My rotor shaft on my BK 2000 snapped.

Germany told be it was the X-1 which is for the Deluxe 200. Though you have the BM2000, I think the X-1 is the correct impeller for you skimmer and not the 1-3. I can double check again with Germany but they did say X-1 which is 1-1 in the US


I see, I misread/misunderstood the "Size" reference listed in the technical data. I assumed the "size 50" meant 50mm. I see now that down below the magnet dimensions match up. I was also thrown by the listing under the BK1000 instead of the BK2000 (which is how my motor block is labeled) I think thats the part that just concerns me the most.

Not trying to argue or doubt you, you obviously are extremely knowledgable I just want to avoid any possibility of accidentally ordering the wrong part. Again thanks so much for your help.

complete rotor Bubble King®

Technical data:
for Bubble King® pump 1000
with metal-shaft
needle wheel:
size 50
POM black
110V/60Hz

magnet-dimensions
length: 60mm
diameter Ø: 30mm
 
I see, I misread/misunderstood the "Size" reference listed in the technical data. I assumed the "size 50" meant 50mm. I see now that down below the magnet dimensions match up. I was also thrown by the listing under the BK1000 instead of the BK2000 (which is how my motor block is labeled) I think thats the part that just concerns me the most.

Not trying to argue or doubt you, you obviously are extremely knowledgable I just want to avoid any possibility of accidentally ordering the wrong part. Again thanks so much for your help.

complete rotor Bubble King®

Technical data:
for Bubble King® pump 1000
with metal-shaft
needle wheel:
size 50
POM black
110V/60Hz

magnet-dimensions
length: 60mm
diameter Ø: 30mm


Completely understandable. I will message Germany to confirm again and get back to you Monday.
 
Sorry for the delay. I have Germany reviewing the pictures you posted again to be 100% certain. I think the part number I provided above was correct. They replied back this morning with a question and I sent them the pictures again as soon as i got in but it was evening in Germany. As such, hang tight until tomorrow.
 
So the rotor I linked to above is the correct rotor. You could use the Rotor for the BK2000 which is a larger rotor but that is suited more for the 300 series skimmers. It will work fine but you may need to lower your sump level or open the wedge pipe some.

60mm rotor for Deluxe 200. Disregard the BK1000. This rotor will work fine and is most likely what you have now as it was the recommended rotor for the Deluxe 200.
http://royalexclusiv.com/Spare-Part...or-Bubble-King-skimmer-pump-BK-1000::852.html

This is the other 60mm rotor for BK2000.
http://royalexclusiv.com/Spare-Part...or-Bubble-King-skimmer-pump-BK-2000::181.html

As I said, both will work but the first one is the rotor that the Deluxe 200's were shipping with.
 
Last edited:
So the rotor I linked to above is the correct rotor. You could use the Rotor for the BK2000 which is a larger rotor but that is suited more for the 300 series skimmers. It will work fine but you may need to lower your sump level or open the wedge pipe some.

60mm rotor for Deluxe 200. Disregard the BK1000. This rotor will work fine and is most likely what you have now as it was the recommended rotor for the Deluxe 200.
http://royalexclusiv.com/Spare-Part...or-Bubble-King-skimmer-pump-BK-1000::852.html

This is the other 60mm rotor for BK2000.
http://royalexclusiv.com/Spare-Part...or-Bubble-King-skimmer-pump-BK-2000::181.html

As I said, both will work but the first one is the rotor that the Deluxe 200's were shipping with.

Awesome! Thanks so much for all your help? I really appreciate it!
 
So the rotor I linked to above is the correct rotor. You could use the Rotor for the BK2000 which is a larger rotor but that is suited more for the 300 series skimmers. It will work fine but you may need to lower your sump level or open the wedge pipe some.

60mm rotor for Deluxe 200. Disregard the BK1000. This rotor will work fine and is most likely what you have now as it was the recommended rotor for the Deluxe 200.
http://royalexclusiv.com/Spare-Part...or-Bubble-King-skimmer-pump-BK-1000::852.html

This is the other 60mm rotor for BK2000.
http://royalexclusiv.com/Spare-Part...or-Bubble-King-skimmer-pump-BK-2000::181.html

As I said, both will work but the first one is the rotor that the Deluxe 200's were shipping with.



Hi slief,

I received my replacement rotor today. It does indeed look like an exact match. However when I reassembled the pump and plugged it in I noticed very little was happening. Upon further inspection it is apparent that the pump is only turning the rotor intermittently. It starts to run then it stops an might try to start again but never really gets going.It seems like the motor block is struggling to turn it. I also notice was seems like a significant shake in motor when it is turning. Everything seems to turn freely and does not seem bound in any way. I have disassembled and reassembled a couple times now which didn't help.

Any ideas what could be wrong?

Thanks,
Kris
 
Hi slief,

I received my replacement rotor today. It does indeed look like an exact match. However when I reassembled the pump and plugged it in I noticed very little was happening. Upon further inspection it is apparent that the pump is only turning the rotor intermittently. It starts to run then it stops an might try to start again but never really gets going.It seems like the motor block is struggling to turn it. I also notice was seems like a significant shake in motor when it is turning. Everything seems to turn freely and does not seem bound in any way. I have disassembled and reassembled a couple times now which didn't help.

Any ideas what could be wrong?

Thanks,
Kris

First thing I would do is pull the bearing and make sure it's clean inside the orifice and also installed properly. If it's not inserted properly, the shaft will bind. That said, if its not that, then you will need a new block.

Here is a link to the info on the bearing. See post 2.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2573406

We have the blocks in stock. If you need a new block, this is the replacement block for that pump assuming yours has the AKB which is the red tube that connects from the pumps cover to the side block.
http://royalexclusiv.com/Spare-Part...or-Bubble-King-Supermarin-1500-2500::177.html

If your pump does not have the AKB, then you would likely need this block. If you don't have the AKB model, please post a couple pictures so I can see each side of the block.
http://royalexclusiv.com/Spare-Part...-block-for-Red-Dragon-pump-4-5m-17m::175.html
 
First thing I would do is pull the bearing and make sure it's clean inside the orifice and also installed properly. If it's not inserted properly, the shaft will bind. That said, if its not that, then you will need a new block.

Here is a link to the info on the bearing. See post 2.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2573406

We have the blocks in stock. If you need a new block, this is the replacement block for that pump assuming yours has the AKB which is the red tube that connects from the pumps cover to the side block.
http://royalexclusiv.com/Spare-Part...or-Bubble-King-Supermarin-1500-2500::177.html

If your pump does not have the AKB, then you would likely need this block. If you don't have the AKB model, please post a couple pictures so I can see each side of the block.
http://royalexclusiv.com/Spare-Part...-block-for-Red-Dragon-pump-4-5m-17m::175.html



The pump is clean as it could be. I believe the bearing is seated properly. The o-ring side up correct?

It will really suck to now have to buy a new motor block as well. I guess the thought being that the block was damaged somehow when rotor broke? I thought the electronics inside the block shut down if it detects something isnt right?

I guess it just seems a bit wierd that shaft breaks and the block goes bad at the very same time.

Thanks!
Kris
 
The pump is clean as it could be. I believe the bearing is seated properly. The o-ring side up correct?

It will really suck to now have to buy a new motor block as well. I guess the thought being that the block was damaged somehow when rotor broke? I thought the electronics inside the block shut down if it detects something isnt right?

I guess it just seems a bit wierd that shaft breaks and the block goes bad at the very same time.

Thanks!
Kris

Yes, o-ring side up. What likely happened is when the rotor snapped, there was an excessive load on the block which overheated the coils. It's also possible that whatever led to the impeller shaft snapping was what caused the motor to go too and that is likely a heavy load or binding between the needle wheel and the cover or block. There is an overload protection circuit but that just causes the pump to shut itself off and try to restart when it detects too much heat in the coils. If it continues to do that, the coil inside block overheats and the block can die prematurely. That is about the only thing that causes these blocks to fail. Overload caused by friction or the impeller seizing. My guess is then the shaft sheared, the magnet was free floating inside the block and no longer centered. The block would have continued to try to spin the magnet which would have come in contact with the sides of the block or the face. That would have overloaded it. That or what ever caused the shaft to break in the first place. The good thing is that the new shaft you got should me metal. The new block if properly maintained will last 10+ years if you keep it clean inside.
 
Yes, o-ring side up. What likely happened is when the rotor snapped, there was an excessive load on the block which overheated the coils. It's also possible that whatever led to the impeller shaft snapping was what caused the motor to go too and that is likely a heavy load or binding between the needle wheel and the cover or block. There is an overload protection circuit but that just causes the pump to shut itself off and try to restart when it detects too much heat in the coils. If it continues to do that, the coil inside block overheats and the block can die prematurely. That is about the only thing that causes these blocks to fail. Overload caused by friction or the impeller seizing. My guess is then the shaft sheared, the magnet was free floating inside the block and no longer centered. The block would have continued to try to spin the magnet which would have come in contact with the sides of the block or the face. That would have overloaded it. That or what ever caused the shaft to break in the first place. The good thing is that the new shaft you got should me metal. The new block if properly maintained will last 10+ years if you keep it clean inside.

Well that really sucks but I do appreciate your prompt reply. Thanks for that!
 
Yes, o-ring side up. What likely happened is when the rotor snapped, there was an excessive load on the block which overheated the coils. It's also possible that whatever led to the impeller shaft snapping was what caused the motor to go too and that is likely a heavy load or binding between the needle wheel and the cover or block. There is an overload protection circuit but that just causes the pump to shut itself off and try to restart when it detects too much heat in the coils. If it continues to do that, the coil inside block overheats and the block can die prematurely. That is about the only thing that causes these blocks to fail. Overload caused by friction or the impeller seizing. My guess is then the shaft sheared, the magnet was free floating inside the block and no longer centered. The block would have continued to try to spin the magnet which would have come in contact with the sides of the block or the face. That would have overloaded it. That or what ever caused the shaft to break in the first place. The good thing is that the new shaft you got should me metal. The new block if properly maintained will last 10+ years if you keep it clean inside.

So I just tried to order the block with the AKB and it says the item is out of stock. I assume thats not really the case?

Thanks,
Kris
 
PM me your order number along with your email address and the part number you ordered. I will get an email going to Ft. Myers. Our website only lists stock items and deactivates inventory once they are out of stock. The item is now showing delisted due to the lack of inventory. Your order would have taken it off the site if that was the last one we had. That said, the website inventory isn't always accurate and from time to time, here is more inventory than the website shows.
 
I just messaged Ft. Myers. I should know shortly but I am pretty sure we have a couple of them and I know there are several more in the container thats due to arrive very soon.
 
Looks like an order was received from you for the block. I think we should have them. It's already almost 7PM there and they are gone from the office but we will have a confirmation for you first thing tomorrow.
 
Looks like an order was received from you for the block. I think we should have them. It's already almost 7PM there and they are gone from the office but we will have a confirmation for you first thing tomorrow.


Thanks sounds like you have what you need. I PMed my order number and address to you just in case.

Thanks again!!
 
Looks like an order was received from you for the block. I think we should have them. It's already almost 7PM there and they are gone from the office but we will have a confirmation for you first thing tomorrow.

Got the new pump on and my skimmer is back in business, skimming better than ever. I just want to express a ton of thanks to you and Royal Exclusive. Your customer service was top notch! Some of the best I have ever experienced.

Again thanks so much!
 
Got the new pump on and my skimmer is back in business, skimming better than ever. I just want to express a ton of thanks to you and Royal Exclusive. Your customer service was top notch! Some of the best I have ever experienced.

Again thanks so much!

Great to hear!! Very glad to help! :beer:
 
Back
Top