NanoGurl's 75g Reef Thread

[melev]

If you had a Tee in the line after the RO membrane and before the DI resin, you could let it run for 1 minute into a bucket or nearby sink, then take a sample of that water in your stolen McDonald's cup. Test it for TDS.

We need to know what the number is before the resin to see how well the membrane is working.

Anything under 10 TDS is fine. We like it lower, but compared to what is coming out of the tap, it's great. I change my filters out if it reaches 7, if you wanted a real-life comparison.

Currently, mine is actually 0. I installed a new membrane a couple of months ago, so TDS is 3 coming out of the RO membrane, and the DI takes out the rest to bring it down to 0.

 

[jcpatella]

On the left-hand side after the carbon filter, you could possibly put a tee - this would give you drinkable water (and also let you test the water before the resin).

 

[NanoGurl]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11539103#post11539103 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
If you had a Tee in the line after the RO membrane and before the DI resin, you could let it run for 1 minute into a bucket or nearby sink, then take a sample of that water in your stolen McDonald's cup. Test it for TDS.

We need to know what the number is before the resin to see how well the membrane is working.

Anything under 10 TDS is fine. We like it lower, but compared to what is coming out of the tap, it's great. I change my filters out if it reaches 7, if you wanted a real-life comparison.

Currently, mine is actually 0. I installed a new membrane a couple of months ago, so TDS is 3 coming out of the RO membrane, and the DI takes out the rest to bring it down to 0.

See... you're bragging.

Okay, that makes me feel better that it's under 7. Thanks for the info that helps a lot. I will see what I can do to get a reading tomorrow.

 

[NanoGurl]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11539146#post11539146 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jcpatella
On the left-hand side after the carbon filter, you could possibly put a tee - this would give you drinkable water (and also let you test the water before the resin).

I only drink Deer Park water =)

Thanks, I'll look to see if I can get clown to do that. I have no idea how to make a T.

 

[jcpatella]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11539203#post11539203 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by NanoGurl
I only drink Deer Park water =)

Thanks, I'll look to see if I can get clown to do that. I have no idea how to make a T.

Are you one of those!!!!???? :lol2: What do you do when you go on vacation!!!!

 

[melev]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11539203#post11539203 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by NanoGurl
I only drink Deer Park water =)

Thanks, I'll look to see if I can get clown to do that. I have no idea how to make a T.

This is how mine is done. The fitting in the center of the picture is called a Tee.

The left side is my RO system, the right side is the stand alone DI section. The tubing going down from the Tee goes to a ballvalve.

I use that ballvalve to collect one gallon of RO water at a time, which I then use to fill up a bunch of clean empty 20 oz bottles. Those bottles are stored in the fridge for when we want it later.

 

[Cuby2k]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11539061#post11539061 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by NanoGurl
Is that the membrane thing?

yeah, you have to take apart the white tube on top of your filter setup.

I gotta tell you though, that 2 ppm doesn't seem too bad. I was reading around 50 ppm before I changed my filters including DI and it dropped to about 10 and soon crept back to the 40's. After I replaced the RO membrane it dropped to 0 where it is "resting" right now.

 

[NanoGurl]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11539218#post11539218 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jcpatella
Are you one of those!!!!???? :lol2: What do you do when you go on vacation!!!!

Well since it's been six years since I went on vacation I don't even remember!

 

[NanoGurl]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11539695#post11539695 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
This is how mine is done. The fitting in the center of the picture is called a Tee.

The left side is my RO system, the right side is the stand alone DI section. The tubing going down from the Tee goes to a ballvalve.

I use that ballvalve to collect one gallon of RO water at a time, which I then use to fill up a bunch of clean empty 20 oz bottles. Those bottles are stored in the fridge for when we want it later.

Thanks, that photo helps. That looks pretty easy to do. Where can you get the T? Home Depot?

 

[NanoGurl]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11540505#post11540505 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Cuby2k
yeah, you have to take apart the white tube on top of your filter setup.

I gotta tell you though, that 2 ppm doesn't seem too bad. I was reading around 50 ppm before I changed my filters including DI and it dropped to about 10 and soon crept back to the 40's. After I replaced the RO membrane it dropped to 0 where it is "resting" right now.

Oh wow.. okay kewl... I thought it had to be 0 before. I guess I should be happy with 2

Thanks!

 

[GSMguy]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11539061#post11539061 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by NanoGurl
Is that the membrane thing?

yep replace you membrane and carbon filters and your DI resin will not have to do soo much work and will last longer.

 

[NanoGurl]

Yea i just replaced the carbon filters a few months ago.. but I don't think I've ever replaced the membrane thing.

 

[DrBDC]

I do the "T" on my RO output also before it goes to my DI. That line is run to my refrigerator for the ice and water.

You should get your DI output to 0. You need to dump that horizontal DI cartridge and get a vertical one. You can get those from a couple sponsors on here. I don't remember whether I bought from those filter guys or buckeye but it was about 35 bucks if I remember correctly. Melev probably has a hook up on them, I know he has the full units available (or he used to on his web site).

 

[bohlke]

I was thinking the same thing about the DI container, do you have the resin that changes color when its spent? Mine goes from blue to that brownish color, when its completely brown I change it but it seems to change color vertically. Typically my input to the DI is between 1-5ppm.

I run a T between my RO and DI, it goes to a 3G storage tank under the sink for drinking water.

 

[conorwynne]

The membrane is the most expensive part! DI resin is way cheaper, at least over here in Ireland.

I would not change the membrane without checking the TDS alue as all here have suggested. Waste of money!

Regards
Conor.

 

[melev]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11540636#post11540636 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by NanoGurl
Thanks, that photo helps. That looks pretty easy to do. Where can you get the T? Home Depot?

Yes, they are sold as SpeedFit fittings. Another name is John Guest fittings.

The nice thing about them is that you just cut the tubing and press it into the ends, tug slightly and you're done. The blue retaining clips pictured above make sure the tubing stays in place. Home Depot also sells 1/4" icemaker tubing in the same section.

Remove the retaining clip if you have it, then make sure the tubing is cut nice and cleanly (a kitchen knife will do it, or a utility knife), then press it into the collet firmly until it can't go in any further. Tug slightly to seat it. Done.

If you have to remove the tubing, press the collet with your fingernail so that it is tight against the fitting, and the tubing can be pulled out again. The collet is the thing that grips and releases.

 

[bower23]

I just bought a new RO/DI unit and I also bought an electronic tester. It has an input line and output line. Which you could put the input line before the unit or before the membrane. It's pretty cheap and is so easy. Turn it on and read it. I'll see if I can get a line for ya. Plus, I've always been told if you replace the membrane, replace the other filters at the same time. If not, the membrane will get dirty alot faster without the new filters in front of it.

http://cgi.ebay.com/DM-1-Inline-Dua...ageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem?_trksid=p1638.m118

 

[NanoGurl]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11541202#post11541202 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by DrBDC
You need to dump that horizontal DI cartridge and get a vertical one.

Why? What is the difference?

 

[NanoGurl]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11541630#post11541630 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by bohlke
I was thinking the same thing about the DI container, do you have the resin that changes color when its spent?

Yea, it's green when it's good and turns to brown/orange when it's spent. It seems to work it's way from the top to bottom as well.

I guess that's why you want a vertical one?

 

[NanoGurl]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11541817#post11541817 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by conorwynne
The membrane is the most expensive part! DI resin is way cheaper, at least over here in Ireland.

I would not change the membrane without checking the TDS alue as all here have suggested. Waste of money!

Regards
Conor.

I will try to test it later and see. Thanks!