N/P reducing pellets (solid vodka dosing)
- Thread starter tntneon
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tntneon
SPSahollic
yeah think so too , nanook
On ower local forum i have contacted the guy from reefintresets ,
with the question if it`s compatible with other dosages (vodka , amino,..) still waiting for a reply.
there like 3 to 4 other guys who are testing it.
one of the test dummy`s
couldn`t get his no3 under 10 ppm after 2 weeks his no3 is stable at 2 ppm w/o the use of other helps .
can`t wait to test them ...
greetingzz tntneon
On ower local forum i have contacted the guy from reefintresets ,
with the question if it`s compatible with other dosages (vodka , amino,..) still waiting for a reply.
there like 3 to 4 other guys who are testing it.
one of the test dummy`s
couldn`t get his no3 under 10 ppm after 2 weeks his no3 is stable at 2 ppm w/o the use of other helps .can`t wait to test them ...
greetingzz tntneon
jptenklooster
New member
Hello everybody,
I'm the person that developed the biopellets and to answer some questions:
-The pellets don't dissolve in water in the absence of bacteria
-they do not stimulate bacterial or algae growth in your tank and specially for the algae growth, this appears to be reduced and similar observations have been done for cyano bacteria when compaired to using soluble carbon sources such as wodka or sugar. big advantage is no more bacteria growth on your corals and unlimited carbon source to reduce nitrate and phosphate. My own tank consists of gorgonia combined with lps and sps corals. this requires feedings of 10x a day (with reefpearls ;-)) and I can keep nitrate between 0-5ppm and phosphate around 0-0.03 without the addition of wodka and phosphatekiller. this was for not possible before I started to use the biopellets.
-they are heavier than water and can be used in fluidized filter systems. we recommend this actually because this way you will always have high water flow and thus more aerobic conditions for your bacteria, which in principle is much safer than anaerobic conditions. On this point we have to say that some anaerobic bacteria will excist on the pellets, but this layer is so thin that is not harmfull and has a rather positive effect on your pH (aerobic-> H+; anaerobic -> OH-)
- the pellets are not on the market yet and will be released soon in the netherlands and belgium and other countries will hopefully soon folow. until that time you can contact me for questions at info@reefinterests.nl (I hope this allowed by admin, otherwise I apologize and please remove just this last sentence then).
-in contrast to what was mentioned, the pellets do not need to be replaced after 6 months. they are consumed by the bacteria and will slowly disappear, which means that you have to add extra pellets every 6-12 months. In one of our test conditions it took 3 years to completely digest the pellets. this is also the reason that you have to use at least 1 or 2 liters of these pellets (around 120 euro's) but it will last at least 1 year.
Wodka can still be combined with the pellets and will rapidly be consumed by the bacteria which live on the pellets, however, it is not necessary to do so, but when you need to finish the bottle of wodka, this is one way of doing it ;-)
Don't hesitate to ask any questions when things are not clear.
ciao,
jean paul
I'm the person that developed the biopellets and to answer some questions:
-The pellets don't dissolve in water in the absence of bacteria
-they do not stimulate bacterial or algae growth in your tank and specially for the algae growth, this appears to be reduced and similar observations have been done for cyano bacteria when compaired to using soluble carbon sources such as wodka or sugar. big advantage is no more bacteria growth on your corals and unlimited carbon source to reduce nitrate and phosphate. My own tank consists of gorgonia combined with lps and sps corals. this requires feedings of 10x a day (with reefpearls ;-)) and I can keep nitrate between 0-5ppm and phosphate around 0-0.03 without the addition of wodka and phosphatekiller. this was for not possible before I started to use the biopellets.
-they are heavier than water and can be used in fluidized filter systems. we recommend this actually because this way you will always have high water flow and thus more aerobic conditions for your bacteria, which in principle is much safer than anaerobic conditions. On this point we have to say that some anaerobic bacteria will excist on the pellets, but this layer is so thin that is not harmfull and has a rather positive effect on your pH (aerobic-> H+; anaerobic -> OH-)
- the pellets are not on the market yet and will be released soon in the netherlands and belgium and other countries will hopefully soon folow. until that time you can contact me for questions at info@reefinterests.nl (I hope this allowed by admin, otherwise I apologize and please remove just this last sentence then).
-in contrast to what was mentioned, the pellets do not need to be replaced after 6 months. they are consumed by the bacteria and will slowly disappear, which means that you have to add extra pellets every 6-12 months. In one of our test conditions it took 3 years to completely digest the pellets. this is also the reason that you have to use at least 1 or 2 liters of these pellets (around 120 euro's) but it will last at least 1 year.
Wodka can still be combined with the pellets and will rapidly be consumed by the bacteria which live on the pellets, however, it is not necessary to do so, but when you need to finish the bottle of wodka, this is one way of doing it ;-)
Don't hesitate to ask any questions when things are not clear.
ciao,
jean paul
tntneon
SPSahollic
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15589106#post15589106 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by tatuvaaj
Pictures of the filter and amount of bacteria produced. Excellent food for filter feeders
Hi Tatuvaay
,Could you tell us where the placement of the canisterfilter is located in the sump ?
Does it pull it`s water in the displaydrain zone or in the return section , and where did you make the outlet of canister drain( return ,refugium ,displaydrain..)?
I already gonna make some adjustments to my sump that i can place the pellets right in
greetingzz tntneon
It just sits on the bottom of the sump. I have a small powerhead pumping water into it. The water exits back to sump from the top (no lid). I have very high flow inside the sump so it doesn't make any difference where I place equipment
I initially used a 550 l/h pump but "upgraded" to a 1000 l/h powerhead. This pump is just powerful enough to cause slight simmering inside.
tntneon
SPSahollic
thx tatuvaaj ,
I don`t have any space left in my sump , so i think i`m gonna use an normal cannister filter (with the lit on) and place it outside of my sump.
I would place the pellets in the middle section , with some porcelin pipes in the bottom to even the flow (preventing channeling).
the suction side i will hang in the display drain zone and the pressure side in the return to display so that lose bacteria could make it to my corals as food
@Kentrob :
-It`s in the testing fase , but the testers where already positif about it , combining the advantages of carbon dosing w/o the daily dosing .
only after half a year you have to add some new ones in for ones who are digested by the bacteria.
-will keep you guys informed about my findings , yesterday i orderd mine
greetingzz tntneon
I don`t have any space left in my sump , so i think i`m gonna use an normal cannister filter (with the lit on) and place it outside of my sump.
I would place the pellets in the middle section , with some porcelin pipes in the bottom to even the flow (preventing channeling).
the suction side i will hang in the display drain zone and the pressure side in the return to display so that lose bacteria could make it to my corals as food
@Kentrob :
-It`s in the testing fase , but the testers where already positif about it , combining the advantages of carbon dosing w/o the daily dosing .
only after half a year you have to add some new ones in for ones who are digested by the bacteria.
-will keep you guys informed about my findings , yesterday i orderd mine
greetingzz tntneon
tntneon,
You could also put BioPellets in a media bag and place it in the sump. I might try that myself, I like to simplify the system as much as I can (but not too much
)
Sounds goodI don`t have any space left in my sump , so i think i`m gonna use an normal cannister filter (with the lit on) and place it outside of my sump.
I would place the pellets in the middle section , with some porcelin pipes in the bottom to even the flow (preventing channeling).
the suction side i will hang in the display drain zone and the pressure side in the return to display so that lose bacteria could make it to my corals as food
You could also put BioPellets in a media bag and place it in the sump. I might try that myself, I like to simplify the system as much as I can (but not too much
)
tntneon
SPSahollic
-That`s probably the easiest way , and if you put the mediabag directly under the drain pipe you also have enough oxiginated water flowing across the pellets i think.
Or in an overflowbox you will have simular conditions i think so.
I also like the idea to keep it simple ,
will try first with media bag if the result is good , then i`ll keep it that way.
greetingzz tntneon
Or in an overflowbox you will have simular conditions i think so.
I also like the idea to keep it simple
, will try first with media bag if the result is good , then i`ll keep it that way.
greetingzz tntneon
Sounds like an interesting idea. Do they mention how to properly setup the canister and the ideal flow rate to get the best results? I thought of many problems with this type of approach and wasn't sure if they demonstrate continual and constant controlled levels of N/P. The best, I speculate, would be a peak reduction and gradual (possibly significant) decline over time in their ability to control N/P.
Another issue would be once bacterial start to cover the surface it may work very similar to Zeoliths and not as described. It'll be interesting to see some data on it.
Another issue would be once bacterial start to cover the surface it may work very similar to Zeoliths and not as described. It'll be interesting to see some data on it.
I think the recommended setup is a fluidized bed reactor.
As the media is used up by the bacteria the available surface area will decline. For this reason you should add more pellets every 6-12 months (or as needed).
I don't see how this media could be compared to zeoliths which function only as a inorganic surface for bacteria to grow "“ there are a many porous filter media that does that (and many would say better than zeoliths
). The BioPellets are more like a solid bacteria food. If you use flow rate fast enough to constantly export some bacterial biomass, I don't see how the performance would drop noticeably over time.Tatu
Good work!
How would I know how much media to use , given the bioload in different tanks. Can you over dose on these pellets. If you have low nutrients but want to bring them down just a bit more, but at the same time you don't want to starve the system. Or should I say can you over dose.
Thanks
Kevin
Good work!
How would I know how much media to use , given the bioload in different tanks. Can you over dose on these pellets. If you have low nutrients but want to bring them down just a bit more, but at the same time you don't want to starve the system. Or should I say can you over dose.
Thanks
Kevin
Hi Kevin!
I've only used the pellets two weeks so I'm no expert I'm sure the inventor (jptenklooster) will give you the right answers. I personally don't believe you can have "too low" concentration of inorganic nutrients in an aquarium.
I can't even really evaluate the performance of BioPellets yet because I still don't have a working skimmer :mad2:
I've only used the pellets two weeks so I'm no expert
I'm sure the inventor (jptenklooster) will give you the right answers. I personally don't believe you can have "too low" concentration of inorganic nutrients in an aquarium. I can't even really evaluate the performance of BioPellets yet because I still don't have a working skimmer :mad2:
tntneon
SPSahollic
- The best set-up , if you have the space would be an fluidizing reaktor.
due that i got no more space in my sump,
I`m gonna put a media bag in the section where my drainpipes from display enters a little under / overflow box.
I think that the water there is turbid and oxigenated enough , that it won`t form H2S gas (see reefintrests).
If i then stir the bag weekly around so that created biomass can exit the bag and channeling is prevented it would work i think...
reefintrests :
"Important! When the water flow in the pellet filter is too low, this may result in a large population of anaerobic bacteria, with the possible danger of H2S production. Always maintain high water flow through the filter in order to get optimal results."
greetingzz tntneon
I really want to put about 500 ml of this into one of my BRS cartridges and remove the top sponge. Then adjust the flow to where it bounces really good, but doesn't blow-out. Maybe even hook the outlet of it directly into my display tank return line...
I have no sand or rock in my tank, so I keep a 9" square, 4" think porous silica block in my sump. I'd like to remove the block to free up some sump space. I think this media would be really high efficiency for bacterial processing of organics in general, and ammonia in particular.
Having the bacteria filter hanging up above my sump in the BRS reactor would really free up the space. Outputting the fluidized bed directly into the tank might provide some bacteria to the corals to eat, and the rest should hopefully come back down the drain to my skimmer.
I may set this up as a prototype with some course aragonite, until the Biopellets become available over here in the US.
I have no sand or rock in my tank, so I keep a 9" square, 4" think porous silica block in my sump. I'd like to remove the block to free up some sump space. I think this media would be really high efficiency for bacterial processing of organics in general, and ammonia in particular.
Having the bacteria filter hanging up above my sump in the BRS reactor would really free up the space. Outputting the fluidized bed directly into the tank might provide some bacteria to the corals to eat, and the rest should hopefully come back down the drain to my skimmer.
I may set this up as a prototype with some course aragonite, until the Biopellets become available over here in the US.
tntneon
SPSahollic
hi kaskiles ,
-I don`t know what a brs cartridge is , but i do follow your idea of having a fluidizing area in your display returnzone .
I think it`s a cool idea , this i would like to do in my next sump .
Only i don`t know how much they would swirl and maybe overflow to the next zone , we have to restrict them somehow.
-why do you have an porous silica block in your sump ?
some sort of filtration i didn`t heared about ??
greetingzz tntneon
-I don`t know what a brs cartridge is , but i do follow your idea of having a fluidizing area in your display returnzone .
I think it`s a cool idea , this i would like to do in my next sump .
Only i don`t know how much they would swirl and maybe overflow to the next zone , we have to restrict them somehow.
-why do you have an porous silica block in your sump ?
some sort of filtration i didn`t heared about ??
greetingzz tntneon
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15631597#post15631597 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by tntneon
-why do you have an porous silica block in your sump ?
some sort of filtration i didn`t heared about ??
It is this:
http://www.marinedepot.com/ReefresH...ter_Media-ReefresH2O-NY01008-FIFMMECF-vi.html
and it's really not much different than placing some live rock in your sump, except it's made out of silica based material instead of calcium carbonate (and may be more porous).
The block is used passively, and might house some anaerobic bacteria for denitrification. But I think I'd get more organic consumption/conversion on the non-passive use of the Biopellets in an up-flow reactor. I also am not convinced I'm getting any dentrification, I might just be skimming all my N out before it can be converted to nitrate (I can never measure any on LaMotte)...
tntneon
SPSahollic
- oke thx ,
I didn`t knew that was out there , something learned again
The fact that they don`t dissolve and that the bacteria have to eat it from the pellets is a big advantage , i think.
Having no bacteria slime in display , cyano won`t up take the carbon in the display and hopefully will not thrive on the given carbon source.
When i have the pelletes i `ll will post changes in parameters or others.
Now i have stopped dosing vodka for over an month .
I stopped because i went on a holiday , an when i came back my corals where looking very fine , zoas even better.
Also there was some cyano covering my sand i was scarred that the vodka would boost the cyano`s.
When i was dosing vodka my no3 was 0.2 ppm and my po4 was 0 ,
Now a month after i stopped vodka no3 is 2 ppm and po4 still 0 ,
i still have a few GHA spots (during vodka period started and now declining???)
and a little cyano on the sand (not expanding).
Then one other thing , after stopping vodka there are again a lot more pods in my refugium then with the carbon.
These are the key points that i will monitor when i have the pellets in my sump.
greetingzz tntneon
I didn`t knew that was out there , something learned again
The fact that they don`t dissolve and that the bacteria have to eat it from the pellets is a big advantage , i think.
Having no bacteria slime in display , cyano won`t up take the carbon in the display and hopefully will not thrive on the given carbon source.
When i have the pelletes i `ll will post changes in parameters or others.
Now i have stopped dosing vodka for over an month .
I stopped because i went on a holiday , an when i came back my corals where looking very fine , zoas even better.
Also there was some cyano covering my sand i was scarred that the vodka would boost the cyano`s.
When i was dosing vodka my no3 was 0.2 ppm and my po4 was 0 ,
Now a month after i stopped vodka no3 is 2 ppm and po4 still 0 ,
i still have a few GHA spots (during vodka period started and now declining???)
and a little cyano on the sand (not expanding).
Then one other thing , after stopping vodka there are again a lot more pods in my refugium then with the carbon.
These are the key points that i will monitor when i have the pellets in my sump.
greetingzz tntneon
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