Need help with selection of new fish!

paulhaan

New member
2.5 months ago I lost almost all my fish from ich. Turns out I had stray voltage, plus I had soured sand. I have since replaced all my sand, added a titanium ground probe, and have grounded source for all my aquarium power. I don't believe my chemistry was ever out of check and am HOPING those were the factors that caused the ich. My stray voltage would peak up to 20 volts. The reading is now 0 all the time.

prior to the ich, my tank fishes consisted of:

Powder Blue tang
Foxface
six-line wrasse
mandarin
3 clowns


survived were:
4 blue/green chromis
spotted cardinal
algae blenny

1 month ago I added 2 firefish


Here is what i would like to add:
Flame Angel
Foxface
2 clowns (probably false perculas)
mandarin
six-line wrasse
lyretail anthias

I would also like a Tang again, but not sure which one. I know that a yellow tang, a kole yellow eye tang,or a White Tail Bristletooth Tang would be best suited for a 75G, but I love a blue tang or a powder blue tang. I would like to have a 125-180 gal system in a year or two to put that in perspective.



I'd appreciate some input on this, as I want to put an order into liveaquaria in a day or two
 
First, stray voltage does not cause ich. A single celled protist does. If your tank has not had a 6 weeks+ fallow period then the protist is still in your tank.

I would suggest looking at the "tang tank size" thread that is stickied here
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1946079

I would rethink a six-line wrasse. They get aggressive and can harrass other fish to death, literally. Additionally, they will easily outcompete a mandarin for food.

This will help inform you of suggested tank sizes for common tangs. Also, I suggest that you plan your livestock based on the tank you currently have and not one you may have in the future.

Good luck.
 
sorry, by causing ich, I meant susceptibility due to stress and weakening the fishes' immune system.

I actually love my six-line before and my tank has a ton of copepods which were breeding in the fuge
 
Last edited:
ICH can live with out a host for 30days or so so i would make sure none of your other fish get it. You need a QT-/hospital tank, this will allow you to watch your fish. And for tangs id go with a yellow most fitted, clown are good to.
 
ICH can live with out a host for 30days or so so i would make sure none of your other fish get it. You need a QT-/hospital tank, this will allow you to watch your fish. And for tangs id go with a yellow most fitted, clown are good to.

Actually, the suggested fallow period for causing ich to die out in a tank is 9 weeks. Please read the ich stickies on the top of this forum found here. . Unless you understand the life cycle of this parasite, you will be unable to provide appropriate treatment.
 
I haven't seen any signs of ich since Christmas. I now have a quarantine tank setup for new/sick fish


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I think you'e missing something here. Even if your remaining fish don't have spots, you cannot say your tank is ich-free unless it has remained fallow for 9 weeks. As you've seen, ich can stay hidden in a tank for a long time until some stressful event (heater breaks, power outage, introducing a new tank member) upsets things. Then it comes back with a vengeance. I speak from experience.

Before you add new fish, take your existing fish out and teat them, then leave them in the hospital tank for 9 weeks. Then QT all newcomers.
 
Back
Top