Need input on water changes!

svb57

New member
I am in the process of building a system that will have the following:
300g and 125g Main tanks
130g refugium
90g sump
25g Remote deep sand bed

What I want to know is how much of a water change, how often should i do? Could i do 5% weekly (approx 30g) or would I better off doing a 10% monthly (60g)?

I want to set up a semiautomatic system of doing water changes and need to size containers correctly.

Any input would be great!!!

Thanks
Jim Mc
 
Everyone has different volumes and frequencies they prefer. Looking at your set up, you could mix up a 60gal batch once a month but change 30 gal every two weeks. Thats what I would probably do if I had that system. Then see how it goes.
 
I would do 10% 3-4 weeks, but like Billy said everyone has their own preference......It's also depends on your bio-load and filtration
 
I would shoot for either 10% every 2 weeks or 20% once a month. With that large of a system it will be much easier to maintain stability. Either way you are changing the same amount and which way to go would depend on how your corals react to either.
 
hansfrans,

Not easy to establish. I plan on having well stocked in regards to things other then fish. The fish load will bne very small.

After hearing back from numerous people I plan on setting it up so I do automatic water changes of 30% a week with the ability to do greater ones in needed in future.

Thanks
Jim Mc
 
Jim--Glad to hear your tanks are coming along. Before I moved I had a 180 & 150 plumbed with a common sump/refug. I did a 30gal H2O change once per month.

There is a good article with the math behind the benefits that Randy JFarley published a ways back. It compared daily/weekly/monthly water changes and how it affected the % of water changed. Maybe you can find it with a search.

Automated systems are the key. The second important factor is to have the facilities to perform a large water change in case of an emergency.

So are far as sizing the eqp, keep that in mind. Oversizing the water change or RO top-off tank can be very helpful.
 
My question to you would be what are you trying to cause or prevent with your water changes?

Once you achieve optimum water levels, if you are trying to maintain your levels at near optimum levels without addition of additives, it is better to automate and perform daily/continuous small water changes. The overall stability of calcium/magnesium, etc. will remain at approximately the same levels without any additives.

If you are trying to adjust or levels or eliminate chemistry issues (e.g. high nitrate levels), then it is better to do a large water change once and repeat in a week. This needs to be maintained until the tank is stable, then you can go to the above method of continuous small water changes.

Jim - I run a 450 gallon system similar to the volume you will have, but all in one tank and sump. I perform water changes of 80 gallons, usually every two to three weeks. However, in the near future I will be switching to a daily automated makeup of water via a Litermeter III.

I agree with Aurora Dave on the automation being the key. If it is easier, you will continue to do it. Automation is difficult to setup, but better in the long term.

I setup my system currently to mix, drain, and add water all via the same pump (Blueline 70HD) with manifolds for inlet and discharge. I utilize a 100 gallon poly tank for my fresh saltwater container and a 50 gallon poly tank for automated RO/DI makeup.

HTH

Bryan
 
I have a further question then. How long can I keep fresh salt water? If I keep a 150g poly tank in garage with pump and heater, how long would it stay good?

Thanks
Jim Mc
 
I've heard the same thing that Doug said. I'd just worry about contaminants. I hope you have some sort of top for that 150 poly, as anything that you can smell is airborne and therefore will get into your water. I've heard stories of people cleaning the floor under their aquarium with standard household cleaners and consequently having livestock die as a result even though the cleaner did not come into contact with the aquarium or the water.

Hey, if anyone finds the article that AuroraDave mentioned, please post a link. Sounds very interesting.
 
Back
Top