My Reef to Rainforest Build

[geaux xman]

tagging along for a great one.

is this 1/2" glass eurobraced? will there be a centerbrace?

 

[summitwynds]

Very promising! We'll be keeping an eye on this build. Love your interior design, and the big marine tank as a centerpiece of both rooms will be gorgeous. Have you given much thought yet as to how you'll control humidity in that closet? It will be a major concern that you'll need to design for.

Thanks!

On the office side it's going to be partially open above the tank, as well as the doors on the bottom - not going to spill the beans on what I'm going to do - - so if it gets humid I will install a fan that blows the air out of the closet. Being logs, it's a very dry house to begin with. I actually hope it increases the humidity some in the house.

 

[summitwynds]

tagging along for a great one.

is this 1/2" glass eurobraced? will there be a centerbrace?

Yes, 1/2" glass eurobraced, but no center brace.

 

[jt48]

very cool

 

[summitwynds]

We're making progress. The closet is cleaned out and my office is organized and rearranged - so I can get some work done Next up... the Stand.

 

[summitwynds]

double post

 

[summitwynds]

Reeflo Snapper/Dart pump should be arriving tomorrow, as well as the Trigger Sump.

And the new Multi size Sea Swirl for eurobraced tanks has been ordered.

Now to figure out how to connect them all!

 

[drummereef]

Awesome! Like I said, I think it will make a lot more sense once you have all the pieces of the puzzle in front of you. Just make sure to incorporate true unions on your return pump. I'd also add a couple regular unions on the 2 drain lines that go into the sump. I'd also add another union on the return bulkhead that leads to your pump. That way you can remove the entire sump without disturbing your plumbing if necessary.

Also, pick up some RectorSeal T Plus 2 PTFE Thread Sealant from Home Depot. You'll want to brush it on the threaded adapters on the in/out side of the Dart pump. Last time I checked Reeflo doesn't recommend using teflon tape on those threads.

Keep posting the pics and we'll help guide you through the process as you need help.

 

[drummereef]

Also....

I prefer to clean AND prime all my pvc before gluing. Some say it's overkill but it's cheap insurance if you ask me. Savko has clear primer so if you order some of the GF Compact Ball Valves, pick up some cleaner and clear primer with your order. You can get the solvent glue locally but they also have that as well.

 

[summitwynds]

Awesome! Like I said, I think it will make a lot more sense once you have all the pieces of the puzzle in front of you. Just make sure to incorporate true unions on your return pump. I'd also add a couple regular unions on the 2 drain lines that go into the sump. I'd also add another union on the return bulkhead that leads to your pump. That way you can remove the entire sump without disturbing your plumbing if necessary.

Also, pick up some RectorSeal T Plus 2 PTFE Thread Sealant from Home Depot. You'll want to brush it on the threaded adapters on the in/out side of the Dart pump. Last time I checked Reeflo doesn't recommend using teflon tape on those threads.

Keep posting the pics and we'll help guide you through the process as you need help.

Awesome.... I'll take you up on the guidance! Thanks!

 

[summitwynds]

Christmas came a little early today... a red calcium and green phosphate Hanna checker. And a monster pump and a heater.

 

[drummereef]

:dance: Congrats. Are you planning on incorporating a controller on your system? I'm always a proponent of using 2 small heaters instead of one large heater. Less risk of overheating the tank if there's a heater failure. i.e. Two 200 watt heaters instead of one 400 watt. If you use a controller then you'll have a little insurance.

 

[summitwynds]

:dance: Congrats. Are you planning on incorporating a controller on your system? I'm always a proponent of using 2 small heaters instead of one large heater. Less risk of overheating the tank if there's a heater failure. i.e. Two 200 watt heaters instead of one 400 watt. If you use a controller then you'll have a little insurance.

Yes, I sure am going to have a controller. I will be moving over my Apex Lite from my 75 gallon set up. I also have a couple other heaters, one in the 75g system now, one for my replacement water and another spare. I think those are 200w or maybe 300. I plan to put the 400w in the return area of my sump, and will continue to have it set to text and email me if it goes above or below. I love having the peace of mind that the Apex brings to the table. I sure wouldn't want to go back to life without one. My corals are doing better, I think its just such a stable environment when it comes to dosing, topping off. Im thinking I might get a super feeder and set that up on the Apex too, especially if I get any Anthias.

 

[muttley000]

Great rooms! Tagging along on this one!

 

[summitwynds]

The start of my plumbing list, I know I will need more, but I figured I would get this stuff to help me visualize how it will all come together

For the drains -
3 @ 1" bulkheads - Slip type?? or threaded?? not sure which I need to connect to: Flex or spa pvc
3 @1" true union valves - slip - maybe only need 1 - do all 3 drains need a valve? 2 will go to sump and 1 will go to refugium (see sump/refugium design on page 1 of this thread)

To connect the pump to the sump -
2" bulkhead - threaded - FPT flange side
2" elbow threaded - MPT street 90
2" true Union ball valve
2" pvc

Running from the pump to the 1" SeaSwirl & Manifold -
1 1/2" true union ball valve
1 1/2" pvc
3/4" pvc
1" pvc
various unions, tees, elbows, etc

Manifold
5 @ 3/4" slip by threaded tees
4 @ 1/2" threaded GF valves
1 @ 3/4" threaded GF valves
3/4" pvc
2 @ 3/4" unions

Comments are welcome!

 

[drummereef]

Are you going to plumb standard Durso standpipes or are you doing a "Bean" style drain? I'm assuming Durso with the configuration I'm seeing above...?

 

[summitwynds]

At first I was thinking bean animal with 1 drain of the three 1" drains being an emergency, and the other two drains going to the 3 inlets on the sump. One of those drains would need to be tee'd off. But after thinking about it, what would be the odds of 3 drains plugging? So now I'm thinking running all three drains, one would have a valve to control flow to the refugium. Also thinking of putting Maggie mufflers on all 3 to add a little extra safety from plugging up. The return pump (hybrid snapper/dart) will go to one 1" sea swirl (the new kind). Your thoughts on this set up?

 

[Breadman03]

At first I was thinking bean animal with 1 drain of the three 1" drains being an emergency, and the other two drains going to the 3 inlets on the sump. One of those drains would need to be tee'd off. But after thinking about it, what would be the odds of 3 drains plugging? So now I'm thinking running all three drains, one would have a valve to control flow to the refugium. Also thinking of putting Maggie mufflers on all 3 to add a little extra safety from plugging up. The return pump (hybrid snapper/dart) will go to one 1" sea swirl (the new kind). Your thoughts on this set up?

What are the odds of two clogging before you notice?

 

[summitwynds]

What are the odds of two clogging before you notice?

Right, my thoughts exactly. Plus with the Maggie mufflers (on all three) that will help keep snails out. I've got one drain on my tank now and it's never gotten clogged. But never say never. I can always change it to a bean animal system if this doesn't work

 

[drummereef]

If you are planning on doing daily visual checks of your system you'll be fine. Also if you have room, run slightly over-sized drains. I run standard 1.5" dursos. If you run your overflows at half their max flow rating then you'll have headroom in the off chance a drain should clog as well.

Can you split the return into 2 independent returns, or does your tank only have one spot for return plumbing? ...Maybe I misread your previous posts... Is the Sea Swirl going to be your only return?