My Tank Thread (Take3) ★Total AUTOMATION★ DIY Doser, Sump, AlgaeScrubber, WaterChnges

[Wally.B]

Hammer or no, Wally, you could mcgyver a way into that box with your eyes closed!!!

No I thought of that possibility.
See that time-lock dial on the left.
There is a Titanium wired that is welded to the 50,000 Volt side of the Metal Halide Ballast.
Any attempt to open the box Before Sept 1st, will vaporise all the liquids inside.
So if I want to dose drops again, I'll have to wait.

 

[Wally.B]

.... and I did run into one small technical issue.

The bottle of AcroPower wouldn't fit in there!!

It's almost empty (About 25ml, enough for 5x 5ml doses), so I really need to ration it.

I will wean myself off Additives slowly, or I may get the ShAkeS.

Give me a small break .

This tank setup should be as close to perfect/stable as one can get, and seeing that Sunset Mille bleaching was the last straw.
I will leave the millie in there, even it if dies, as a last reminder. Hoping it encrusts in nice Coraline. (So long as is doesn't start spreading Algae)

I really want to see what SPS Corals do Naturally for the first time ever. Trust me.

 

[Wally.B]

TANK LOCKDOWN (No Changes) 1 Month (Entry SnapShot)

So after reading ED's thread, I got general feeling I'm on the right track with the new setup.

What I finally got an better understanding on in Circulation FLOW needed for SPS.
As he puts it "As strong as possible, without ripping skin off, and wide flow is better".
My Flow is all wide, and random, so I cranked up circulation a bit on ALL pumps, plus Return Pump(Sea Swirl), and general Circulation overnight. (Sorry Fish).

-> Dosing is stable at 12ml/Day split into 2 Doses, to Keep Alk at around 7.5-7.7.
-> Mag is a bit on High side 1400 (and AF Components have Mag/Calc in one, so will be tough to drop, but give it some time with Regular WC's and daily Stable Dosing).
-> PO4 dropped even more down to 0.03 ppm, so I slowed down the GFO reactor.
-> NO3 is still close to 5.0 ppm, and twice a week Water Changes should keep it there or lower.
-> K has dropped from 490 to 460, but again, WC and AF1,2,3 should keep that in check.

I moved the Lighting Fixture 1/4" inch down, and placed a few select loose frags a various levels on Kong Rack. S
I Split a nice Higher Light Acro compared to Bonsai into two and put each piece as two extremes. Bonsai's are at 4 different levels.
The Yellow Acro's for now remain below mid level (to be safe).


I will take close ups of each Frag for Reference, and show progress in a Month.

This is the Final Photo of Tank/Frag (FRONT and BACK with KONG Rack).

I do notice the brown algae film on the Sand Bed in the middle. Looks like a low flow area, so I may remove the sand with Siphon from there.

Also after reading ED's thread, I've decided that I also won't be feeding Corals any Commercial Specialty foods, but will increase frequency of feeding fish. (As he calls it "High Energy")

So basically it will be Water changes (Extra if needed), AF1,2,3 Dosing and Equipment maintenance. (Nothing else)

Till next month....

Wally

 

[reefmutt]

I'll be waiting.
And if I hear a news story about some crazy aquarist holding a bottle of acropower, who got electrocuted in his basement, I'll know what happened..

 

[MarauderMike]

As an engineer I love your approach to reefing. I am just starting a tank, so I need to take some baby steps first. Hopefully some day I can aspire to this level of automation

 

[Wally.B]

As an engineer I love your approach to reefing. I am just starting a tank, so I need to take some baby steps first. Hopefully some day I can aspire to this level of automation

Nice to meet a Fellow Engineer.
Strange, I graduated in Electrical Engineering, but had Computers as Hobby.
I never worked a single day in 31 years as Electrical Engineer after getting into IT. Never regretted having Engineering as a skill since it solves any problem.

If you are starting a tank you have a Ton to learn. And learning will never end, since as you get better you can take on tougher challenges.

But you will be on the right track with some Automation, so you can focus on the hard stuff (Tank Aging, Corals, Water Parameters, Maintenance, etc).

I would start with Auto Top up since that is the greatest pain that is simple to automate. Plenty of options out there. Or build your own (but test it 100%).

To be honest, I do love the Fish Tank Hobby, but I actually use it to it to find a purpose for Building itch, plus Hardware and Software skills.
Nothing more boring the designing a useless project to learn engineering.
Absolutely gratifying making something you can use.
Better if it makes life easier.


If you or anyone in interested in making a Dosing/Water Change controller, I am willing to share.

I built a 2nd DOSER(II) Plus controller out of duplicate parts. Took me 10 minutes. I use it to test new features, since real controller is NOW hooked up to tank (and doing things).

The parts are cheap, and wiring easy for anyone with basic electronics skills.

The hard work was 6 Months of writing the complex, very reliable, Bullet Proof code.

I'm willing to Share the Ariduno Sketch Code, if anyone would like.
I'd provide a wiring diagram to make the basic Doser in a Carboard box like above.
The code is written so that you can build a subset of all the features. (ie just a 2 Pump Doser, Nothinig else. Or go the max with everything I have).

Parts list if from China. Aliexpress. I would guess parts cost $60 total.

You'd have to get any dosing pump and make a nice case.

 

[JimON]

Always a good read, Wally. Thanks for putting in the effort!:beer:

 

[Wally.B]

NEXT PROJECT (Why Waste Good Water, Play Area, and Backup Frags in Future)

I wasn't planning on this, even though I tried something similar with my 2 Spare 10 Gallon Tanks.

I got this idea for setting up a Frag tank when since I'm doing two Auto Water changes a week (2.5 Gallon).

This is pretty good water, with ideal parameters, and has some nutrients.
Why waste the water down the drain.
I was thinking of using it for other LPS tank since it's way dirtier, and much higher N&P, but I hate to cross contaminated tanks. (ie spread Cyano to a perfectly running tank, etc)

So I have this work table that I got during Universtity from Someone's throw out. It's served me well for many dozens of projects.

THE AUTO WATER CHANGER, DUMP bin is right next to it.
So I could automate the Water change directly into the Frag tank.

IT WILL BE IDEAL for a shallow Frag Tank. Not too big (1/2 the space), but enough for 30+ Frag, nicely spread out.
TOTALLY ISOLATED (Stand Alone)

I have that old Magentic 2x150W MH fixture, and I kept my MH Bulbs when I replaced them each year.
Bulbs will be good enough for a Frag tank. Would only run 1 bulb, and if OLD Ballast goes, I have the 2nd as a backup.

I'll be able to measure the PARS properly since MH.
Slight offsets in Frag placements for Lower Pars, Higher just centered above.

I have my old return pumps when I went DC returns.

THIS IS GOOD for "IF" I succeed in the SPS colonies to have a isolated backup of all my SPS.

Basically I have everything except a FRAG TANK.
May use bins, or acrylic, or whatever I can hack together.

** THIS PROJECT will "Keep my iching Tinkering Hands Away" from the SPS tank (Which is in NO CHANGE LOCKDOWN) **

 

[Wally.B]

TWO FRAGS in SPS TANK (Not doing well at tips). Everything Else (OTHER FRAGS) are fine.

I'm not worried at all since all other Frags are in great shape.
Most importantly the Pink Cadillac.

But these two Frags are getting Algae take over at tips.
They are not bleaching like the Sunset, just not looking great.

It may have been the initial introduction, and in-appropriate handling/acclimatization.

JUST WATCHING. I'm not going to even cut the tips at this point.

 

[Wally.B]

Suspended Particulate (With Increased Tank Circulation)

Since I cranked up the overall circulation, the tank is having a lot of particulate floating around.

Not a dust storm, but tanks isn't crystal clear as before.
Mostly happening since the Sand Bed won't sit still anymore.

I think this is fine, since so long as it's suspended, it will go down the return and be cleaned up in Sump Filtration. (Will just take time).

Rocks all look like they are being basted clean continoulsly.

 

[Wally.B]

SNAPSHOT (FRAG REFERENCE) Photo

A few Photo's of Frag, to compare later.

These Colors are not 100% accurate (Tough to get White Balance right), but close enough to show any contrasts and Whatever Little PE is there.
I don't enhance any Color Boost to Photos, so that I can see improvements in the Future. (I look at Photo on Computer, and Frag in Tank, and match as best as I can with my eyes)

Too soon to say, but it appears the Corals Look Better already with the No Additives after few days, and stronger Circulation, one day.

Phols Xtra was turning Red Planet Pink (Bottom Photo, Middle Frag), now it's returning to Red, with Green Contrast Colors.

 

[Wally.B]

GREATEST IMPROVEMENT EVER (Semi-Automated)


After doing 1 button Auto Water changes, I'm spoiled.

So I improved the Kitchen Tank Water change a bit.


Some real advanced Technology

OK......Not the most advanced, like the Basement Tank Total Automation..

Can be a Bit easier when doing 10 Gallon Water Change, since all can be done in sump (no need to do anything in DT).

But considering for last 15+ years, I did everything, hauling buckets between two floors, this is better. Much better.

 

[Wally.B]

BTW.

Notice the Power Bar in above pictures.

I got these a few years ago from a Computer Store (I-CAN Brand). $12 Each.
I see similar version on Amazon for more $. https://www.amazon.ca/Rosewill-RPS-...9050550&sr=8-8&keywords=power+strip+6+outlets


They are great for Fish Tank Manual Control. I have 3 strategically placed.
(Sump1, Sump2, Sink).

Each Outlet has a Individual Switch with light, and that is really handy.

Kind of a form of Semi-Automation/Control .....
(To Turn on pumps, heaters, etc....Without Hanving to Yank the Cord, or use two hands to pull out properly)

 

[Wally.B]

MAG too High (Calc Bit High for Balance Alk=7.5 dKH)

My MAG has reached 1500 ppm. I don't like that.
Salifert Test Turned Blue on Last Drop.

CALC is 430 which is not Balanced, but otherwise acceptable. Alk continues to be very stable around 7.5-7.7 (tough to read very accurately on Salifert Kit)

I am turning off AquaForest Component 1 Dosing for now.
It contains the CALC, MAG and other Trace Elements (Mg, Ca, Sr, Ba, Co, Mn, Cu, Fe, Zn, Ni, Cr ).

Component 2,3 can continue since I need the ALK to stay stable.

I kind of don't like the AF Component 1,2,3 system since you can't control ALK/MAG individually.
I kind of had a gut feeling on that, but thought it might be ok for small Frags, light consumption load.

I need to check my New Water Mix (TM Pro, AF RS), and see what Mag is in there.
The 2x a week Water changes, could be topping up MAG as well.

If needed, I'll convert back to 2 Part B-Ionic (ALK/CALC) which I have for other tank. And use AF for other Tank, till things balance in the SPS tank..

I will have to learn the new Dosing Levels on B-Ionic. Will be lower (ml), so must be really careful on ALK dosing. (PITA !!)

 

[Wally.B]

NEW SALT WATER MIX (MAG over 1500)?????

I tested my Large Bin of New Salt Water Mix.
SG=1.025 Alk-7.5

But Mag isn't readable by Salifert (>1500).
Is my test kit is bad? Contaminated. It's brand new.

Will test other tank, since I just did the Water Change with Reef Crystals.

 

[Wally.B]

KITCHEN TANK (MAG =1500). Last Drop on Salifert Test kit.

This can't be true. Why would MAG in both tanks be so high.
Kitchen Tank hasn't had a water change done in a month.
And it's different Salt (Reef Crystals). And I dose B-Ionic (Calc/Alk).

TEST KIT MUST BE BAD.

 

[Wally.B]

SOLVED, BrandNew Test kit BAD ( Did retest with OLD TEST KIT ) MAG=1290 (SPS TANK)

This is a first for me on a unexpired good to 2021 testkit. Salifert Test Kit is testing wrong.

I had my old (still not expired, till 2020) Salifert MAG kit. Left over, but enough for 3-4 tests.

MAG in SPS TANK is (1290). Which is perfect.


I can turn dosing Back on.
Everything is normal.

 

[Wally.B]

TWO UPDATES: (Was Wrong. OLD "Mag" kit Bad. New Kit Good) and (Got used Frag Tank)

So I got a Aquaforest MAG test Kit. I usually don't like to change test kits, but AF Mag kit is Exactly the Salifert. Even the solutions, amounts, and tables.

But it comes with a Reference Solution, so I tested it with Salifert kit.
The Fresh New Kit is good. Thus the Old Salifert Kit tests were wrong.

LESSSON LEARNED: Don't use test kits down to the Last Drop.

This mean my MAG is just under 1500. In MAG higher isn't dangerous. Lower is. (That is what I understand)

And I found a used Tank on kijii. Bit scratched, but no leaks. Perfect size and glass.
I compared Frag tanks made of acrylic. For what I saved going used, I have something to work with. I was thinking 8" high, but now that I have it on table, 12" depth is ideal.

I have the OverFlow, so won't need glass drilling to start.

And what I didn't realize till I brought it home, is I have two Glass Plates from a Terrarium that I ripped apart (but kept each glass Pane, with Moldings).
They fit perfectly as Lids, to reduce evaporation, etc, and the little gap will ventilate enough to reduce condensation for better viewing.

 

[Wally.B]

FRAG TANK (Parts)

I dug through my parts boxes, and found everything I need for Frag Tank.

Just need to find a Bin for Sump Container underneath. Not sure if 10Gal Tank is enough to handle the drain across such a large Surface Area. (Maybe).

Then get some Black Egg Crate and make shelving.

Hey, I just realized, I can do some additives in the Frag Tank

 

[Wally.B]

One more Acro Dead (STN)

I saw this coming. That acro like the Sunset wasn't doing good from the start.

The other Frags are fine, so part of normal SPS success rate.