cerreta
Premium Member
The new T6 bulbs arrived today and I had them installed within an hour. For those who are unfamiliar with these bulbs, they are tauted as the next generation T5HO bulbs. They actually feature the same 5/8ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚ OD with thicker glass compared to the T5 bulb. The major advantage to this bulb is that it has the same G13 Pin Configuration as he T8 and T12 bulbs. Therefore, one who wishes to change over from the T12 VHOââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢s can easily do so without buying new endcaps.
The bulbs must be run on T5 compatible electronic ballasts. I use an IceCap 660 ballast which will overdrive the T5HO and T6HO lamps. The T6 bulbs are sold in 24ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚Â, 36ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚ and 48ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚ standard lengths. I purchased the 48ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚ bulbs and they are rated at 55watts. The 48ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚ T5 bulb is rated at 54watts.
T6 lamps come in 50/50, 6500k, and actinic 03. For more info on the T6 bulbs avalablity check out http://www.naturallighting.com/order/store.php?crn=591
Larry is the point of contact. Shipping was fast and service was very good. He also sells on ebay, for a bit cheaper than the $20each on his website.
I used a LUX meter to record lamp output comparing the new T6HO lamp to the 9 month old T12 VHO, results are below.
For additional information, I read about these bulbs in the new Delbeek and Sprung book, The Reef Aquarium Vol 3. This book is a must have for the DIYer or anyone who is building a new reef. Anyhow, the authors claim that the T6 is more efficient and produces higher PAR levels compared to the T5 and run at a lower operating temperature too.
Here are my Observtions with the bulbs:
I purchased four 48ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚ T5HO 55watt lamps. Two were 50/50 and two were actinic 03.
The bulbs are stamped F55 ( I guess this refers to the wattage) T5.5. The 50/50 bulbs are stamped 14750K, while the actinics are stamped Blue.
Outside Diameter is 17.8mm (measured with micrometer). I have never owned T5 bulbs, so if someone out there has a micrometer, please measure your T5 and post the OD of the bulb here. Thanks.
The bulbs feel heavy, in fact they feel heavier than my T12 bulb, although I did not weigh them.
The T6 are very bright. They remind me of the power produced by power compacts. They seem to produce a lot of radiant heat and are difficult to look at, like the PCs. The VHOs do not hurt my eyes when looking at them.
The overall appearance of the T6HO lamp is ââ"šÂ¬Ã…"œcoolââ"šÂ¬Ã‚ in color temp, compared to the T12 VHO, which I rate as ââ"šÂ¬Ã…"œwarm.ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚Â. For those unaware of the meaning of this, I will try to explain. Warm colors appear as reds, pink, and yellows, while cool or crisp colors appear as blue or white. I often thing of 14k and 20 k MH lamps to be blue, therefore they are cool in color temp. The T12 VHOs are known to be very warm. This color often showcases the fluorescent colors of corals very well. Tanks with VHO lighting often look pink and purple, compare to the blue hue given off by MH lit tanks.
Anyhow, the T6 is bluer than the T12s. Not too surprising, but I do detect more radiant heat from the T6 lamps compared to the T12. This was surprising to me. In fact the lamps felt hot to the touch, like Power Compact bulbs. How do the T5 bulbs feel when touched?
The linear lamps produce fairly consistant LUX readings when moving the recorder horizontally from one end of the bulb to the other. This does not occur with MH lamps. The LUX is very strong when directly below the lamp, but is reduced greatly when moving horizontally away from the lamp. Therefore, any flurouscent lamp can provide consistant tank coverage if enough bulbs are used.
Here are the Results:
I used a LUX meter to measure lamp output. The lamps were mounted in the canopy with no reflectors. The Lux meter has an 8ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚ piece of eggcrate attached to the light meter recorder. This is the distance at which the recorder is at when measurements were recorded. Measurement was taken of two bulbs at a time. This is done because it is not possible to isolate the recorder from the adjacscent lamp. Pics will show how they are mounted. The Lux recorder was moved horizontally from one end of the bulb to the other several times. The highest repeatable measurement was recorded. There was one 50/50 and one actinic bulb measured at a time.
Front VHO T12 URI lamps with internal reflectors, 9months old 50/50 and actinic = 8450 LUX
Rear VHO T12, URI lamps with internal reflectors, 9months old 50/50 and actinic = 8880 LUX
Front T6HO, new, 50/50 and actinic = 7900LUX (w/reflector draped over top of bulbs = 10,010LUX
Rear T6HO, new, 50/50 and actinic = 7600LUX (w/reflector draped over top of bulbs = 9,880LUX
MH 250watt Reef Fanatic Electronic ballast with 4mo old Phoenix 14k bulbs = 31,500LUX
Conclusion: My readings in The Reef Aquarium led me to believe that the use of T5 and T6 bulbs could replace the use of MH bulbs and that they were more powerful. According to the LUX measurements, I do not see that possibility. I must admit, that the use of reflectors did increase LUX by about 40%. This was a crappy reflector that I just rigged over the bulbs. I think a proper reflector would be very helpful. I will likely buy a few and repeat the recordings.
I am also tempted to invest in some T5 lamps just to see for myself, which lamps produce more LUX. I also want to feel the difference in radiant heat.
REVIEW OF BLUE LED 25 bulb 110volt LAMP
I also purchased a 25 lamp LED blue light that uses 110 volt and screws directly into an ordinary light socket. It produces an amazing 5550LUX. The incandescent blue 25watt bulb produced a mere 110LUX.
Here are the pics you have been waiting for. Enjoy!!!
Blue LED lamp
Here is the old incandescent blue 25watt moon light bulb
Here is the new LED lamp. Note how this has a narrow focus of projected light, unlike the incandescent wide dispersion pattern.
Tank shot of the LED lamp./ I took a shot of the incandescent, but nothing came out, the bulb was too dim. BTW, this lamp really brings out fluorescent colors in the corals. Super colors!!! Canââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢t detect this in the picture.
The bulbs must be run on T5 compatible electronic ballasts. I use an IceCap 660 ballast which will overdrive the T5HO and T6HO lamps. The T6 bulbs are sold in 24ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚Â, 36ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚ and 48ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚ standard lengths. I purchased the 48ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚ bulbs and they are rated at 55watts. The 48ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚ T5 bulb is rated at 54watts.
T6 lamps come in 50/50, 6500k, and actinic 03. For more info on the T6 bulbs avalablity check out http://www.naturallighting.com/order/store.php?crn=591
Larry is the point of contact. Shipping was fast and service was very good. He also sells on ebay, for a bit cheaper than the $20each on his website.
I used a LUX meter to record lamp output comparing the new T6HO lamp to the 9 month old T12 VHO, results are below.
For additional information, I read about these bulbs in the new Delbeek and Sprung book, The Reef Aquarium Vol 3. This book is a must have for the DIYer or anyone who is building a new reef. Anyhow, the authors claim that the T6 is more efficient and produces higher PAR levels compared to the T5 and run at a lower operating temperature too.
Here are my Observtions with the bulbs:
I purchased four 48ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚ T5HO 55watt lamps. Two were 50/50 and two were actinic 03.
The bulbs are stamped F55 ( I guess this refers to the wattage) T5.5. The 50/50 bulbs are stamped 14750K, while the actinics are stamped Blue.
Outside Diameter is 17.8mm (measured with micrometer). I have never owned T5 bulbs, so if someone out there has a micrometer, please measure your T5 and post the OD of the bulb here. Thanks.
The bulbs feel heavy, in fact they feel heavier than my T12 bulb, although I did not weigh them.
The T6 are very bright. They remind me of the power produced by power compacts. They seem to produce a lot of radiant heat and are difficult to look at, like the PCs. The VHOs do not hurt my eyes when looking at them.
The overall appearance of the T6HO lamp is ââ"šÂ¬Ã…"œcoolââ"šÂ¬Ã‚ in color temp, compared to the T12 VHO, which I rate as ââ"šÂ¬Ã…"œwarm.ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚Â. For those unaware of the meaning of this, I will try to explain. Warm colors appear as reds, pink, and yellows, while cool or crisp colors appear as blue or white. I often thing of 14k and 20 k MH lamps to be blue, therefore they are cool in color temp. The T12 VHOs are known to be very warm. This color often showcases the fluorescent colors of corals very well. Tanks with VHO lighting often look pink and purple, compare to the blue hue given off by MH lit tanks.
Anyhow, the T6 is bluer than the T12s. Not too surprising, but I do detect more radiant heat from the T6 lamps compared to the T12. This was surprising to me. In fact the lamps felt hot to the touch, like Power Compact bulbs. How do the T5 bulbs feel when touched?
The linear lamps produce fairly consistant LUX readings when moving the recorder horizontally from one end of the bulb to the other. This does not occur with MH lamps. The LUX is very strong when directly below the lamp, but is reduced greatly when moving horizontally away from the lamp. Therefore, any flurouscent lamp can provide consistant tank coverage if enough bulbs are used.
Here are the Results:
I used a LUX meter to measure lamp output. The lamps were mounted in the canopy with no reflectors. The Lux meter has an 8ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚ piece of eggcrate attached to the light meter recorder. This is the distance at which the recorder is at when measurements were recorded. Measurement was taken of two bulbs at a time. This is done because it is not possible to isolate the recorder from the adjacscent lamp. Pics will show how they are mounted. The Lux recorder was moved horizontally from one end of the bulb to the other several times. The highest repeatable measurement was recorded. There was one 50/50 and one actinic bulb measured at a time.
Front VHO T12 URI lamps with internal reflectors, 9months old 50/50 and actinic = 8450 LUX
Rear VHO T12, URI lamps with internal reflectors, 9months old 50/50 and actinic = 8880 LUX
Front T6HO, new, 50/50 and actinic = 7900LUX (w/reflector draped over top of bulbs = 10,010LUX
Rear T6HO, new, 50/50 and actinic = 7600LUX (w/reflector draped over top of bulbs = 9,880LUX
MH 250watt Reef Fanatic Electronic ballast with 4mo old Phoenix 14k bulbs = 31,500LUX
Conclusion: My readings in The Reef Aquarium led me to believe that the use of T5 and T6 bulbs could replace the use of MH bulbs and that they were more powerful. According to the LUX measurements, I do not see that possibility. I must admit, that the use of reflectors did increase LUX by about 40%. This was a crappy reflector that I just rigged over the bulbs. I think a proper reflector would be very helpful. I will likely buy a few and repeat the recordings.
I am also tempted to invest in some T5 lamps just to see for myself, which lamps produce more LUX. I also want to feel the difference in radiant heat.
REVIEW OF BLUE LED 25 bulb 110volt LAMP
I also purchased a 25 lamp LED blue light that uses 110 volt and screws directly into an ordinary light socket. It produces an amazing 5550LUX. The incandescent blue 25watt bulb produced a mere 110LUX.
Here are the pics you have been waiting for. Enjoy!!!
Blue LED lamp
Here is the old incandescent blue 25watt moon light bulb
Here is the new LED lamp. Note how this has a narrow focus of projected light, unlike the incandescent wide dispersion pattern.
Tank shot of the LED lamp./ I took a shot of the incandescent, but nothing came out, the bulb was too dim. BTW, this lamp really brings out fluorescent colors in the corals. Super colors!!! Canââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢t detect this in the picture.
