need advice on some equipment...

ren501

New member
OK folks here i go again with some more questions:).....
first off iam gonna let you guys and gals do the talking, im just gonna listen... what ive been looking for is an ATO system, and a wavemaker. the ATO is the most important though. ive seen a couple of different types. what are your thoughts on the ones that hook directly to the ro system?? i would like pros and cons of all types. also if would be easier just to do a DIY type then any info would be great, or if someone on here makes em let me know:).... as for the wavemaker, im lost. any suggestions would be appreciated. i have 4 koralias, 1-#4,1-#1,and 2-#3's. only a #3 and #4 are hooked up right now. im getting decent flow from those 2 and my return pump so far( but what do i know, maybe someone can come take a look and give me some tips and stuff:) ) so a wave maker is still and iffy option. but still researching. so any help and info would be appreciated.... Ren
 
I have a used tsunami wavemaker that can control 4 pumps with a night sensor that will turn off 2 pumps at lights out. you can have it for $50.
 
Do not get an ATO that uses floats. Eventually it will fail. Get an ATO that you can adjust to match your evaporation rate. Less chance of disaster......
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11892132#post11892132 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by canar
Do not get an ATO that uses floats. Eventually it will fail. Get an ATO that you can adjust to match your evaporation rate. Less chance of disaster......

I totally agree. Look into a great peristaltic pump that you can adjust. I recommend this pump:

http://innovativeaquatics.com/
 
My ATO goes directly from the RO to my tank.

It consists of a 40 dollar solenoid valve that you can buy here http://www.thefilterguys.biz/top-off_controller.htm...

I just hooked up the solenoid to a timer and it runs the same amount of time every day.. This takes a little tweaking depending on your system and it will need to be checked every once in a while.... However, I've never heard of a timer getting stuck on (I'm sure it can happen). I recommend a mechanical timer because its way less likely to fail than a digital timer.. Furthermore, in the event of a power outtage during the time while the valve is open it will automatically close... Thats how its built..... 40 bucks and it's pretty damn reliable... If you want to build an ATO that is near impossible to fail you will need 4 float valves and 4 solenoids and a bunch of money to waste
 
I prefer a diaphragm dosing pump for constant top off, also you can put it inline w/ a kalk reactor for constant dosing too. I prefer it over a peristaltic pump b/c you don't ever need to replace any tubing. The thing will run for 24/7/365 for years and be fine, only need to adjust for the seasonal evaporation rate.

http://www.championlighting.com/pro...stseller&xid=0ffac990f47468e6da981116ae2b4fed

What ever you decide to do do not hook up your ATO directly to RO unit. Otherwise you'll get tds creep.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11892132#post11892132 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by canar
Do not get an ATO that uses floats. Eventually it will fail. Get an ATO that you can adjust to match your evaporation rate. Less chance of disaster......

Really? I have been running mine for over 3 years without a problem. The float switch does need to be cleaned every so often but I have yet to have one fail.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11892132#post11892132 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by canar
Do not get an ATO that uses floats. Eventually it will fail. Get an ATO that you can adjust to match your evaporation rate. Less chance of disaster......

I agree! A good variable speed dosing pump that can be dialed in to match evap. I would never hook my RO directly to my sump. Some people do it with success, but I have also seen switches fail. With an endless supply of RO, Its possible to have a fresh water tank in short time.
 
I connect mine directly to my R.O. unit as well. I use an air pressure controlled valve, with a float as a back up in case of failure. I also use an R.O. that is pretty small. I figure it fills it a bit slower, so I would have a third chance to catch it if a multiple failure does occur.

Chris
 
Dude you just jinxed yourself!

I have not only had 2 different floats stick but I have seen the threads about killing the salinity or dumping a butload of kalk into a system because of the failure.

The one float I had stick was not the actual float piece but the piece inside that you could not even clean. The float assembly was 2 inches under the water. The float was up. The water was still coming out.

That happened to me with this unit Link

I was of the same midset as you until it happened to me twice. I have floats on my RODI. They have been working for almost 2 years without a failure. When you put the money into the tank that we do why leave anything out there that "MIGHT" fail??

Ted

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11893651#post11893651 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jjjimmy
Really? I have been running mine for over 3 years without a problem. The float switch does need to be cleaned every so often but I have yet to have one fail.
 
I have had float valves stick open, dropping my salt from 1.025 to 1.014. :eek1: Since it was cold water, temp dropped from 82 to 62. Not good for an sps tank... :sad1:
 
How stable is your evap. though? Do you need to constantly check your lvl and salinity to make sure your pump is keeping it steady?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11894971#post11894971 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ~ChrisB~
How stable is your evap. though? Do you need to constantly check your lvl and salinity to make sure your pump is keeping it steady?

The only time I need to adjust it is if I make a change in the tank that effects evap. For instance.

When my sump fan burned out my evap went down from 45 liters a day to 41 liters a day.

When I added more lights my evap went up from 41 liters a day to 51 liters a day.

Other then that maybe it is not 100% exact and if I left it alone for a month it would be off by a few inches in the sump. Doing weekly water changes makes it hard to leave it alone for that long though...


Ted
 
I think it would drive me crazy just thinking of the variables. I'm happy with mine, and it makes me feel safe, and comfy.
 
the only time that there are variables (other than seasonal)are when you do something to your tank that would change evap, such as adding/removing a fan.
 
Pumps wear to though, so it the amount of the dose always 100%? I can see if it is a peristalic pump I guess being pretty steady.

Tank temp, air temp, humidity, fans, all of these can effect your evap. I guess Im just crazy.
 
Of course your crazy.. Just like the rest of us that have been in this hobby awhile :D..

I use both peristaltic and diaphragms. Both keep my rates steady. Yes humidity, and air temp can affect, but over the coarse of a few days they all usually even out. During those few days the salinity may vary, but ever so slightly that you would never notice. When the season change and my windows are open and the fans are on longer for cooling purposes, I do have to adjust , but other than that, Its pretty much a set and forget operation.

Many people do use the float switch methout without them failing, but as Ted pointed out, I wouldnt risk it. Especially after seeing the float switch method fail on ocassion. Yes a rare ocassion, but with the investments we reefers have... As always.. Many ways to do this hobby, and they can all work.
 
I know, we are all crazy. Telling you guys though, air pressure sensors are where it's at. No float, no pumps. If it fails, it fails off.


Crazy Crazy.
 
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