look right to me. (It would be good if I exposed all Tank Edges, and Had Black Silcone all around, but then I still need to cover with Trim for Top EuroTrim & Lower Water Line)
I could try a darker paint since paint store does offer changing paint to shades darker, but I can't see myself painting over beautiful oak.
So I TOOK a Shelf From Desk to Home Depot and Got matching STAIN, and a MATTE Overcoat.
Hope it looks good. (I can always sand the oak and paint if not, but not possible the other way around)
Wally.B
Active member
I did ask the Contractor for many adjustments. He walked away saying too complex (scheduling was the sticky point). Flooring guy wanted more money (since WPC labour was much higher than Carpet install labour)
I didn't get 66% (which they offered if I just took cash). I got 66% for Wall work, but got 100% for Flooring since I provided bills for Materials and they were ok with that since it added up to same as labour+materials.
Sure it's not perfect, but better than what I did before.
I don't think that corner will sag, since I re-enforced it to the Steel Main Basement beam (right above), and also from the Sump room side.
Sure some materials are not ideal, but Contractors don't build sump rooms for heavy salt/water/moisture at normal prices.
Last contractors build rotted, and flaked. Maybe not the best Contractor. I've lost some trust in them after last house painting (if you don't specify details to nth Degree).
Also I may not have shown the details. I am using Green Mold Tape for drywall joints. And Re-enforcing with wood at Joints on back side. Also vertically to Ceiling.
No insult taken. Offer advice if you know better ways. I like to learn.
We'll see in a year how things go. (The only thing I know may go wrong is the Fish tank bottom wall is attached to side walls (tank will vibrate on the SOLID overkill STAND), but those cracks will be behind desk.
My biggest concern a Year from now is will I keep Killing SPS Frags (like in the past)
I'll probably punch a few more holes in walls for things I forgot. I'll probably scratch up my office floor, and drip solder on it.
This is a Man Cave, and not a Corporate Headquarter.
But thanks for caring and looking out for me.
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om6acw
New member
Green drywall and tape is big scam manufacturers and sales people are pushing it on people, it is same drywall just with different color paper that is treated with chemicals to prevent mold growth, they are meant to be used in bathrooms where they will be covered with other 100% waterproof materials where occasional condensation on it would dry before mold can develop but if moisture get on it inside the wall it will develop mold growth. If you truly want to have water resistant and mold resistant wall section there, you should use cement board or fiberboard like DensArmor also for taping use fiber mash and hot mud (quick setting) and after painting install FRP over it 16" higher and 24" to the sides you want to protect and seal edges with high quality 50-60year silicone, don't use that Alex caulk if water gets on it is wild soften it up and you can slowly wash it away and mold love to grow in it. If you are afraid of additives in silicon for mold and mildew pick GE1 exterior silicon that doesn't contain them.
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Wally.B
Active member
Since you brought up the point, and I don't detail everything in this thread (since this is not Drywall 101 Course).
For all Drywall Joints I'm using this SheetRoc Nylon Mold Free Tape with Mud (same as Mold Free Green Drywall)
FRONT AND BACK SIDE OF DRYWALL (which is more than normal)
And along Drywall Join places (verticle near vibrating Tank Stand)
Wooden re-enforcement on back side (Not 2x4 since I want less thickness), but away from Tank (no touching Stand). Sealed with Flexible Silicone.
And as I mentioned/showed earlier in thread (I think). I put in Steel Stud Vertially at that Hanging Corner (to Main House Beam, with Impact Nails thru the beam All around SUMP ROOM too).
Good enough for a couple of years? (I hope)
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Wally.B
Active member
Good point.
I did consider leaving a gap between Drywall Stand and Walls, but wanted seamless.
If it turns out too noisy, I cut a line around stand drywall and got with a seam, and try to make it invisible, with some kind of foam filler (like Paintable Chalking). Should I still do that?
I did consider leaving a gap between Drywall Stand and Walls, but wanted seamless.
If it turns out too noisy, I cut a line around stand drywall and got with a seam, and try to make it invisible, with some kind of foam filler (like Paintable Chalking). Should I still do that?
Wally.B
Active member
I guess I got scammed on the Green Drywall. But whole project was 3 sheets so no big deal.
I did consider Cement board. Appeared to be thin. Heavy, and this isn't a shower.
In Past for Kitchen sink I used Wonderboard (high density), but finish wasn't ideal lto match exisiting drywall above tank.
I was thinking of spraying inside (sump Room) drywall and Studs with Rubber Spray Paint Stuff (kind you use to rubberize tool handles with) but I'll be using wood panels for covers, and a good latex paint.
BOY....I think we have NOW GONE OFF TOPIC (a bit)
I do appreciate you input.
