Need help making a sump out of my 10G glass tank

G

gabrito

New member
I want to convert my 55 G FW into a SW and use my 10G SW as a sump. But I would like to avoid having to drill my sump. Does anyone hav any suggestions on how to go about it? I am planning on having there the skimmer, the heater and some refugium with algae for extra filtration.

1-Do i really need to setup chambers in the sump?
2-If yes, what do i put in each chamber?
3-do i need some kind of prefilter on the return pump?
4-how many GPH should the return pump be?
5-when water goes back to the display tank, should i set up some kind of plumbing and use that to create circulation or do i need separate pumps for that purpose?

thanks!!
 
Without drilling, I don't see how you can have room for all three zones, at least not without some serious topoff/evap issues (running the pump dry daily unless you had an ATO installed). The return section of the sump is where you see your evap loss and if you divide a 10 gallon into 3 zones you just don't have the room to do it effectively. I would recommend going with 2 10 gallon tanks drilled to give you the room you need, or if you have room under the 55 go with a 20 gallon long.
 
To answer these questions...

1-Do i really need to setup chambers in the sump? Yes, this will help keep micro bubbles to a minimum and keep the refugium seperated and macro algea from spreading...
2-If yes, what do i put in each chamber? 3 chamber method can be done a number of combo's but I would say chamber 1 skimmer and heater, chamber 2 return pump with a T feeding chamber 3 for a refugium. This will allow you to control the amount of flow through your refugium.
3-do i need some kind of prefilter on the return pump?
Personal preference, I avoid all types of machanical filters on my tanks, I feel they are possible nitrate factories if not changed/cleaned regularly.
4-how many GPH should the return pump be?
Roughly 10-20x the tank volume, so 55g would be 550 to 1100 gph.
5-when water goes back to the display tank, should i set up some kind of plumbing and use that to create circulation or do i need separate pumps for that purpose?
Either way is fine depending on how much flow you need... If you need high flow you will need additional pumps, if you need low-med flow the return could be enough if plumbed right.

Hope this helps, please ask anything that's still not clear...
 
Drilling a 10g is EASY.. and if you break it you can replace it for $9 or less.

However I have a 10g non-drilled for a sump/refuge. I have a 4x8 area for my overflow with 3 baffles, a 4xfull short length I think 10" for my return with a 4x6 L in it for my return with 4 baffles. I don't notice "that" much evap, I have a 1.5 gallon ATO and it only needs filled once every 1-2 weeks. I guess I have about 6 gallons as a sump/refuge. I have the skimmer in their and some prolifera and cheatomorpha with no problem.

It basically looks like this:
__________
| |.........| |
| L_.......|_|
|__|______|
(ignore the dots, they are their for spacing)

My overflow is on the short corner of the L for the return with 4 baffles, ouou (that last u sucks and leaves the top of the return stagnant). The tank return has 3 baffels in it ouo. My skimmer fits in the back section of the sump/refuge and I keep macro in the front section. I wish I had a wall between them though, or something because the macro is going to grow into/around/on the skimmer at some point and mess it up unless I keep it really clean.

But I only use a quite1 1200 as my pump (seahorse tank so I have very low flow). When I used a quite1 4000 testing for a few days I lost about 1/2 gallon a day or more.
 
Hi gabrito -

I use a non-drilled 10 gal under my 50 as a sump, I've got my skimmer, heater and return pump in there. The way I have it there's not quite enough room for a real fuge area, but I do have some chunks of live rock that have a fair population of pods and such:

1283110-gallon-sump.jpg


I went an easier route than installing baffles: Went to Target and found a nice sized plastic container that just fit inside about half the tank (it was a wastebasket, I think), and cut it down to just higher than the height I wanted for my skimmer water level. Then I cut the notch at the top back edge, which sets the water level (some trial and error there). Since the water drains near the back glass most of the bubbles are gone by the time it reaches the return pump. I have my overflow drain directly into the container so the water hits my skimmer directly, which gives the skimmer a chance to grab a lot of gunk before it spreads around the sump.

I am in the camp that will recommend much lower flow rates through the sump, like maybe 3 to 5 times your display volume. This allows the use of a smaller, more efficient return pump (e.g. could probably get away with a MaxiJet 900 or 1200) and is plenty to get enough surface skimming through the overflow. You willl still need more flow inside the display tank than that, so you can look into powerheads or another pump on a closed loop.


Larry
 
Well, I finally did it. I put the sump together. I decided to go with the LR rubble --->refugium----->return setup.

I set up a return line to my refugium just in case my powerhead was to powerful (which it was). I'm still doing adjustments so that everything runs smooth.

After doing some research i also decided to go with Miracle Mud in my refugium but i have one concern now.

When I put the Mud in, wouldn't it be blown away by the return line i have going in the refugium? Any ideas?
 
I built a 10 gal sump for my 20 reef. I installed a 3 baffel bubble trap in the drain section. The baffel that seperates the return pump from the fuge has a row of 1/4 holes 6 inches up to allow some of the fuge water to be used as part of the return reservoir. The return line has a T and a valve plumbed over to the fuge for circulation. I use a hang on skimmer.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7490517#post7490517 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Pat_13
Maybe add a tall container with the mud in it so it is not stired up.
Click to expand...

I like the idea I think that'll work. But either way I think i'm gonna put a less powerful pump. Right now i have a Mag 7 and i have to open the return valve almost all the way. If i close it all the way the overflow gets too noisy.
 
Last edited:
Nice job!
I'm in the same boat. I'm getting ready to build my very first sump/refugium. I'm also planning to put a T like u did for the return to the refugium. You mentioned that the the mag 7 is too powerful..humm I'm wondering why your overflow makes noise when u close the valve. Let's say if you didn't have the valve, then techinically it would be in a close position right? If so, then your overflow would make the same noise? That sucks.
 
yeah, it does, i don't know how to fix it. i thought that white tube in the middle was a silencer. I'll try without it and see what happens.
 
subscibed.... trying to do a 20h sump/refuge myself.

Why don't you consider putting the extra pipe in the spot where the baffles start for the return, that why you elimnate the problem with the mud. As for the return pump, put another ball valve directly on top of where the return starts and slow it down from there?
 
yeah, it does, i don't know how to fix it. i thought that white tube in the middle was a silencer. I'll try without it and see what happens.
Click to expand...

The white tube is just a drain, you'll get a lot of gurgling noise from that. Search around for information about "durso" or "stockman" standpipes, these are designed to fit in your overflow box and silence the noise. There are tons of threads on RC about them.


Larry
 
gabrito I am setting up a sump very similar to the one you did. How tall are your baffles? What size spacing did you use for the seperate compartments? I was thinking 4in. for the intake,8 in. for fuge and 8 in. for return. Any suggestions?
 
my baffles are 8 inches tall, i actually had to cut them because the water level was too high (tried it on the bathtub first). The other mistake was that my return section is a little small. Just mak sure you leave enough room for the pump and equipment. Also, I found very hard to glue the baffles that are 1 inch apart. I guess you need to use a glue applicator.

On another note I put the prefilter sponge on the overflow box and the gurgle stoped!! Now I just gotta solve the splashing sound I get when the pump is at full power. The thing is that the holes on the intake pipe are too low (I bought it used). I don't know if I should get a new pipe and make holes on it or if I should tape the holes and make new ones higher. Any suggestions???
 
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