My tips for good chaeto growth

Did you do these treatments individually or in combination together?

If you had limiting PO4, adding more Fe and NO3 obviously are not going to help one bit.

If you had limiting Fe, adding more NO3/PO4 will not help either.

Light should be fine, optimal at 12 hours.
There is nothing gained by increasing it.

Plants and algae use dark cycles to do other processes, they do poorer when exposed to 24/7 lighting etc.

I'd suggest raising the NO3/Fe and just a little on PO4.
PO4 should be your "throttle".

You are also not really looking for a stable residual really, just a pulse of PO4 every 2-3 days etc(2x a week is plenty).

As far as nutrient ratios, this a poor notion, the tank is not a limiting system such as an oceanic pelagic gyre.

It is only under limiting levels will ratios apply.
Ratios are useful for dosing estimates, that's about it.

As long as you are at a NON limiting level for NO3, say 5 ppm vs 10 ppm, it does not matter. If the PO4 (inorganic) is at 0.1 or at 0.2ppm,
, in both cases you can have good growth and not too much issue in a macro tank. But the ratios are quite different.

Rather than ratios, it is far wiser to think it terms of limiting critical values. This is what aquatic researchers use for studying larger macrophytes, ratio are considered in natural system where inputs are limited and controlled by other forces(upwelling, nutrient runoff, stratification etc).

Our systems bob all over by comparision.

Well growing macros are great exporter, thus the focus should be on these plants/algae, not so much the nutrient water column parameters, which sometimes, and very often do not correlate well with growth.

There are testing issues for aquarists and that makes it far far worse.

How many of you calibrate your test kits?
Not many I'd suspect.
How many test several times a day?
Not many I'd suspect.
If you have organic matter, fish waste etc, it often is consumed and removed before you can test it.

That's just 3 testing issues that send many off the deep end and assume and make the wrong conclusions.

A test datum point, and a test kit is a dangerous thing if you your assumptions about it are all wrong.

Researchers calibrate test methods for a good reason, they then know the method is reading the correct measurements from the samples.

You need to make standard reference solutions and claibrate the test kit, you will fine that PO4 and NO3 test kits happen to be thwe worst in terms of accuracy.

Yet many base their water changes, skimmers, addition of PO4 removers etc etc problems etc, solely on an uncalibrated test reading.

If you use a test kit, use it right.
Otherwise you are just guessing and hoping it's right.
And........"Belief" is a poor standard to use in this hobby.

Regards,
Tom Barr
 
My question is how is it that there seem to be so many people here that limit their nutrients because of their coral and still have huge chaeto growth?

Meanwhile, my chaeto is nice and healthy, but not really growing. It is a dark green ball that tumbles nicely. It shows no dead spots, no algae accumulation, and no pieces are coming off.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11841923#post11841923 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Mavrk
My question is how is it that there seem to be so many people here that limit their nutrients because of their coral and still have huge chaeto growth?

Meanwhile, my chaeto is nice and healthy, but not really growing. It is a dark green ball that tumbles nicely. It shows no dead spots, no algae accumulation, and no pieces are coming off.


that maybe a question never answered.

I have played with chaeto for several years and have read every article I could find on Fe dosing. the most useful articles were those of RHF. Randy, in his articles he leans toward dosing Kent's EDTA Fe but also said that Seachem's Fe works too.

Correct me if I'm wrong but what I got out of his text was that the EDTA Fe needs a UV source to break the chelated ions to become available to the organisms that use it. so the EDTA Fe was more of a time release type additive. If you run metal halide or UV light that would help when using EDTA Fe.

(yes some organisms use very complex method's for the uptake of Fe and may be able to do it on their own) ((that is really cool)) but not useful in this post.

Seachem's Fe in not chelated so it is immediately available for use.
I have only used Seachem's Fe in the tanks that I take care of and stop dosing Fe when the chaeto stops growing so I don't over dose the system.

this also could be why your chaeto is having problems or might not at all.

For some unknown reason you might need more light. I know this thread was started to say you don't need that much light to grow chaeto but there are too many variables. A+B dose not always = C

who knows until you try it?

If your happy with your tank don't worry about it be happy with your main display. that micro in your tank might seem a little unsightly but is in the realism of the reef (as long as it is not taking over).

If you find yourself looking at your sump more than your tank you might be in (algae lovers denial ) and might want to think about setting up a different kind of tank like many of us who browse this forum.
I got to be so in love with macro algae that I set up a tank to play with growing algae while I searched for sea grass which is what i wanted to grow in the first place.

DAMN BEING LANDLOCKED!!!!!
 
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I also remember reading to use chelated iron (from Randy). So I am using Kent Super Chelated Iron. I do not have metal halides so maybe that is an issue. I do have T5s with individual reflectors (but not over the chaeto). So perhaps the seachem would make a difference.

The truth is that it really is just a curiosity that I am trying to fill more than anything else. Since my chaeto is not dying I am fine with it growing ultra slow. I have almost no green microalgae growing in my DT. The little I do have is mostly eaten by my CUC. So it really makes sense that my chaeto is not growing fast.

It would be nice to have a larger ball of chaeto for my pods to hang out in, but they have pleanty of places to hide in the LR that I keep in my sump.
 
If you want pods to grow have you ever thought of feeding phytoplankton to your system? that is what I use to end the cycle on a new tank. helps establish pod populations before adding fish. I have had very good luck doing so.
 
so i am setting up a new fuge on my 24ap nano i using a 10 gallon sank and feeding it with a maxi 900 and it will gravity feed back into the tank i only have another 6 inches for a light so after reading through all of this info i though i would go wiht just a 20 inch strip light, does that sound about right.

in the past i have run 20 gallon refug wiht 2 lights of america lighting fixtures.
thanks for any input

shawn m
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11844190#post11844190 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by worlds under
If you want pods to grow have you ever thought of feeding phytoplankton to your system? that is what I use to end the cycle on a new tank. helps establish pod populations before adding fish. I have had very good luck doing so.

Oh, I have a lot of pods. And I have recently started feeding phytoplankton. I just like to have places for them to hang out.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11846214#post11846214 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by sm fragman
so i am setting up a new fuge on my 24ap nano i using a 10 gallon sank and feeding it with a maxi 900 and it will gravity feed back into the tank i only have another 6 inches for a light so after reading through all of this info i though i would go wiht just a 20 inch strip light, does that sound about right.

in the past i have run 20 gallon refug wiht 2 lights of america lighting fixtures.
thanks for any input

shawn m

this forum is slower than others be patient or you might want to start your own thread.
but it sounds good to me.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11846238#post11846238 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Mavrk
Oh, I have a lot of pods. And I have recently started feeding phytoplankton. I just like to have places for them to hang out.

sounds like you have a great system.

Be patient, and try different things and sooner or latter you will have success with the chaeto.
 
Well, I have given up on my chaeto for now. I finally decided to get rid of it before it starts to die off. I don't think it will grow with my current parameters.

I have a DSB that I think has really started working, so I have 0 nitrates (Salifert and API). I got some PHOSar media for phosphate removal that is working great. So, in essence there is nothing for it to live on besides light and iron. I have LR in my fuge for the pods to live in, so I guess I don't need the chaeto for now. I may try again in the future, but for now I am trashing the ball of chaeto.

Sorry I could not be of more help in determining how to grow chaeto, but my system is setup to remove almost all the things it lives on.
 
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