Nano ATO question.

dublo8

New member
Just a curiosity question (and a gripe), but I own several tunze ATOs. I have 2 nanos and the 3155. If I hooked the nano up like normal and then added a second float switch from my spare, flipped it upside down and switch the wires around, would it act as a overfill failsafe? I'm assuming it would but I'm curious about the circuitry within the small outboard box and if it would function in this regard in case the first switch gets stuck down. Both my nanos have overfilled several times. One stops on its own but the other does not and it will eventually restart and start pumping again. (yes I know about the adjustable pot on the board) I have adjusted it several times but to no avail. The float continuously gets stuck on both units or the units continue to fill without ever stopping itself. You could imagine the problems this would cause in a 10g AIO with a 5g reservoir. I already had some water damage to some new cabinets due this. The 3155 is literally flawless (has been for years) and I have never had an issue but these nanos are super poor in design and are filled with flaws. Please let me know if anybody has input to resolve the issue.

On a serious note, I would be up for a trade, my 2 nanos for another 3155 so I don't have to deal with this any longer. My wife and my cabinets can't take this much longer.


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The float is likely getting stuck because the glass is thin and float switches are magnetic switches, the black ring in the bobber is a magnet and this magnet moves a switch in the post. If the glass is less than 3/16", the magnets are misaligned, or another magnet is nearby it will affect the movement of the float. A shim between the outside glass and magnet will solve the problem if the magnets are lined up and are the ones included and no other magnet is nearby. I don't see a way the redundant unit will work well. The one that resets itself should be sent in to be checked, this can be due to a pump or controller problem.
 
I thought the same thing with the magnet so I used one of the rubber shims from a spare MP10. Even moving the jumper over they don't shut off like are supposed to. I read through some other posts and I think mine are defective. I honestly think these aren't up to normal tunze standards. Everything I own from them is flawless except for these.


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Please send them in, we had 2 batches of software flaws, one mid 2016, one late 2016, the mid 2016 ones were almost all intercepted, but we know some did slip through, it was a new circuit board that inadvertently got the old software. The second issue was a keying error that caused the pump to be shut down prematurely, usually these won't fill at all.
 
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