HighlandReefer
Team RC
1.66 liters/100gallons. I was inclined to believe it would take quite a bit of it to reduce higher nitrate situations. Thanks for the post Tatu. 
N/P reducing pellets (solid vodka dosing)
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HighlandReefer
Team RC
It appears at least one hobbyist is not happy with the results, perhaps increasing the amount used will help. In cases where the nitrates are quite high, perhaps greatly increased amounts would bring the levels down and then the amounts used could be decreased.
rsuplido
Member
I continue to use open canister setup with relatively slow water velocity. This setup seems to work better than fluidizing filter in my case. My "reactor" is simply an old 10 liter GAC bucket:
How does that work? How do you stir up the pellets? Do you think the reason you are needing more pellets is because you are not agitating them that much?
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reading his website, it seems he has more then enough pellets and that since they are not producing a bacteria film. he actually thinks that is how you know you have reached the right amount of pellets.
I just manually stir them every now and then.
I've tried fluidizing setup before but for some reason it didn't work that well for me. It is likely that you'll get higher denitrification rate with a setup like mine.
In future I will see if it is enough to remove most of the bacterial biomass from the filter every two weeks (as I perform water change) and not to stir the media daily.
alessandro
New member
it is reasonable since you keep a more anaerobic enviroment.
tntneon
SPSahollic
-Hi tatuvaaj
,-Nice to hear you again
-Here`s my dillema for the moment , i have an lit refugium and my chaeto isn`t growing anymore and is becoming brittle (breaks easely apart) , when removing you don`t have as many pods i think.
On the other hand the Chaeto is releasing nutrients maybe back into the system as the chaeto is so brittle.
what should i do ?
greetingzz tntneon
Well, IMO and IME the "pod" production of lit refugium is not really that significant advantage in a well fed system. For me nutrient immobilization and CO2 uptake by algae are much more important benefits. Obviously if algae is not growing very well neither of those are happening
I would remove the refugium and not worry about pods. You could also see if dosing iron/manganese/other trace elements helps the algae to grow.
I would remove the refugium and not worry about pods. You could also see if dosing iron/manganese/other trace elements helps the algae to grow.
HighlandReefer
Team RC
IMHO, if this product works, even when larger amounts are needed to deal with the common bio-loads, price adjustments on the part of the manufacturer may be needed to properly market it. Naturally the manufacturer will have to somehow overcome the initial start-up costs. After that, I would think the consumer cost would come down enough to make the price more competitive to handle the nitrate reduction needs of most hobbyists. The trick will be overcoming the start-up costs and stay afloat.
HighlandReefer
Team RC
If in fact it takes more of this product to meet the demands for most hobbyists and price adjustments are not implemented, I fear this product will be looked upon as an inferior product by many hobbyists.
you dont have to replace the pellets every 6 months.. probably just add to them..
The manufacturer's recommendation is 0.5 - 1 liters per 500 liters. You do not replace the pellets every 6 months, only add some to replace pellets bacteria have consumed.
According to my calculations it is cheaper than running refugium. The startup costs are about the same but the electricity and T5 replacement costs are much higher than using BioPellets.
Nevertheless, I wouldn't mind price drop. Let's hope there will be competing products soon
According to my calculations it is cheaper than running refugium. The startup costs are about the same but the electricity and T5 replacement costs are much higher than using BioPellets.
Nevertheless, I wouldn't mind price drop. Let's hope there will be competing products soon
HighlandReefer
Team RC
Tatu,
Did you calculate the costs for a rate of 0.5 - 1 liters per 500 liters or was that for 1.66 liters/100gallons (this is a little more than double the cost for 6 months)?
Did you calculate the costs for a rate of 0.5 - 1 liters per 500 liters or was that for 1.66 liters/100gallons (this is a little more than double the cost for 6 months)?
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HighlandReefer
Team RC
Thanks.
EDIT: I assume the T5 & NPB costs for you are somewhat relative to the costs we pay for each here in the states?
EDIT: I assume the T5 & NPB costs for you are somewhat relative to the costs we pay for each here in the states?
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It has been a long time since my previous "report" so here goes
I updated the amount of NPBs to 5 liters (!) and results have been excellent. Nitrates are dropping close to zero (first time since starting this tank) and water is crystal clear. Without NPBs or DOC dosing nitrate raises quickly to 25+ ppm.
The amount of nuisance algae is also clearly dropping, despite iron dosing. I still use GFO but the amount needed has decreased significantly (from 2000 to less than 500 ml). It also seems that NBPs are able to reduce CDOM as the frequency I need to replace GAC is reduced.
I continue to use open canister setup with relatively slow water velocity. This setup seems to work better than fluidizing filter in my case. My "reactor" is simply an old 10 liter GAC bucket:
Overall I'm very happy with NP-Biopellets and will continue to use them. Initially I thought they might be bit too expensive but after making some calculations it became clear that they are a lot cheaper than running a refugium.
could you show/tell us how you are using that GAC bucket? is it have holse drilled in it for flow through ? or is it pump driven?
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