My Tank Thread (Take3) ★Total AUTOMATION★ DIY Doser, Sump, AlgaeScrubber, WaterChnges

[Wally.B]

Yes. Someone posted on my old thread when I was going to get a school that at the end I would only have 1 Blue Green left.
It's appears to be true, even though someone else said, "so long as I introduce them all at once, and same size", which I did.

Oh well, it was nice while I had them. Especially when I had 6 and they would school/swim together in the current. Very impressive.

But after having them for a while, I learned that they are "STUPID" fish.
They can't learn new feeding habits. I tried to feed them 3-4 times a day, by adding pellets and variety of foods. If I didn't feed in feeder they would let food float away.
If I added pellets they would ignore (after weeks of trying). Even my Algae Blenny learned to eat meat pellets. They would not. (only flake and frozen, and only specific times of day. Weird)

At least I rescued one, which was so weak he swam into my net.
I put him in QT for a couple of weeks, and then into my SPS tank.
He is doing well, and we named him "George the II" since he got a 2nd life.

 

[Wally.B]

PAR Measurement with (Apogee Quantum Meter)

So Fragbox is now renting a PAR METER, and I rented it, for the FRAG Tank Setup.

I re-confirmed that my Display Tank Lighting is TOO LOW @ Current Fixture Height and MH Wattage Selection.

HERE IS WHERE DID My FIRST Measurement.

And here are the results, varying (WATTAGE from 150,175,250).
And Varying my Fixture at current (14") and a test at (12")

So for a 250-300 PAR Range (ideal) I need to work on SLOWLY increasing Lighting.

 

[Wally.B]

KONG FRAG RACK (Update)

So the Blue Gomez was bleaching, VERY SLOWLY from Bottom up.
I tried to save it, moving it to back on Kong Rack, where other are doing well.
It bleached completely.

However the many others are doing well. My Loss ratio is Way Better than in the past.

Hey, my Red Dragon is still alive. In past it would be dead by now.


Since I lost my only Blue SPS, I picked up a "Hypnotiq".

I'm watch the Bonzai's at different lighting levels. Possibly too early, but not much of a difference.

*** I NEED TO RAMP UP LIGHTING, after confirming my PARS are about 100 Pars too low **

AND I JUST MEASURED (my DIY LED. It's give me 150 More Pars at 100%), and I'm only running MAX 35.
So I'll be ramp up LED and not touching MH power, or fixture height)

 

[reefmutt]

Yeah.. those par numbers do look a bit low..
I like your plan.

 

[Wally.B]

TEMP QT (For " Coach" ) Powder Brown Tang

I found a few Power Blue Tangs but they were not very healthy looking.

Instead, I found a Healthy, and "Pellet Eating" Power Brown Tang.

He will be more of a Contrast with Blue Green Chromis, over the Powder Blue.

The Frag Tank is All siliconed and Curing, so can't use that for QT.

Table has been temporarily converted to a QT Tang using 10 Gallon.
Same sump and Skimmer as for Frag Tank.

Wife and Kids like the Powder Brown. He certainly has more potential for "Brains" and "Personality" then the Chromis.

Kids named him "Coach", since they hope he get's the Chromis a bit more disciplined and stop killing one another.

 

[Wally.B]

I'm Pretty Proud (My Home Grown Leather) has a AWESOME HOME (At Canada Corals)

So, this is not about my SPS tank, but about the first Photo in this Thread.

That Photo is of my Kitchen Mixed/LPS tank is Just after "I removed the" Finger Leather that was getting way to big for my 90 Gallon Tank (Shading a lot of Good Real Estate).

I sold the Leather to Canada Corals. They were either going to chop it up for Frag Sales, or possibly keep it for their Store Front Display Tank.

Here is the Leather back in 2014.

This is 2016 just before I removed it.

Just before packing and taking to Store.

I dropped by the Store today, and they finally put it into the DT (It's the CENTER PIECE)

Pretty Cool!!

 

[Wally.B]

Frag Tank (PASSES) 2nd Silicone Water Seal Test.[/

Yes, I make a mistake the first time. I missed a spot of silcone in the crease and there was a slow leak.
This time is passes the Dry Paper Towel test.

Not terribly important since there will be no pressure most of the time, but if I ever want to clean out the Baffle box, the seal does need to hold.

I also tried something NEW. I taped a industrial Black Garbage bag, cut to shape on the Bottom of the TANK, so Bottom and Black Egg Crate will be all black.

I figure this will allow Frag Colors to stand out more.

 

[Wally.B]

Baffle Box (Flow Test) Passes [Marginally]

Test with a Maxi-Jet is Borderline for Spill over, on 2nd Chamber.

May need to lower the 2nd Baffle, or cut out a notch.

First Chamber is fine, and can handle much more flow.

But was is also good, is the Last Chamber has a nice circular swirl (For good mixing, and no dead flow spots)

 

[Wally.B]

FRAG TANK (Last TAP Water Test)....Next is Frag RACK

Installed the Jabao CP-24, and tested Circulation.

The Triangular-Baffle-Box is nice for Flow Compression.

(Wish I kept my Kids' Floating Yellow Ducks) to have some fun.

However, LATER, I will be moving the Power Blue Tang into here. He should like it better than the 10 Gallon QT.

 

[Wally.B]

FRAG Tank (Glass Cover)

The Cover (Made from Someone's Garbaged Terrarium, ripped apart) will have to go on TeePee/Tent Style.

It has to be this way with the Raised Filter Box in Middle.
Things will change when Overflow Box is added.

Ventilation will prevent fog up/Condensation.

Not sure I'll ever used the Covers but might be good for QT of a Wrasse, since I lost two from Jumping.

 

[reefmutt]

Cool baffle box instal.
Was just thinking.. once you light up the tank, algae will be hard to clean out of that area..

 

[Wally.B]

Cool baffle box instal.
Was just thinking.. once you light up the tank, algae will be hard to clean out of that area..

Yes, Strong Lighting will Generate Algae.
Happened last time a played with an open Frag Tank.

This thin Black Cover (Light Proof) will go on last

Removable, so I can take it off to see inside.

 

[reefmutt]

Lol. This is why I didn't offer solutions..
Figured you already had one.

 

[Wally.B]

Baffle Box (Flood Gates)

So I have no idea when I add the sump and real return pump, if the baffle box will flood over.

Things are already borderline with the Maxi-Jet 400 testing.
I could have made the box wider (too late now).

So I'm thinking of adding some (fine-tuning) adjustable floodgates (below water line).

Basically a ROUND Hole, with a BLACK or CLEAR Slider Plate on the inside of the box. Black cover will also have a matching hole.

Not Sure if I need one in Last Section. (I'll do One in 2nd Section and test, by adding flow with the Garden Hose)

Another option would be to make Black Cover Higher, but it will be removable, so not Ideal for holding back water.

Better figure things out now, before I add Salt Water.

 

[Wally.B]

Lol. This is why I didn't offer solutions..
Figured you already had one.

I think of some things after staring or sleeping on it.

BUT Always keep your thoughts coming, on anything. It Helps.

I am getting a bit worried about the QT (with the Brown Tang).
I don't have Nitrite or Ammonia test kits.

I did use water from Water Change (with a bit of fresh water) for the Total 15 Gallons.

I am adding Zeo Bak, but I don't have any Live Rock or Bio-Balls in the system.

He is a good eater, so polluting the system.

How badly with things cycle? Dangerous to the TANG?

I will be away at Cottage next week for a week. Neighbour will be feeding fish (lightly, every other day).
Will do a 2.5 Gallon Water change before I leave (with DT Water Change Water)

 

[reefmutt]

Why not just put a valve on the output of the pump.. you don't need significant flow through that area..

 

[reefmutt]

I think of some things after staring or sleeping on it.

BUT Always keep your thoughts coming, on anything. It Helps.

I am getting a bit worried about the QT (with the Brown Tang).
I don't have Nitrite or Ammonia test kits.

I did use water from Water Change (with a bit of fresh water) for the Total 15 Gallons.

How badly with things cycle? Dangerous to TANG?

I am adding Zeo Bak, but I don't have any Live Rock or Bio-Balls.

Id get a couple pieces of well cured live rock in here..or matrix or such media.. and some flow..

 

[Wally.B]

Id get a couple pieces of well cured live rock in here..or matrix or such media.. and some flow..

I don't have any Spare Live Rock from SPS tank.

Don't want to bring in any Rock from LPS tank (Have nice piece in sump, but could have Some Colonial Hydroids, so don't want to contaminate anything).

-> I do have a bunch of Active/aged (Marine Pure Ceramic Bio-Balls) in SPS tank Sump.
-> I could siphon off some Live Sand from SPS tank.
-> I also have the crushed Dead SPS Coral pieces I threw into SPS Tank WC Refuge

->How about take out an OLD BAG of Chemipure that is sitting in SPS Tank Sump. I have 3 in there that I change every 6 months.
-> Filter Floss in SPS tank Sump also needs to be changed.

They all have Active Bio in them.

What is best? (A bit of each?)

 

[Wally.B]

Why not just put a valve on the output of the pump.. you don't need significant flow through that area..

I agree, and there is a Ball Valve on Return pump.

I don't like to back pressure on Return Pumps since they can get noisy, so I could put a U-Pipe with The Ball Valve that diverts some water back into Sump right away, and not into Frag Tank.

However if I limit the return pump flow it reduces my overall Frag Tank Overflow Box surface skim. (Maybe doesn't matter).

[[ I am thinking down the road, should I ever decide to add Fish to Frag Tank]]

BUT I DON'T Really Want to "DO HOLES" in the "Baffle Box", it does look nice, and that may ruin the look.

Wish I could try the return pump, but it used for QT.

Could borrow it, and run in bucket.

 

[reefmutt]

I'd say the marine pure balls would be ideal for the qt.
As for surface skim, I wouldn't worry too much about that..