NATSQT-Not Another Tank Setup Question Thread - 50g

nebraskareef

MFCEO
Premium Member
Hello All.

I've been planning out an 90% sps system for several weeks now and yesterday was the first real jump as far as progress goes- I got the tank. I guess we shall start w/ the equipment list.

50g 36x18x18
2x175w 10k
2x36" vho actinic
3x mj 900 w/ lutz "stream" mod
MJ 1200 return (I like 'em slow)
ER 5-2
2x100w heater (you never know in Nebraska!)
approx. 50lbs LR. I've got somwhere around 30lbs now, will be ordering another 20 in a few days.

Thats all I've got nailed down thus far. I'm wondering if I should also add an ASM G3 in addition to the ER. I plan to run barebottom, with a possibility of a little sand in front of the rock-if my flow will allow me. I was thinking about a Chauvet DJ timer as I know alot of folks have had good success w/ them. I don't think I'm quite ready for a CA reactor just yet, as I'm a noob to sps. I believe kalk should do me fine to get started, but complete automation would be nice.

anyone have any suggestions? Should I get the additional skimmer? Where are the glaring mistakes you see with my plan thus far?

Thanks for your input, I'd fail without it-

Daniel
 
you have the same tank i have and also the same lighting
i wouldnt put any sand in the front, with the flow you need the sand will get in the way. for calcium i use a diy kalkreactor and works great, deffinately a cheap alternative to a calcium reactor.
i think it might be better to make a closed loop, eliminates all the powerheads and i would think about a bigger return pump, with head it will only be pushing about 200gph
 
I did think about the closed loop, but energy is a concern to me. I may still add one, but as stands this tank is already going to be adding another $40 to my electric bill every month :p Not like it's alot or anything, but it's something that I like to keep in my mind. Another thing I like about the "stream" modded pumps is the wide flow, as opposed to jet from the returns.

as for the return, I don't want alot of water getting to the sump at once as I want my skimmers to have plenty of time with the docs

thanks for your suggestions.
 
a G3 is plenty by itself. I run a mj 1200 as my return with the overflow feeding the skimmer directly. If you buy the g3 I do the recirc mod or have the overflow empty into a small bucket with the sedra to concentrate the docs

You will be surprised how quickly powerheads will fill up this size tank. Go closed loop. bigger heaters
 
I've never run either of those skimmers, but if you want a useless opinion - go with the G3.

IMO, I'd go with less powerheads. Dunno about the flow off those modded ones - do like my seio, do like my tunze in my 58. IMO a lot is dependent on how you arrange your aquascape, and the flow interacts with that. You might be able to get away with less powerheads/flow [at least until frags grow out] ... or need more dependent on how that works.
I'd do MJ1200's for those at least ... so that you can run one less and get the same flow.

On the sump return - what are you running?
Given the BB method relies on getting waste to the skimmer for quick removal ... you do want the skimmer getting a couple hundred GPH access to the tank's water.

Seems like a pretty good setup :)
 
I was planning on running the 900's in tank, as opposed to the 1200's because they are alot more energy efficient than the 1200's. I'm looking into running a turbo sea 1090gph @ 80watts w/ a om unit. probably 4 returns on it. Then possibly a ph or two in the tank itself.

for the return, I was going to run the 1200-probably getting about 200gph on a good day, after loss, to feed the sump. You raise a good point about the rate though mark. Maybe faster IS better in this circumstance.

I don't know exactly what to do about the skimmer though. Do I sell the 5-2 and get the g4, or do I keep the 5-2 and add a G3, or do I leave everything as is and get a wave2k or CA reactor? I'm able to pretty much "get whatever" now because I got a huge return (huge to me anyway), so thats why I'm kinda "going nuts" IMO anyway. I might as well get whats good now, as opposed to saving up for it forever.

This is intense.

Thanks again,
Daniel
 
I'd put my 11w 6060 against one, any day :D

I'm sure they get a lot, but while much smaller in size [nicer to aquascape around] .... it's a much smaller outlet. Just my take - it seems like a great mod, but I'd wager a fair bit that we could tell a difference.

For the sump-return ... I guess with head/etc and a max flow of 295gph from the MJ1200 ... not the sort of `get detritus to skimmer' flow I run. Not saying you can't find a way to make it work ...
 
What would you suggest as the minimum return pump you would consider running on a tank of this size? Energy IS a concern to me. Not that I can't afford the tank, I'm just trying to keep monthly cost down to add corals! lol.

I'd like a stream, or 2, but I don't know about that price tag...

thanks again.
 
Is heat an issue? IMO, I've been happy running externals. Not the absolute cheapest, but reliable and don't seem to add as much heat to the tank as submersibles.

Hard to say, each has benefits.
 
As much as I hate to say it, I think I'm going to go w/ the quiet one 3000. 780gph @ 40w. I'm only drilling one drain on the tank, 1" so This should be able to max it out without issue. To be honest, I'd like to run no more than 400gph through the drain for sound/safety. Maybe the QO is the option. How much are you running to the sump/drain size on your 58? I'm going to have to drill the back on this one, with the external durso.

again, thanks.
 
Well, I'm about to bite the bullet and order most of the equipment for my setup. I think F&S is going to be the cheapest.

2 MJ 900's for stream mod - 29.98
2 36" Uri Actinics - 45.98
4 oz of aquastick - 7.99
2 pairs of standoffs - 9.99
1 150w stealth heater - 14.99
1 quiet one 3000 - 39.99
1 refractometer - 40.79
1 1" bulkhead - 7.19

$196.49

Now, I have not yet decided wether or not I should run a closed loop. What do you guys think? I would not want to drill all the loop returns in the tank itself, but instead do a manifold type system with it.

I'm hesitant to have 600gph from the return, if I was going to do a 1000gph closed loop.

also, Leaning towards a .5" ssb because I want to do a few clams.

any more input? What would you do? Make my mind up for me! Energy is a concern.

and I've still got to buy a new m57 ballast, 2 new 175w bulbs, and the g3. Wow, this is turning out to cost more than I had planned :eek1:

Thanks again guys,

Daniel
 
I would get a bigger heater. I have a 300w on my 30g, and it barely keeps up if the heat in the house goes off or a window is opened..

joe
 
I push about 500 gph through my overflow - IMO I wouldn't go that much higher through 1 1" opening. IMO, there's almost no reason to push that much through the sump [for skimming/heating] + it's just more noise.
 
I'm still deciding wether I should add 2 or not. I have a feeling with the lights and equipment I'm going to be close on temp anyways. The tank will be in a basement but I do not have A/C in the room.
 
i agree with joetbs, get atleast a 300 watt heater thats what i have. i think a closed loop is the way to go. get a 1000+gph true external pump and then an om unit. you wont need the maxijets then. also like MiddletownMark says 600 gph is too much for a 1'' bulkhead. On my sisters 40 gal we had a big problem with the tank level getting to high with about 500gph.
with lighting i would get a icecap ballast, i think they are the most energy efficient
sand might turn out to be a hassle to have flow without a sand storm. clams dont need sand and obviously it will defeat the purpose of going barebottom. you will have to angle the flow away from the sand and then detritus will settle.
 
will put my vote in for:

- only one skimmer needed here. Either are fine choices. Save the money on a second one and spend it on sea salt for extra water changes... you'll get more mileage out of the cash spent that way by far IMO

- the lighting is more than you need even for shallow sps corals... if you needed to be energy conscious, I'd readily knock those MHs down to 150 watts each and pass on the flourescents altogether unless you must have them for aesthetics in a dusk dawn effect... even then they are of little other value, and you could just use bluer MHs if you like that end of the spectrum so much and save the watts (presuming if a staggered light scheme is not needed - the dusk/dawn thang).

- A Tunze 6060 gets my vote for simplicity and energy efficiency here... all day long. Use one and little else will be needed (add a small PH or two only to tweak flow pattern and knock out any dead spots if/as needed)

FWIW :)
 
Well that settles in then, between Anth and Mark, We're going german baby!

as for the lighting, I'm not dead set on anything just yet, I have been considering 14k bulbs and not worrying about the actinic just yet. However, I had envisioned running my tank with a staggered lighting scheme, actinic, left, both halides, right, actinic, and I may just wait on the actinic vho's all together, Sell the 660 setup and use that money elsewhere.

So many decisions, Why didn't anyone tell me reef tanks are ulcer inducing?!?!?!?!
 
I would STRONGLY consider a 6000 instead of the 6060. IMO, the controllability is what makes a Tunze more than just an expensive powerhead. Nevermind in 36" - having the ability to turn it down [esp if sandbed] is worthwhile IMO.

I'm happy with mine - but upgrading it the instant I have that much extra $$ laying around.
 
Back
Top