Garage1217
GET OFF MY LAWN
I have not looked into it really. No failures yet!
My review of the new WaterBlaster HY7000 pump
- Thread starter Garage1217
- Start date
I have not looked into it really. No failures yet!
110galreef
New member
110galreef
New member
I was just about to do a write up on my new WB HY 7000, but came across this.
FWIW: i did a no head test in a 5g bucket of water. 65-66w !!!:beer:
Not sure if they have improved them or I just got a STUD!!! I also did try to close the output with my hand and it dropped to like 57w. I toyed around a bit, plugged in other known pumps to confirm the right reading...sure enuf!!
Maybe i got the energy consumption of the HY5000 and the impellar of the HY7000.....Maybe your original thought was right on GARAGE.....
Did i say 66w and some serious flow.....
I noticed the sticker on the pump notes 90w, and all the sites seem to show these at 88w....Mine ran at 66W (incase you missed it)
I plan to feed it thru 1" flex PVC to an OM squirt 2 way to 2- 3/4" returns and see how it goes from there. I will toy with the Lock line and see how it flows. May have to use a "Y" and two nozzles at each outlet. I also may need to add a small hole in the OM to let some flow go to the opposite outlet at all times. I plan to have them shoot from back corner to opposite front corner and down a tad.
I went with the HY7000 over the HY5000 as at ~ 6' head my current Syncra 4.0 could be upgraded to get some extra flow ~ 600gph (51w). The HY5000 at 6' is rated at 740gph which I wasn't sure was enuf. The HY7000 at 6' should be about 950gph.
Also I wanted to get some more random flow in the tank, at basically no extra electricity...next options were upgrade CLS pump...extra 100w & $450, or add PH/Vorteh/Tunze...., which wasn't happening.
If it is too much I can "T" it off a manifold and use about 150gph for my frag tank....and toss that pump of electrical grid!!
Also this HY7000 was only pulling 66W at 0 head! Woo Hoo should see about low 60's at given head i bet.
Reports to follow:wavehand:
FWIW: i did a no head test in a 5g bucket of water. 65-66w !!!:beer:
Not sure if they have improved them or I just got a STUD!!! I also did try to close the output with my hand and it dropped to like 57w. I toyed around a bit, plugged in other known pumps to confirm the right reading...sure enuf!!
Maybe i got the energy consumption of the HY5000 and the impellar of the HY7000.....Maybe your original thought was right on GARAGE.....
Did i say 66w and some serious flow.....
I noticed the sticker on the pump notes 90w, and all the sites seem to show these at 88w....Mine ran at 66W (incase you missed it)
I plan to feed it thru 1" flex PVC to an OM squirt 2 way to 2- 3/4" returns and see how it goes from there. I will toy with the Lock line and see how it flows. May have to use a "Y" and two nozzles at each outlet. I also may need to add a small hole in the OM to let some flow go to the opposite outlet at all times. I plan to have them shoot from back corner to opposite front corner and down a tad.
I went with the HY7000 over the HY5000 as at ~ 6' head my current Syncra 4.0 could be upgraded to get some extra flow ~ 600gph (51w). The HY5000 at 6' is rated at 740gph which I wasn't sure was enuf. The HY7000 at 6' should be about 950gph.
Also I wanted to get some more random flow in the tank, at basically no extra electricity...next options were upgrade CLS pump...extra 100w & $450, or add PH/Vorteh/Tunze...., which wasn't happening.
If it is too much I can "T" it off a manifold and use about 150gph for my frag tank....and toss that pump of electrical grid!!
Also this HY7000 was only pulling 66W at 0 head! Woo Hoo should see about low 60's at given head i bet.
Reports to follow:wavehand:
Last edited:
swissgaurd
New member
TheFishMan65
New member
He probably used a kill-a-watt or something similar. I think they run around $30 at home depot.
110galreef
New member
what size are the drains....1.5"?
Yeah this is what I use:
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&productId=202196386&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&ci_sku=202196386&ci_kw={keyword}&cm_mmc=shopping-_-googleads-_-pla-_-202196386&ci_gpa=pla&locStoreNum=6857
You will be going around and checking the energy use of everything! They are very useful tools
swissgaurd
New member
110galreef
New member
So i gotta tinker!!
So i gotta tinker!!
Garage...if I hijack feel free to tell me!
I can't wait to see how this thing will flow.....SO!:beer::eek2:
tank is 66" across. didn't even stir up sand. Now the output is for a 1.5" hose however!
Don't mind glare as the front wall access was removed for this testing.
Want to be sure it won't be way too powerful from my OM squirt......:uzi:
Actually wasn't too bad! So after an additional 5' of head the flow will really be making some currents for the corals & fish!
Now I just need to finish the instal properly!
So i gotta tinker!!
Garage...if I hijack feel free to tell me!
I can't wait to see how this thing will flow.....SO!:beer::eek2:
tank is 66" across. didn't even stir up sand. Now the output is for a 1.5" hose however!
Don't mind glare as the front wall access was removed for this testing.
Want to be sure it won't be way too powerful from my OM squirt......:uzi:
Actually wasn't too bad! So after an additional 5' of head the flow will really be making some currents for the corals & fish!
Now I just need to finish the instal properly!
Garage1217
GET OFF MY LAWN
haha nice test! Would hate to see a fish go through that impeller... Would be worse than a blender as sharp as the fins are!
110galreef
New member
Yeah those fins are sharp! I ended up doing a quick mock up. I placed the pump in the sump. Ran 1" flex hose to.the top and put a BV and a 3/4" loclike fitting on end. At full throttle it definitly moved a ton of water but shooting to front opposite corner it didn't stir anything or cause issues. But is pushing the limits of my current overflow setup. Throttled back about 30% seemed perfect. I will thus create a manifold and feed my frag tank and carbon reactor as well as DT. THis will save me the use of that pump and another 30w. I hope to have running later this weekend or by Monday.
The squirt 2 way on this pump in addition to the CLS and OM 4 way is goons be perfect flow and lots of randomness.
The squirt 2 way on this pump in addition to the CLS and OM 4 way is goons be perfect flow and lots of randomness.
Garage1217
GET OFF MY LAWN
How awesome a pump flows is rarely shown by feel and so forth, but when you use a pump with enthusiastic claims about its flow, and then go to a pump that really flows its numbers... it really opens your eyes. Suddenly large overflows and non siphon plumbing start to struggle or just barely keep up!
I remember going from a gx6000 to a wb7000 which were both rated similar... I went from what I thought was a lot of flow to wholly crap my tang is going to overflow as my drains cannot handle it! Only way I could run that 7000 is with water diverted into 2 other tanks, so it was running 3 total. Gotta love a good pump.
I remember going from a gx6000 to a wb7000 which were both rated similar... I went from what I thought was a lot of flow to wholly crap my tang is going to overflow as my drains cannot handle it! Only way I could run that 7000 is with water diverted into 2 other tanks, so it was running 3 total. Gotta love a good pump.
CalmSeasQuest
Active member
I've been running a HY-7000 for about a year. I continue to have problems with the pump seizing due to mineral deposits in the bushing. I seem to average no more than about 6 weeks between seizes, requiring the pump to be removed, torn down and vinegar soaked to remove the deposits.
I run a CaRx (10dKh / 440Ca - tank pH ~8.0) but nothing is dosed close to the pump that I can attribute to this problem. I'm wondering if anyone else is seeing this?
Also, does the impeller separate from the housing plate? I haven't found a way to remove the impeller from the bushing/plate. I didn't want to force it as it appears the shaft is ceramic and likely fragile.
I'm considering purchasing a spare impeller to speed return to service as it seems it's always the impeller bushing that gets fouled, rather than the pump housing.
CalmSeasQuest
Active member
That's odd - As I understand it, Water Blaster pumps are basically the Bubble Blaster pumps used on the Reef Octopus skimmers with a different impeller and volute.
psusocr
Active member
My apologies, i should have clarified that I have a 6' skimmer so it coudnt handle the back pressure of the column..it only raised the water in the skimmer about 6 inches from sump height(12") and that was with my gate valve almost all the way closed...It just didnt have any power under the pressure..I wonder if anyone is running it at a high head applicaton? I woud assume it would do the same thing as in my experience, but i could be wrong.
Yogre
Cheesehead Reefer
I've had exactly this issue. I've had the pump in service since October, and it seized on me while I was out of town over Christmas. I was very very lucky my tank didn't crash, the water was 68 when I got home. (Heaters are in the sump.)
I cleaned the impeller, it was so stuck it took a full day in vinegar to loosen it up. I thought the dosing feed from my kalkwasser reactor being in the same chamber in my sump as the pump's inlet might be the cause, so I moved the dosing line to a different compartment. Never had any sort of hiccup with my Blueline pump, though.
I couldn't see any way to disassemble the impeller either. It's definitely some sort of ceramic in the shaft, the Coralvue website mentions it but I can't think of it right now.
If this pump isn't reliable enough to run more than 6 weeks at a time, I'm going to have to get rid of it. I travel too much to have my main pump seize.
CalmSeasQuest
Active member
I'm in a similar situation as I also travel a lot. I like the pump, but I don't trust it. I'm curious to see if other are having similar problems - perhaps we can get Coralvue to address it. I've not heard of similar problems with the Bubble Blaster, so perhaps it's an impeller/bushing issue that can be resolved.
Regarding disassembling the impeller/bushing from the plate- It seems there must be a way to do it as the replacement impeller appears to be just the impeller without the housing plate.
FWIW, I placed a separate temp probe (Apex) in the DT along with a second heater as this has occurred so frequently, I didn't want to risk losing the tank due to low temps resulting from the return pump failure.
swissgaurd
New member
i havent had any problems yet.knock on wood
and i do dose kalk.i did contact corlvue and there was not any recommended spare parts.
they havent had any issues with the pumps.
i was thinking of purchasing a impeller to feel at ease.
i will dissassemble pump and have a look at the impellar soon.ive only been running the pump for 3 months.
i do shut the pump off once a week and it restarts so no problems there.
i think coralvue should be made aware of this,im sure they would like to know of this
and i do dose kalk.i did contact corlvue and there was not any recommended spare parts.
they havent had any issues with the pumps.
i was thinking of purchasing a impeller to feel at ease.
i will dissassemble pump and have a look at the impellar soon.ive only been running the pump for 3 months.
i do shut the pump off once a week and it restarts so no problems there.
i think coralvue should be made aware of this,im sure they would like to know of this
I'm looking at getting one of these pumps for my new tank but I'm totally new to SW and need some help deciding which to get, right now I'm thinking 5000.
The tank is a 90G with a 1500gph Gl*******s overflow (2x 1.5" drains). One drain will go into the first part of the sump while the other feeds the fuge. with the excess going to where the other one is located at the beginning of the sump (so I can regulated the flow on the fuge. to my liking). The return however will feed a manifold as follows: manifold with 5 outputs 1-feeding biopellet reactor, 1-feeding carbon & GFO reactor, 1-for future UV sterilizer & 1- main tank return. (I have head that if you don't run your main display return through the manifold you get less going to the tank and more in the accessories (Can someone verify this?) There are two locline returns off of the one from the manifold. (thinking 3/4" each with a "Y"to feed two different nozzles, so 4 nozzles total in the tank.
I'm also looking for help in return plumbing size I have been told 3/4" some say 1.5". The larger the pipe the less head pressure is what I was told.
Please suggest
In tank movement provided by 2 Ecotech MP10 ESw.
If the 5000 is to much I would also consider running a loop back to the sump to reduce the water pressure going into the accessories and display tank. Sort of making a closed loop with nothing on it.
Please share your thoughts.
The tank is a 90G with a 1500gph Gl*******s overflow (2x 1.5" drains). One drain will go into the first part of the sump while the other feeds the fuge. with the excess going to where the other one is located at the beginning of the sump (so I can regulated the flow on the fuge. to my liking). The return however will feed a manifold as follows: manifold with 5 outputs 1-feeding biopellet reactor, 1-feeding carbon & GFO reactor, 1-for future UV sterilizer & 1- main tank return. (I have head that if you don't run your main display return through the manifold you get less going to the tank and more in the accessories (Can someone verify this?) There are two locline returns off of the one from the manifold. (thinking 3/4" each with a "Y"to feed two different nozzles, so 4 nozzles total in the tank.
I'm also looking for help in return plumbing size I have been told 3/4" some say 1.5". The larger the pipe the less head pressure is what I was told.
Please suggest
In tank movement provided by 2 Ecotech MP10 ESw.
If the 5000 is to much I would also consider running a loop back to the sump to reduce the water pressure going into the accessories and display tank. Sort of making a closed loop with nothing on it.
Please share your thoughts.
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