Need advice on point-n-shoot, avoiding blurry pics.

[redfishsc]

My old camera never was sufficient (an old Nikon Coolpix 4600 4.0mp). But almost.


I'm thinking about getting a new one for general family use for Christmas, but since I'm a grad student and on a very low budget. I will also use this for taking the occasional pic of the reef or my planted tank as well.

I'm not really wanting to take macro shots of anything, but I would like to choose the most appropriate, affordable point-n-shoot. I want to be able to take less than 75 pics of my fish just to get 1 that looks barely intelligible.

I've been told that I need to look for something with the fastest shutter speed, but I really don't know, and they don't seem to show the shutter speed for most of the cameras I've looked at.

Can anyone offer me any suggestions? Again I'm not looking for the cheap miracle--- just an affordable improvement over my fossilized Nikon.

I need to stay around $125, give or take, which totally rules out an SLR.

 

[IPT]

first of, with that budget if you want something decent you'll probably want to look for something used. Second off I think you would benifit from reading a little more about the basics of Photography. Most, if not every camera out there is capable of shutter speeds anywhere from a few seconds up to 1/2000th of a second (and faster). Shutter speed goes hand and hand with the F Stop choosen and also the ISO (speed) setting of the "film". I think once you grasp the basics of photography better you'll be off to a much higher success rate of keepers no matter what camera you end up with.

 

[redfishsc]

There are some basics of photography I understand, but specifically what issues you are referring to, I do not know.

I'll explain the problem I'm having right now and, if you are willing, could point me in the direction of what I need to be researching.

My camera will take a decently crisp photo if the flash is on, but not if it's off. However I prefer flash off, and thus the dragged-out shutter speed of the "flash off" setting will end in a nasty blurred pic if anything whatsoever moves. My camera is 6 or 8 years old so I suppose it's just old technology.


I can take a good pic with this camera of a stationary object, but anything slightly moving will just be blurred if I have the flash off. I cannot find a setting that increases the shutter speed in the "flash off" setting.

Either way the camera is insufficient because now the autofocus isn't very effective.


Do any point-n-shoots have a manual focus?

 

[Reef Bass]

Yes, there are p&s cameras with manual focus. Some will allow full manual operation.

Autofocus has improved considerably in the past 5 years, as has shutterlag (time between pressing shutter release and pic is actually taken).

Of the many fully to semi auto modes available today, Tv or shutter priority might help your situation. One sets the shutterspeed and the camera does the best it can to set the aperature based on your chosen shutterspeed and ambient light. Or it may help you get a higher percentage of decent shots until you feel comfortable enough in your own abilities to go full manual.

If you'd like your tank pics to not be too blue, I'd also suggest a p&s that can shoot in RAW.

 

[redfishsc]

Good advice, thanks for the info Reef Bass!

 

[BlueCorn]

Shutter-lag, not shutter speed is likely what was mentioned to you. That's the delay that occurs between the time you press the button and the time the shutter opens. Most P&S cameras have enough lag that they're very difficult to use when shooting moving objects.

 

[IPT]

I think the main point, that you seem to grasp, is that your images are blurry because your shutter speeds are too slow. Hence, the flash adds light and allows you to use a faster shutter speed. That is what is required (fast shutter speeds) to capture a sharp image of a moving target, like a fish. Shutter lag will cause the fish to be in a different position in the frame vs where you wanted it to be, but it has no impact on the sharpness of an image.

So, what you want is: A - use a tripod. That will help elimnate any bluriness from unsteady hands. B - get a camera with good high ISO capabilities (like the Canon S-90, or 95, of the G series. The more "sensitive" the "film" the faster that shutter speed can be. C - get a camera with a wide aperture (like F2, or 2.8 for example). That will let more light in at any given moment and allow a faster shutter speed -to freeze the fish/motion.

I also agree that Apertaure mode is the best suited if your not comfortable with manual settings. Aperture mode is WAY better than just using P (program, or auto).

 

[redfishsc]

I think the main point, that you seem to grasp, is that your images are blurry because your shutter speeds are too slow. Hence, the flash adds light and allows you to use a faster shutter speed. That is what is required (fast shutter speeds) to capture a sharp image of a moving target, like a fish. Shutter lag will cause the fish to be in a different position in the frame vs where you wanted it to be, but it has no impact on the sharpness of an image.

YES! This is exactly what I was talking about. I do appreciate everyone's help talking about the lag, but the issue is the shutter speed for sure. It's just too slow when the flash is off. No matter how steady I am (tripod or not), if the fish, corals, or plants move at all, I get blurry images.

I'm hoping newer p&s cameras have a way you can adjust it. My old one does not.

So, what you want is: A - use a tripod. That will help elimnate any bluriness from unsteady hands.

I do use a tripod for my woodworking when I take "album" quality pics. Big help. Can't use a tripod easily when taking pics of a fish that's floundering around in the tank though....

B - get a camera with good high ISO capabilities (like the Canon S-90, or 95, of the G series. The more "sensitive" the "film" the faster that shutter speed can be. C - get a camera with a wide aperture (like F2, or 2.8 for example). That will let more light in at any given moment and allow a faster shutter speed -to freeze the fish/motion. I also agree that Apertaure mode is the best suited if your not comfortable with manual settings. Aperture mode is WAY better than just using P (program, or auto).

This is precisely the kind of info i was looking for. Thanks!

 

[Reef Bass]

A tip for shooting moving fish in a tank with a tripod. Observe the fish a bit and you will often notice a cyclic behavior, where it swims around in a pattern or swims to a spot, turns and swims the other way. Set up your camera on the tripod focused on that spot and when the fish swims into view, take the picture. A whole lot easier than chasing the fish around the tank, which often just freaks the fish, causing it to swim faster, stir up more detritus, etc.

Some fish are diva camera hogs. My purple tang used to swim up to the lens and block the macro shot I was working on all the freakin time. It was probably being territorial guarding its realm from the long black lens pointing at it.

 

[Misled]

Your other thought may be to shoot an area then crop the section with the fish the way you want it. I don't know if you can get a remote shutter release for your camera, but that would help also. I get annoyed when shooting with the wife's P&S because of the lag, but it's consistent, so try to work it into your shot, and as Reef Bass said, watch the swimming paterns.