Need help! Tank won't cycle.

DeepBlueZoas

New member
So this is going to be a long post so I'm going to try to include as much information as possible because now I'm at a loss and don't know where to go from here so please any insight is greatly appreciated.

System is roughly 500 gallons with six tanks each year which have two dividers making it 18 separate cubicles the system has a 10 ft glass sump and 58 gallon square sump for moving biomedia.

Each cubicle has their own aeration and water flow supplied by Sweetwater air pump and an iwaki 100 rlt. Tank also has a tradewinds one horse chiller keeping tank at 76 to 77 degrees supplied by a jebao DCT 12000.

I have about 5 gallons worth of seachem pond matrix in media bags in the glass sump as well as a small bag of ceramic ring bio media if 58 gal tub is filled with about a half cubic foot of k1 like moving media that is constantly tumbling. This is a good overview of what the tank it's set up like now go into what was added to the tank to do the fishless cycle.

I started with natural sea water from the ocean collected on an incoming tide with very clear water at about six feet below the surface.hi then sterilize the water with 5 ml of 6% bleach per liter of water then dechlorinated with pure sodium thiosulfate at 10% grams sodium thiosulfate per milliliter of bleach. I also added a little more than called for of this sodium thiosulfate to ensure there is zero chlorine left.

I then added enough ammonium chloride to get the ammonia level .5 parts per million. And then begin adding seachem stability at about double the dose for about 4 days adding bicarb to keep alkalinity up. I am using the API test kit and cross-referenced it with known ammonia levels in to ensure accurate readings.

The first seven days ammonia stayed at 0.5 parts per million nitrite and nitrate still undetectable.

Then I decided to get Fritz turbostart 900 I haven't added that at the recommended dose for 3 days and immediately the next day started registering nitrite.

7 days after adding turbo start and continually adding bicarb to keep alkalinity up the ammonia was zero and now the nitrite was 5 parts per million and nitrate is still 0 at 2 weeks in. I talked to the guys at Fritz to see why the nitrite wasn't cycling over to nitrate they thought it might be in nutrient deficiency so I added phosphates and 2 tablespoons of pellets. Then added another dose of 600ml of turbo start.

After adding the pellets ammonia went back up to 0.25 and the nitrite stayed at 5 parts per million. at this point I checked the TDS reading on my rodi water which ran 10 parts per million so I added some sodium thiosulfate to each jug of top off water from then on and added a little bit to the system. Since then I now have new filters and reading is 0 TDS.

after one more week the nitrates finally started showing up and small numbers about 5 part per million but the nitrites are still at toxic levels of 5 parts per million with no sign of going down.

6 days after adding the pellets and no sign of any change I started doing partial water changes around 30% with natural seawater without sterilizing this time filtered with 100 micron sock. I have now done 4 water changes and ammonia is finally 0 but the nitrites are still at toxic levels around 5 to 2 parts per million and no sign of changing.

PH has been held at 8 to 8.2 for the entire duration and the sea water have tested and always reads out 0 ammonia 0 nitrite 0 nitrate.

Total time elapsed since cycle was started is 28 days. was told that turbo start would cycle out three parts per million ammonia six times the amount in my system and cycle the nitrite as well at the longest 5 days. I'm really at a loss and don't know what to do I've already spent close to $300 on this bacteria and it doesn't seem to be doing anything for the nitrites. There's anything you guys think I missed or didn't include in the information in this post let me know.
 
Skip all those things & buy 2 shrimp @ the supermarket.
Put them in the sump & wait, testing every so often.
That should do it, then pull the shrimp.
 
Skip all those things & buy 2 shrimp @ the supermarket.
Put them in the sump & wait, testing every so often.
That should do it, then pull the shrimp.

That would help it overcome the high nitrites? Wouldn't adding a shrimp just raise the ammonia levels then that might get converted but then that's just going to make the nitrite even higher?

Can't really skip all those things I already did all of that.
 
That's an extremely complicated system! So it will be a bit difficult for us to trace out exactly what's wrong, but here are a few observations.

Firstly, you really, really do not need the bacterial product. In fact, you couldn't keep a seeding of nitrosomonas and nitrobacter out of your system even if you wanted to. So yeah, adding an organic source like a couple of shrimp or some fish food will be more than enough.

Secondly, stop dosing sodium thiosulfite. In order to be successful with this system, presuming that you intend to keep corals and not just fish, you will have to get an RODI system for top-offs, and for mixing saltwater in case you decide hauling buckets from the ocean is inconvenient and risky (it is, since by definition it's in-shore waters). The $300 spent on Fritz products would've been better spent on an efficient RODI.

Sulfites are somewhat toxic to bacteria, and having a fair amount of this circulating around in your system isn't helping you. It will, of course, get oxidized over time to harmless sulfates, so you don't need to change water to remove it from the system, but I wouldn't add any more.

Finally, and this is a guess based on your description, you may just not have enough substrate in the system to harbor a decent amount of denitrifying bacteria (ammonia, btw, will also get oxidized over time to nitrite abiotically by the action of the aeration/circulation and light exposure). That may be especially true if the primary denitrification substrate is constantly tumbling, which will interfere with forming a bacterial film. I'd consider adding a piece of dry aragonite rock to each of the partitioned segments, or re-think your central tub of "k1" (not sure what that actually is) and replace it with dry rock. Moreover, realize that half of a cubic foot of media plus a small bag of ceramic rings isn't a whole lot of surface area for bacteria to colonize. It's an opinion, of course, but I think most of us would guess that wouldn't be nearly enough for a 500 gallon system unless the individual tanks also had aragonite sand or aragonite rock.
 
If I understand correctly, the filter is producing 0 ppm water now. How long has the filter been fixed?

When you say you added pellets, those are fish food? If so, I don't think that there's much you can do but wait. The nitrite level might be high enough to inhibit the growth of the bacteria that eat it. I think that might be possible with nitrite; it does happen with ammonia. If so, some large water changes would help, but they are costly and time-consuming.
 
I'd consider adding a piece of dry aragonite rock to each of the partitioned segments, or re-think your central tub of "k1" (not sure what that actually is) and replace it with dry rock. Moreover, realize that half of a cubic foot of media plus a small bag of ceramic rings isn't a whole lot of surface area for bacteria to colonize. It's an opinion, of course, but I think most of us would guess that wouldn't be nearly enough for a 500 gallon system unless the individual tanks also had aragonite sand or aragonite rock.

Thanks that's a good idea I just added 20lbs of live sand to one of the tanks going to try to source some dry rock now too. I also have a 5 gallon bucket full of seachem pond matrix in the sump as bio media.
 
If I understand correctly, the filter is producing 0 ppm water now. How long has the filter been fixed?

When you say you added pellets, those are fish food? If so, I don't think that there's much you can do but wait. The nitrite level might be high enough to inhibit the growth of the bacteria that eat it. I think that might be possible with nitrite; it does happen with ammonia. If so, some large water changes would help, but they are costly and time-consuming.

The filter has been fixed for the last week or so. Yeah the pellets were fish food. I let them break down in the filter sock then removed it. If that is true that nitrite can inhibit the growth of the bacteria I think that might be what's going on because as soon as it hit that 5 part per million everything kind of stopped and it could have been even higher concentrations in that because that's as high as the kit goes.
 
Okay, well, the next step is up to you. Waiting will be fine, although it might be a long wait. That's a fair amount of nitrite. Water changes will cost a lot, though, and there's no chemical (of which I'm aware) that will bind nitrite the way that products bind ammonia, although some claim to do so.
 
Wow...just wow..

+1^

Nitrite oxidizer are not inhibited by 500 ppm let alone 5 ppm. I would add a lot more dry rock and some trace elements especially molybdenum as NSW is generally low in these required elements for chemolithotrophs to grow properly. Good luck just be patient. Ron
 
+1^

Nitrite oxidizer are not inhibited by 500 ppm let alone 5 ppm. I would add a lot more dry rock and some trace elements especially molybdenum as NSW is generally low in these required elements for chemolithotrophs to grow properly. Good luck just be patient. Ron

Okay thanks for your help everyone I really appreciate it I am going to get 160-200lbs of dry rock and about 120lbs of live sand tomorrow hopefully this will help it move along. Is there a product that you recommend or know of for adding molybdenum to the system? I am not familiar with that element and would know what to get.
 
If you're going to add trace elements (I typically don't), it's probably best to go with an all-in-one product like Two Little Fishies SeaElements.

But - you haven't told us what you intend to keep in this system. If it's fish-only, I wouldn't worry about adding trace elements, since fish typically get all that they need from the food that you feed them.
 
I'm not aware of any data that indicate trace element dosing is needed for a tank to cycle. I'd guess that the vast majority of tanks never get trace elements during the cycle, if at all.
 
I'm not aware of any data that indicate trace element dosing is needed for a tank to cycle. I'd guess that the vast majority of tanks never get trace elements during the cycle, if at all.

I was referring to NSW which could be depleted in especially molybdenum an essential trace element necessary for nitrification. I also assumed that most individuals use a salt mix that contains ample trace elements. Otherwise I agree that additional trace elements are unnecessary and have cycled many aquariums without them. I have never used them except in the lab in chemostats.
 
Back
Top