NanoGurl's 75g Reef Thread
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
- Status
Here is my thought on your lighting situation:
(...that's supposed to represent two stacks with a valley in between and a good bit of space on the sides and front and back... and as I look at it, I have sketched the 150w's a bit too close to the front but it's a sense of what I would consider...)
24" is not very deep from front to back but it does allow a bit of creativity. As Marc pointed out, 250w is a bit better for the depth. But, by "scooching" the 150w's towards the front on the ends, a sense of greater depth could be created, allowing a lot of versatility when it comes to selecting inhabitants.
After a lot of considering, I have elected to make my own canopy with mirrored aluminum, I think (sense I haven't purchased anything yet, that decision may get re-visited). The Lumen-Max and Lumenarc III's are incredible but just too big for me to use well, especially as my tanks will be lower than many would choose; a "top-heavy" canopy just won't work. It's just my opinion, but squeezing out that last extra 5% of light may not be necessary given the wide variety of choices, in terms of inhabitants (many of which you like and might not thrive under more intense lighting), is sometimes not worth it, so, the RO's will do you fine; you can always upgrade both the lights and canopies later.
Another thought about moving the end lights towards the front of the tank is that it would allow the back to remain clearer of obstructions; eg, not stacking the reef right against the back glass. This decision would allow Ocean to swim all the way around the reef, increase the sense of depth and improve water flow dramatically all at once.
One of the big questions, though, is will you like the looks of a tank that has mixed wattages? Many do and many don't but by choosing this route at the start, a good bit of savings can be accrued while still allowing you to get the tank up and running. 250w's for the ends could be an upgrade for down the road and a decision to upgrade reflectors might go with it.
BTW, I am excited to see that you are already doing the research! Grats on the decision to go a bit bigger!
(...that's supposed to represent two stacks with a valley in between and a good bit of space on the sides and front and back... and as I look at it, I have sketched the 150w's a bit too close to the front but it's a sense of what I would consider...)
24" is not very deep from front to back but it does allow a bit of creativity. As Marc pointed out, 250w is a bit better for the depth. But, by "scooching" the 150w's towards the front on the ends, a sense of greater depth could be created, allowing a lot of versatility when it comes to selecting inhabitants.
After a lot of considering, I have elected to make my own canopy with mirrored aluminum, I think (sense I haven't purchased anything yet, that decision may get re-visited). The Lumen-Max and Lumenarc III's are incredible but just too big for me to use well, especially as my tanks will be lower than many would choose; a "top-heavy" canopy just won't work. It's just my opinion, but squeezing out that last extra 5% of light may not be necessary given the wide variety of choices, in terms of inhabitants (many of which you like and might not thrive under more intense lighting), is sometimes not worth it, so, the RO's will do you fine; you can always upgrade both the lights and canopies later.
Another thought about moving the end lights towards the front of the tank is that it would allow the back to remain clearer of obstructions; eg, not stacking the reef right against the back glass. This decision would allow Ocean to swim all the way around the reef, increase the sense of depth and improve water flow dramatically all at once.
One of the big questions, though, is will you like the looks of a tank that has mixed wattages? Many do and many don't but by choosing this route at the start, a good bit of savings can be accrued while still allowing you to get the tank up and running. 250w's for the ends could be an upgrade for down the road and a decision to upgrade reflectors might go with it.
BTW, I am excited to see that you are already doing the research! Grats on the decision to go a bit bigger!
dga
New member
as opinions go, a shorter (in height) tank is more astetically pleasing and of coarse less water column for the light to penetrate. a 24" height is great for cubes if there is sufficient lighting for the selected coral. and theres always what ever pleases your eyes. in your case there is a definite tendency towards making eye catching tanks and good solid design...
invincible569
New member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10340072#post10340072 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by token
Here is my thought on your lighting situation:
(...that's supposed to represent two stacks with a valley in between and a good bit of space on the sides and front and back... and as I look at it, I have sketched the 150w's a bit too close to the front but it's a sense of what I would consider...)
24" is not very deep from front to back but it does allow a bit of creativity. As Marc pointed out, 250w is a bit better for the depth. But, by "scooching" the 150w's towards the front on the ends, a sense of greater depth could be created, allowing a lot of versatility when it comes to selecting inhabitants.
After a lot of considering, I have elected to make my own canopy with mirrored aluminum, I think (sense I haven't purchased anything yet, that decision may get re-visited). The Lumen-Max and Lumenarc III's are incredible but just too big for me to use well, especially as my tanks will be lower than many would choose; a "top-heavy" canopy just won't work. It's just my opinion, but squeezing out that last extra 5% of light may not be necessary given the wide variety of choices, in terms of inhabitants (many of which you like and might not thrive under more intense lighting), is sometimes not worth it, so, the RO's will do you fine; you can always upgrade both the lights and canopies later.
Another thought about moving the end lights towards the front of the tank is that it would allow the back to remain clearer of obstructions; eg, not stacking the reef right against the back glass. This decision would allow Ocean to swim all the way around the reef, increase the sense of depth and improve water flow dramatically all at once.
One of the big questions, though, is will you like the looks of a tank that has mixed wattages? Many do and many don't but by choosing this route at the start, a good bit of savings can be accrued while still allowing you to get the tank up and running. 250w's for the ends could be an upgrade for down the road and a decision to upgrade reflectors might go with it.
BTW, I am excited to see that you are already doing the research! Grats on the decision to go a bit bigger!
The lighting diagram looks very similiar to mine.
Check out my diagram. Same concept, just different hardware.http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=10338441#post10338441
The RO3s *are* good lighting fixtures ... it's just that they're relatively narrow. They'd be great for an 18 inch width tank if you kept the light about a foot off the water (which is what I used them for). You can get them to go wider but you have to raise them higher which would work against you if you're using lower than normal wattages. If you're using 150s, then you'd want to keep the light closer to the water to enhance penetration which means that if you want full width coverage, you'd need a wider reflector.
Or you could do what token is doing which is to use the reflector limitation in an intelligent fashion and to take advantage of the lower light areas to put corals that have lower light requirements (softies, LPS, some zoas).
Spleen
Or you could do what token is doing which is to use the reflector limitation in an intelligent fashion and to take advantage of the lower light areas to put corals that have lower light requirements (softies, LPS, some zoas).
Spleen
NanoGurl
In Memoriam
Thank you! =)
I agree with you that having an open space in the back of the tank and front and middle would be very important. It would help the 8' tank "appear" that much bigger to Ocean swimming. I am def interested in a less rock look to give as much open space as possible, yet still leaving enough places to hide and move through the rockwork. I was really surprised at how much PBT's like to do that.
Yes, I am def planning now long before I/we get a tank of this size. I actually started another thread in the Large Tank forum asking about humidity issues. If anyone wants to read it's located here:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1160936
NanoGurl
In Memoriam
Thanks! I agree overall, the 24" tank does not appeal to me in most sizes. I like the "longer wide" view better. However, I do not like the way a 20l tank looks. And after seeing a 7' long tank at 24", I believe that at 8' a 24" tank will look "longer wide" and give the look that I like. Where as the 18" height would give the 20l look which I hate.
It kinda sucks bc it will be much more expensive to do the 24" height, but I believe worth it for the look. Sigh!
NanoGurl
In Memoriam
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10340618#post10340618 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by invincible569
The lighting diagram looks very similiar to mine.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=10338441#post10338441
Your tank is just WOW! I am going to read through your whole thread!
NanoGurl
In Memoriam
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10341390#post10341390 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by spleen93
The RO3s *are* good lighting fixtures ... it's just that they're relatively narrow. They'd be great for an 18 inch width tank if you kept the light about a foot off the water (which is what I used them for). You can get them to go wider but you have to raise them higher which would work against you if you're using lower than normal wattages. If you're using 150s, then you'd want to keep the light closer to the water to enhance penetration which means that if you want full width coverage, you'd need a wider reflector.
Or you could do what token is doing which is to use the reflector limitation in an intelligent fashion and to take advantage of the lower light areas to put corals that have lower light requirements (softies, LPS, some zoas).
Spleen
Thank you! That is really great information for everyone.
erics3000
Active member
I agree. great info. I am planning on getting 2 250w pendants and ballast and have been trying to get some extra info. I think I am going to try and make my own reflectors. Just another area to save some dough and have some fun diy..
nano girl glad you are going with the 24 instead of the 18..
nano girl glad you are going with the 24 instead of the 18..
invincible569
New member
Thank you. Let me know if you have any questions.
invincible569
New member
I would love too.. but you would feel more rewarded if you handled it on your own. It's like raising a baby.. its yours and you put your time, money, effort, etc and you would appreciate it more.
Im sure you already knew that. But if you insist, send me some plane tickets.<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10353327#post10353327 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by invincible569
I would love too.. but you would feel more rewarded if you handled it on your own. It's like raising a baby.. its yours and you put your time, money, effort, etc and you would appreciate it more.
But even better than a baby is there is no child support payments and she is with you all the time!
NanoGurl
In Memoriam
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10353327#post10353327 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by invincible569
I would love too.. but you would feel more rewarded if you handled it on your own. It's like raising a baby.. its yours and you put your time, money, effort, etc and you would appreciate it more.
lol you got it! =)
Trigeek
Member
Just finished reading your thread!! :beer: I love hearing about ALL of your critters. Makes the thread very interesting. The tank is coming along great. Hope you eradicate those FW completely. The sixline should keep things under control once the population is decimated. I had a small outbreak of them and added a sixline immediately, before the explosion took place. The fish took care of business and I haven't had a problem since. I noticed them after adding a piece of coral. Now I dip everything before it goes into the tank.
I love your zoos. For some reason, I'm fascinated by zoos which is why I'm building mainly an LPS tank with lots of zoos.
Good job, great thread. Thanks for sharing everything.
I love your zoos. For some reason, I'm fascinated by zoos which is why I'm building mainly an LPS tank with lots of zoos.
Good job, great thread. Thanks for sharing everything.
- Status
Similar threads
